Washington State Emissions Test
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 55
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From: Seattle
Washington State Emissions Test
Hi all:
Off topic for MINIs. On topic for cars.
I helped my daughter get a '97 Jetta last summer. I carfax'd it ahead of time and found that a history of failed emissions tests were the only black marks. Okay, we bought it.
It's renewal time. It failed the first emissions test. I had Nicole take it to my favorite mechanic in Puyallup and they replaced a couple burned vacuum lines and tested the emissions there and the car was fine. $129.00.
Nicole took it back a second time and they failed her a second time. Not because emission levels were exceeded, but because the check engine light doesn't come on when it should. (Ignition on, engine not running.)
Since the $150.00 spend threshold has not been met we're obligated to spend more to fix the problem.
I used to fix a lot of stuff myself. I hate dash work. My favorite mechanic tells me it will be close to $200.00 to replace the light, because removing the dash is labor intensive. There is "this one guy we talked to" that would do it for $50 but that's scary.
How do you go about spending money "towards" the high expense of fixing a check engine light?
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Following is excerpt from http://www.emissiontestwa.com/TestRecordExplanation.aspx
[FONT=Arial]MIL Engine Off: PASS, FAIL or N/A. A PASS when the Engine Check light or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on when the ignition key is turned to the “key on engine off” position. On most vehicles, this light will stay on as long as the key is in this position. However, on some vehicles, the MIL will come on only briefly and then will go out. Your vehicle owner’s manual may have more information.
Always N/A if a OBD kiosk was used.
MIL Engine On: PASS or FAIL. If the check engine light is on while the engine is running the OBD system indicates that there is a problem with the vehicle. However if there is not a fault code found starting with a P0 the overall Test Results should be a PASS. Always N/A if a OBD kiosk was used.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]
[/FONT]
So you can fail under condition one with engine off for no light...
But you can pass under condition two if no P0 fault code is registered?
TIA for any help.
Off topic for MINIs. On topic for cars.
I helped my daughter get a '97 Jetta last summer. I carfax'd it ahead of time and found that a history of failed emissions tests were the only black marks. Okay, we bought it.
It's renewal time. It failed the first emissions test. I had Nicole take it to my favorite mechanic in Puyallup and they replaced a couple burned vacuum lines and tested the emissions there and the car was fine. $129.00.
Nicole took it back a second time and they failed her a second time. Not because emission levels were exceeded, but because the check engine light doesn't come on when it should. (Ignition on, engine not running.)
Since the $150.00 spend threshold has not been met we're obligated to spend more to fix the problem.
I used to fix a lot of stuff myself. I hate dash work. My favorite mechanic tells me it will be close to $200.00 to replace the light, because removing the dash is labor intensive. There is "this one guy we talked to" that would do it for $50 but that's scary.
How do you go about spending money "towards" the high expense of fixing a check engine light?
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Following is excerpt from http://www.emissiontestwa.com/TestRecordExplanation.aspx
Originally Posted by Washington State
[FONT=Arial]MIL Engine Off: PASS, FAIL or N/A. A PASS when the Engine Check light or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on when the ignition key is turned to the “key on engine off” position. On most vehicles, this light will stay on as long as the key is in this position. However, on some vehicles, the MIL will come on only briefly and then will go out. Your vehicle owner’s manual may have more information.
Always N/A if a OBD kiosk was used.
MIL Engine On: PASS or FAIL. If the check engine light is on while the engine is running the OBD system indicates that there is a problem with the vehicle. However if there is not a fault code found starting with a P0 the overall Test Results should be a PASS. Always N/A if a OBD kiosk was used.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial]
So you can fail under condition one with engine off for no light...
But you can pass under condition two if no P0 fault code is registered?
TIA for any help.
Reverse Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,472
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I know a couple of people with Jettas, the CEL is pretty notoriously 'always on'. There are multiple reasons why it is on - usually the O2 sensor - its a weak spot - and often the owners learn to either ignore it, or pull the bulb / stick tape over it.
I know that on a 2001 Jetta it is possible to reach behind the dash with a small amount of disassembly but I am not sure about the '97 version.
It may be worth crawling around under the dash to see if there is any way of reaching up there ?
I know that on a 2001 Jetta it is possible to reach behind the dash with a small amount of disassembly but I am not sure about the '97 version.
It may be worth crawling around under the dash to see if there is any way of reaching up there ?
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Seattle
Thanks Max.
I'm bitin' the bullet. I just texted my daughter to take it back to the mechanic and have him replace the lamp. She lives with her mom and I'm in the next county.
I'm not too bad with a wrench but if I do it I have a feeling she'll be living with a dash squeak that'll make her wanna pull her hair out.
I'm bitin' the bullet. I just texted my daughter to take it back to the mechanic and have him replace the lamp. She lives with her mom and I'm in the next county.
I'm not too bad with a wrench but if I do it I have a feeling she'll be living with a dash squeak that'll make her wanna pull her hair out.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Hi mate. I think the main problem with your daughters jetta is on the dash. I have asked some mechanics i saw on about.com and they said that the check engine light may be causing all the problems. It will better if you'll be investing for this part, you wont have any problem again for emission failure. Just find some guys who knows to remove the dash for a cheaper cost. Cheers!
Last edited by knighttony13; Sep 2, 2013 at 11:02 PM.
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