Tensioner is out, it's jamed closed, so there is my problem. I'm debating weather or not to pull the valve cover just to check all the other bits.

 

I decided to pull the cover, it's a pretty easy job, and I didnt want to chance anything else being broke. All is good under there and shockingly clean for having nearly 80,000 miles! I have Royal purple to thank for that one.

Time to make some calls and get this tiny little POS replaced.

 

That wasnt it. I just got the whole job done, started it up and the loud metalic rattle is still there. I need some help finding out what it is, fast.
Here's all the symptoms, and what I have already checked:

Its a loud metallic rattle from the front of the motor, with a slight vibration felt at the oil cooler lines.

Oil pressure is normal, 1st line on the chrono pack gauge at idle, and rises to about 60 psi when you rev the engine.

I pulled the belt off and all the pulleys feel solid and spin freely.

The S/C belt tensioner is new and holds plenty of tension.

I just replaced the timing chain tensioner, had the valve cover off, and everything looked great. All of the rocker arms felt solid, and the chain and guides are good.

Nothing shows up on the data logs to indicate a spun bearing, or anything wrong with the internals. KNOCK levels are lower than ever.

The only thing I can think of is the oil pump broke, but I have never seen a broken oil pump make normal pressure.
Is there anything else in the front of the engine that could be making suck a rackett?

 

Try running the car without the belt to see if it still makes the noise.

 

It does, I just went and checked. That narrows the list, Oil pump, ATI crank pulley, or the chain tensioner still not working.

 

If this were a roulette game, my chip would be on the crank pulley. I've seen a number of posts about them failing.

The chain tensioner's a possibility as well, though remote--new parts don't often come out of the box bad. If you unstuck the old one, then that lowers the odds on the chain tensioner, though....

The oil pump, IIRC, is just a pair of gears that have different centerlines, driven off the crank. Not much *to* go wrong with that, and you'd likely see low oil pressure before you heard rattle on that.

Good luck! I hope to see you and your car at MitM....

C ya,
Dutch

 

You will see me Joe, The ATI went on the same time as the Sprintex. It feels rock solid for the wiggle test, but who knows. I'm betting on its just the tensioner didnt pop loose and aply tension, it's the first thing to come out tomorrow morning. And I will dig as deep as I need to, to get this fixed before next Wendsday.

 

Hey Rick, I don't like the sound of this........ The poor mans stethoscope is in order = a long screwdriver that you put to your ear. You should be able to find the trouble area.
Post where you are getting the noise....

 

Ok I pulled the tensioner back out, it was extended so it's good.
I am stumped.

In an attempt to use my GoPro as a diagnostic tool, I captured it on VIDEO, running without the S/C belt on. Here's the link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbI_j3GrGyQ

 

Ok, you got me. You need to tell me where the noise is, under the front cover?, If so it could be the chain guide rail, unless you replaced it - that's what it sounds like!!!!! Try the screwdriver, old school stuff.... before dirt was discovered

 

It's coming from the oil pump/ front cover assembly. I have checked the guide rails, they are still in one pice, and theres no plastic shavings or chunks anywhere.

I am working on geting the oil pump off but there must be some trick to it because with all the bolts out I still cant pry it loose.

 

Heavy weather here, real heavy, 70 mph gusts........ Somethings jammed, I don't remember any trick to remove the pump.... no way can I go back to the car outside, downtown is getting hail, 1" - 1.5".....can't wait!!!!

 

Ugh I hate crappy weather, hope your car is in the garage Steve.

Is there something behind the front main seal that holds it in place? That seems to be where the plate is sticking.

 

rick,

the bentley manual says there are 10 bolts that hold the oil pump cover on. sure you got all of them out?

 

The car is outside up on ramps looking for the solution - missed the hail by 1 mile, exactly 1 mile....

There is nothing behind - just the 10 fastners - thanks bmacneal

When any, really any, oil pump makes noise there's no presure ????? AND there's debris in the oil. The pump failure generaly trashes the engine quick.......

I will continue to try to locate something on the front of the engine that could make the noise on the video

 

No need to Steve.

I got the pump off. BAD NEWS, The car wont be making it to MITM.

Here's what I found:

The tensioner and both guide rails are good.


The oil pump is good.




There is evidance of the crank hitting the oil pump case around the front main.


And there's copper colored metal shavings in the oil pump veins.


That suggests that the rod/main bearings are toasted! Possibly a new crank, depending on if it was damaged or not.

The thing that makes NO sence, is that this log was taken with the engine rattle the night it started. Look at the purple line thats the KNOCK NOISE, it has one spike to 100 and the rest is 60-80 which is good. Normally if the crank is floping around the KNOCK levels would go through the roof.


I am going to yank the oil pan and assess the damage, if it's too bad, it looks like a motor build is in my future. But being currently out of work, and toataly broke, it might take all winter and part of next spring to get the money needed. Thats ok by me, the car wont leave the garage in the winter anyhow. The part that bug's me the most is that this had to happen 10 days before the MINI event that got me hooked into not just buying a Lotus! Either way, next Wendsday through Sunday I will be up in Winter park at MITM, However the car will be confined to where it sits now.

 

NOO! I dont know whats worse, that such an awesome mini is out of commission or that I wont be able to read cool updates anymore :( Bummer!

 

Yep, it might be down for a while.

If the engine needs a rebuild, I wont be the one doing it. The motor will be shiped off to ENDYN and be built there.
Here's a short list of what I want:
9.3:1 compression pistons
Crower rods
balanced/lightened crank
Thumper TPR2 head
All ARP hardware
Still deciding on a cam

It's going to get expensive fast.

 

Sorry man,

I read your post last night and had a strong feeling it was the rod bearings. If you do some searching you'll find that rod bearing failures are common. Good news is you didn't chuck a rod through the block.

Reading your plans for the new motor it does sound's expensive. ENDYN isn't cheap. I assume you plan on getting his roller wave pistons. If you're planning to have them build the motor why not get their head?

LB

 

Parts that are engineered together often make way more power. It makes sense to use all their R&D and get a package that makes the most power in the range you need. Just like suspension, there are different settings for different purposes and getting a block built with head cam and even header should be the best combo, specified for your needs..

 

Well cost, prooven performance, and support of a friend is the main reasons I want the Thumper head. Thumper's heads also come with a few features that I'm sure ENDYN could/would do that I want. I just cant see giving all that money to only one shop, if you cant tell I like to diversify with my money.

 

I know a lot of crap has flown back and forth, but seriously, really sorry to see it, major bummer. Plus I was waiting to see how the intake was going to work out. On the other hand the new engine should be a beast; I'll be watching for it.

Have to agree with LB--Endyn isn't cheap, he does nice work though--if you're getting that much work through them, might be worth seeing if they can cut you a break on the head, it's pretty much an engine package anyway. Whatever you put together, hope it works out!

 

60 counts of pre ignition(knock) is normal?

What was your air/fuel with E-85?

Sorry to hear about you motor.

 

Catching up on the readings. First, the way you arranged the location and cooling of your IC looks great. Most of us are just dealing with using the seal around the back of the scoop inlet and a diverter. You literally forced all the airflow across the IC. Kudos for that.

Second, as many have said, sorry to hear the bottom end gave out. I do agree with getting all the work done by a single shop. I'm sure you'll get there. You've put in way too much time and effort to quit now. Too bad I don't live out that way, or I would jump in and help you do the wrenching.

 

Considering that My logs started out like this when I first installed the software. (MOST peaks are at 80 KNOCK NOISE or higher)


This looks pretty good, if you figgure the advance in timing, added boost pressure, and other variables.


My AFR's where higher than 11's, BUT within a safe range for alcohol. Thats all I'm saying about that.