R50/53 Mobil 1 oil - 0W-30 vs. 5W-30 vs. 0W-40
#26
#27
Where did you find this stuff?
I'm reluctant to use anything beyond BMW specs while still in warranty...
Just realized I'm in the 1st gen forum. Sorry to resurrect this old thread - I was searching for the oil spec change on Google and this thread popped up...
#28
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Mobil 1 / 0w-30 is available in Advance Auto Parts, but just in quarters. Sometimes if you are lucky you can get the 5qts bottle in Walmart for lower price. Actually, any oil is cheaper there.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-30.aspx
I've trying it for a couple of months already and works fine, giving better fuel economy. Any thoughts?
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-30.aspx
I've trying it for a couple of months already and works fine, giving better fuel economy. Any thoughts?
#30
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Wow is that 10-30 flow better than 5-30?
I use Redline Oils at 1 bottle of 5/30 and 2 and 3/4s bottle of straight 30wt.
Last edited by howsoonisnow1985; 03-14-2009 at 01:38 PM.
#31
rather the M1 0W-40? the Euro formula? I haven't seen a 0W-30 M1, (not saying their isn't). Just curious.
#34
more on the specs here, (high level):
http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm
Last edited by javelina1; 03-15-2009 at 08:10 PM.
#35
Do I understand it correctly that the main difference about A3/B3 is that it is approved for extended change intervals?
If this is correct, and a person chooses to change their oil at say 5K, then this specification is not as important?
Please correct my faulty thinking if I'm all wet.
YD
If this is correct, and a person chooses to change their oil at say 5K, then this specification is not as important?
Please correct my faulty thinking if I'm all wet.
YD
#36
Do I understand it correctly that the main difference about A3/B3 is that it is approved for extended change intervals?
If this is correct, and a person chooses to change their oil at say 5K, then this specification is not as important?
Please correct my faulty thinking if I'm all wet.
YD
If this is correct, and a person chooses to change their oil at say 5K, then this specification is not as important?
Please correct my faulty thinking if I'm all wet.
YD
#38
#39
#41
#42
Maybe... I sent Amsoil a email asking them if they could tell me when they were using ACEA A2, B2, A3, B3, B4 on the label. They now have progressed to A5 and (IIRC) A6. I do see a lot number on it though. I could send them that if they need more clues.
I do know that the stuff could not have been purchased until sometime around 2000 at the earliest. Because they bought Amsoil initially to use in a Truck that was purchased at that time. Probably late in 2000 or early 01. However right after they bought that truck they started out using the Amsoil XL 7500 in it. They bought a couple of cases and the truck was rarely used so those lasted a good while but they cannot pin point what "a good while" was. Then sometime later when they ran out of XL they ordered some of this Extended Drain interval stuff (these cases). They cannot recall how long after but they think at least a "Few years" later. Maybe in 03 or 04 or could even been as late as 05... is their guess.
The cases are in great shape. One sealed case of 12 bottles. The open case has just three bottles missing. Bottles sealed and labels in new shape. And looking through the site widow on the sides of the bottles no signs of separation. The room itself has been between 60 and 80 degrees all but a few outages where it might been to 30 or as high as 95 a couple short times. So well controlled for 99.9% of the time and even when not it was not extreme nor for very long.
I do know that the stuff could not have been purchased until sometime around 2000 at the earliest. Because they bought Amsoil initially to use in a Truck that was purchased at that time. Probably late in 2000 or early 01. However right after they bought that truck they started out using the Amsoil XL 7500 in it. They bought a couple of cases and the truck was rarely used so those lasted a good while but they cannot pin point what "a good while" was. Then sometime later when they ran out of XL they ordered some of this Extended Drain interval stuff (these cases). They cannot recall how long after but they think at least a "Few years" later. Maybe in 03 or 04 or could even been as late as 05... is their guess.
The cases are in great shape. One sealed case of 12 bottles. The open case has just three bottles missing. Bottles sealed and labels in new shape. And looking through the site widow on the sides of the bottles no signs of separation. The room itself has been between 60 and 80 degrees all but a few outages where it might been to 30 or as high as 95 a couple short times. So well controlled for 99.9% of the time and even when not it was not extreme nor for very long.
Last edited by cphilip; 03-16-2009 at 03:51 PM.
#44
Shelf life for unopened oil bottles is said to be about 4-5 years.
Below is a quote from this informative site:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Engine Oil Shelf Life.
I couldn't decide whether to put this in the FAQ or the main page, so it's in both, because I get asked this question a lot. Typically, the question is along the lines of "GenericAutoSuperStore are having a sale on WickedlySlippy Brand synthetic oil. If I buy it now, how long can I keep if before I use it?"
In general, liquid lubricants (ie. oils, not greases) will remain intact for a number of years. The main factor affecting the life of the oil is the storage condition for the products. Exposure to extreme temperature changes, and moisture will reduce the shelf life of the lubricants. ie. don't leave in the sun with the lid off. Best to keep them sealed and unopened.
Technically, engine oils have shelf lives of four to five years. However, as years pass, unused engine oils can become obsolete and fail to meet the technical requirements of current engines. The specs get updated regularly based on new scientific testing procedures and engine requirements. But this is only really a concern if you've bought a brand new car but have engine oil you bought for the previous car. An oil that is a number of years old might not be formulated to meet the requirements set for your newer engine.
If your unopened containers of engine oil are more than three years old, read the labels to make sure they meet the latest industry standards. If they do meet the current standards, you might want to take the extra precaution of obtaining oil analysis before using them. An oil analysis will check for key properties of the oil and ensure that it still meets the original manufacturing specs. Of course the cost of getting an analysis done on old oil is probably going to outweigh going and buying fresh stuff. So it's a double-edged sword.
As a general rule, the simpler the oil formulation, the longer the shelf life. The following is a guideline under protected conditions:
ProductShelf LifeBase Oils, Process Oils3 yearsHydraulic Oils, Compressor Oils, General Purpose Lubricating Oils2 yearsEngine Oils and Transmission Oils3 yearsIndustrial and Automotive Gear Oils2 yearsMetal Working and Cutting Oils1 yearThe following are signs of storage instability in a lubricant:
Below is a quote from this informative site:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
Engine Oil Shelf Life.
I couldn't decide whether to put this in the FAQ or the main page, so it's in both, because I get asked this question a lot. Typically, the question is along the lines of "GenericAutoSuperStore are having a sale on WickedlySlippy Brand synthetic oil. If I buy it now, how long can I keep if before I use it?"
In general, liquid lubricants (ie. oils, not greases) will remain intact for a number of years. The main factor affecting the life of the oil is the storage condition for the products. Exposure to extreme temperature changes, and moisture will reduce the shelf life of the lubricants. ie. don't leave in the sun with the lid off. Best to keep them sealed and unopened.
Technically, engine oils have shelf lives of four to five years. However, as years pass, unused engine oils can become obsolete and fail to meet the technical requirements of current engines. The specs get updated regularly based on new scientific testing procedures and engine requirements. But this is only really a concern if you've bought a brand new car but have engine oil you bought for the previous car. An oil that is a number of years old might not be formulated to meet the requirements set for your newer engine.
If your unopened containers of engine oil are more than three years old, read the labels to make sure they meet the latest industry standards. If they do meet the current standards, you might want to take the extra precaution of obtaining oil analysis before using them. An oil analysis will check for key properties of the oil and ensure that it still meets the original manufacturing specs. Of course the cost of getting an analysis done on old oil is probably going to outweigh going and buying fresh stuff. So it's a double-edged sword.
As a general rule, the simpler the oil formulation, the longer the shelf life. The following is a guideline under protected conditions:
ProductShelf LifeBase Oils, Process Oils3 yearsHydraulic Oils, Compressor Oils, General Purpose Lubricating Oils2 yearsEngine Oils and Transmission Oils3 yearsIndustrial and Automotive Gear Oils2 yearsMetal Working and Cutting Oils1 yearThe following are signs of storage instability in a lubricant:
- Settling out of the additives as a gel or sticky liquid
- Floc or haze
- Precipitates/solid material
- Colour change or haziness
#45
#46
Why 50 W?
awfully heavy. Do they really make that? Here in CA, it is 15W-50. Synthetics already give much more extended heat protection than the old conventional oils. Central texas hot is no more than much of midwest or southwest in terms of temp. (humidity aside) 40W would be the usual choice in a hotter environment (relative to 30). Typical car specs call for 40W to (un)comfortably over 100 degrees ambient temp. And, in any case you would still strongly prefer the O or the 5 for the cold viscosity, where most engine wear occurs during start up. If you are focused on Mobil 1 (where this thread started I guess years ago), 0W-40 is the only one that meets the long life spec's Mini's and other late model German/Euro cars often specify (OW-30, 5W-30 and 15W-50 in particular don't).
I just bought a 2008 Hardtop (33K), put some Michelin Energy tires, interested in MPG, and like to keep my cars without any mods. Just picked up some Mobil 1 0-50, live in C. TX and temp is 60-90 degrees. More concerned about heat than cold. Will the 0-50 hurt the car?
#47
Amsoil has a few different recommendations for our Minis:
http://www.amsoil.com/products/appli...spx?zo=1300967
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SEO[1]
Maximum Performance Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil (AZOQT)
Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
All TEMPS......5W-30, 5W-40
I am finishing off some 5w40 Euro I had left over from the VWs but will probably pick up the 0w30 Signature series when I restock.
http://www.amsoil.com/products/appli...spx?zo=1300967
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SEO[1]
Maximum Performance Signature Series 100% Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil (AZOQT)
Maximum Performance SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASLQT)
Performance Plus XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLFQT)
All TEMPS......5W-30, 5W-40
I am finishing off some 5w40 Euro I had left over from the VWs but will probably pick up the 0w30 Signature series when I restock.
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