Hello everyone
First off, I would like to thank everyone on this site for all the useful forums.
I have a couple of issues that may be a protential problem and would like to get some advice/help on.
1) I am approaching 95K on my 2005 Cooper S and I am getting very concerned about my SC. I have a 15% reduction pulley on and lately when I put my ear to the intercooler outlet I hear a strange (like a bearing going out) noise echoing through it. Its not loud, you wouldnt hear it unless you put your ear to it. I have read all the forums about the self oiling system within the SC and wonder if there is a way I can maintenace, check it. Is this something to be concerned about?
2) My SC pulley damper is starting to leak. Can I replace just the dampener or do I have to replace the whole pricey pulley?
3) I am pretty sure my rear main oil seal is starting to leak. What all has to be removed and done to get to the rear main. Goes the sub-frame with ps rack have to be removed? transaxles etc...and is it a real pita to do?

 

1) From all accounts, if anything it's the water pump PTO. To flush/refill/reseal, you need to remove the SC.
2) I have yet to hear of a replacement damper
3) IDK

 

As far as the rear-main seal, it's behind the flywheel, so you basically have to do a clutch job. If all your doing is that then you can remove the subframe/axles/tranny/clutch and probably the radiator just to make it easier.

Tensioner is pretty easy at that point too as you can easily support the engine and move it around.

And if you take the radiator off you have pretty easy access to the front-side of the block, where the super charger is.

All the work could probably be done over one long weekend if you have everything you need. The problem is all the broken bolts, or other things you will find along the way.

Also I hear the rear-main is a pain in the butt to get out. Do a search on here as somebody was mentioning a drill and drywall screws to make it easier.

Rockauto has the tensioner for pretty cheap.

 

Be proactive on the supercharger fluid and change it. Yes it is a lot of work to remove, but doing it in you own time rather than waiting for failure costs a whole lot less. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...02-post71.html You will be able to peer into the fill hole on the waterpump drive side to view possible damage, or if no fluid escapes, that's a definite sign of damage.

There is no strut replacement for the tensioner damper.

Show us a photo of the leak. Here's what needs to be done to access the rear main seal.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-overview.html