R50/53 did my front brakes... pretty easy!
did my front brakes... pretty easy!
i decided to tackle the front brakes today... and it was not as bad as i thought it would be. the hardest part is getting the PITA clip back on when reassembling. that thing really was difficult. but i did break a socket wrench and socket 1/2" to 3/8" adapter trying to get the driver's side front wheel off. (the first one that i attempted)
does anybody else use sockets to remove lugs? i had to do the job with my 4-way tire tool, but i like the big socket wrench in a pipe better. i guess i need to get a 1/2" deep socket set to use instead of trying to make do with the 3/8" ones.
also i bled the lines and drove teh car and everything is fine, but the brake fliud level in the reservior is not low. i didi not have to add any at all. i did not check the level before, but this doesn't seem normal.
also does anybody know what the sensor that slides into the inner brake pad on the driver's side front hub is for?
does anybody else use sockets to remove lugs? i had to do the job with my 4-way tire tool, but i like the big socket wrench in a pipe better. i guess i need to get a 1/2" deep socket set to use instead of trying to make do with the 3/8" ones.
also i bled the lines and drove teh car and everything is fine, but the brake fliud level in the reservior is not low. i didi not have to add any at all. i did not check the level before, but this doesn't seem normal.
also does anybody know what the sensor that slides into the inner brake pad on the driver's side front hub is for?
Welcome to the knuckle buster club!
the hardest part is getting the PITA clip back on when reassembling. that thing really was difficult.
I usually grab it with a set of long nose pliers which makes installing it a snap.
but i did break a socket wrench and socket 1/2" to 3/8" adapter trying to get the driver's side front wheel off. (the first one that i attempted)
does anybody else use sockets to remove lugs? i had to do the job with my 4-way tire tool, but i like the big socket wrench in a pipe better. i guess i need to get a 1/2" deep socket set to use instead of trying to make do with the 3/8" ones.
Sounds like you are in need of a compressor and impact wrench for the "off" and a torque wrench for the return.... I use a deep socket and a breaker bar on my 79....all 1/2 in.
also i bled the lines and drove teh car and everything is fine, but the brake fliud level in the reservior is not low. i didi not have to add any at all. i did not check the level before, but this doesn't seem normal.
Why should it be low? Actually, when you replace the pads you need to be concerned about overflowing the reservior. As the pad wore down the piston needed to travel farther and used more fluid from the res'. When you pushed the piston back in to give you room for the thick new pads...you pushed fluid back into the res'...this is why you should loosen the res' cap when compressing the piston. If you'd topped up the res' at some point in time you could overflow fluid out of the tank.
also does anybody know what the sensor that slides into the inner brake pad on the driver's side front hub is for?
That's the wear sensor and it sounds like "you did not need pads yet" - that sensor works by having the pad get so thin that the rotor hits the sensor tip and wears off the end, breaking a wire. Yours didn't....no foul on changing pads early tho - you saved $20 cuz you didn't need to replace the sensor.
I usually grab it with a set of long nose pliers which makes installing it a snap.
but i did break a socket wrench and socket 1/2" to 3/8" adapter trying to get the driver's side front wheel off. (the first one that i attempted)
does anybody else use sockets to remove lugs? i had to do the job with my 4-way tire tool, but i like the big socket wrench in a pipe better. i guess i need to get a 1/2" deep socket set to use instead of trying to make do with the 3/8" ones.
Sounds like you are in need of a compressor and impact wrench for the "off" and a torque wrench for the return.... I use a deep socket and a breaker bar on my 79....all 1/2 in.
also i bled the lines and drove teh car and everything is fine, but the brake fliud level in the reservior is not low. i didi not have to add any at all. i did not check the level before, but this doesn't seem normal.
Why should it be low? Actually, when you replace the pads you need to be concerned about overflowing the reservior. As the pad wore down the piston needed to travel farther and used more fluid from the res'. When you pushed the piston back in to give you room for the thick new pads...you pushed fluid back into the res'...this is why you should loosen the res' cap when compressing the piston. If you'd topped up the res' at some point in time you could overflow fluid out of the tank.
also does anybody know what the sensor that slides into the inner brake pad on the driver's side front hub is for?
That's the wear sensor and it sounds like "you did not need pads yet" - that sensor works by having the pad get so thin that the rotor hits the sensor tip and wears off the end, breaking a wire. Yours didn't....no foul on changing pads early tho - you saved $20 cuz you didn't need to replace the sensor.
I use a 24" breaker bar to break the lug nuts free.
The sensor is the brake wear sensor. It should be replaced when you replace the pads. Once that sensor wears down enough it will trigger a light on the dash. Since you didn't change it, the light will probably come on soon even though you have plenty of pad left.
The sensor is the brake wear sensor. It should be replaced when you replace the pads. Once that sensor wears down enough it will trigger a light on the dash. Since you didn't change it, the light will probably come on soon even though you have plenty of pad left.
well they were thin and i was getting some kind of sound the last couple of days, that has gone away, but also i went with ceramic-hybrid to cut down on brake dust... i hate cleaning the car and then the wheels are dirty 2 days later.
You need to invest in a breaker bar to get the lugs off. Your standard 3/8" socket can't take that kind of abuse.
I've got a 24" breaker bar for lugs and an 18" torque wrench for putting back on. I put summer and winter rims on 2 of my 3 vehicles, so I invested in some items to save me some time and hassle.
As long as your at it drop $60 on a code reader. It's as handy as any screwdriver and you'll get your money's worth on the first code you clear without going to the dealer.
I've got a 24" breaker bar for lugs and an 18" torque wrench for putting back on. I put summer and winter rims on 2 of my 3 vehicles, so I invested in some items to save me some time and hassle.
As long as your at it drop $60 on a code reader. It's as handy as any screwdriver and you'll get your money's worth on the first code you clear without going to the dealer.
Coordinator :: Eastern Iowa MINIs
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From: Round Rock, TX
The sensor doesnt need replaced if it didnt go off.
It is an electrical connection once the pad wears down to the point it breaks the connection then the light is triggered and you have to replace the sensor.
So if you replace pads before sensor wire is cut your fine to keep using sensor.
It is an electrical connection once the pad wears down to the point it breaks the connection then the light is triggered and you have to replace the sensor.
So if you replace pads before sensor wire is cut your fine to keep using sensor.
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