Navigation & Audio 2015 Sound Quality Build
#1
#5
Progress ( Wiring )
Very easy to get a 1/0 cable through the grommet behind the battery.
Battery back in and inline fuse set
Pulled all the moldings off. you have to start from the Apillar and work your way toward the front. watch out there are couple of hidden clips. there is plenty of room under the molding for power cable.
Pulled the passenger seat out and sliced the carpet and there is a control processor for the connect system. But does not look like a amp.
when you move the processor there is a ton of room.
Battery back in and inline fuse set
Pulled all the moldings off. you have to start from the Apillar and work your way toward the front. watch out there are couple of hidden clips. there is plenty of room under the molding for power cable.
Pulled the passenger seat out and sliced the carpet and there is a control processor for the connect system. But does not look like a amp.
when you move the processor there is a ton of room.
#6
#7
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Yup, looking forward to following this one as I'm thinking this spring will be the time that I also do an audio upgrade.
I'm curious to know where you are picking up the audio signal from exactly and what equipment you're planning on using. No one has yet to post any pictures and show any details on how/where they are picking up the signal from the factory head unit. I've been looking at the Mobridge DA2 recently to provide a signal for the amps but haven't decided on what exactly I'm going to use as I need to maintain the factory head unit.
Good timing on this thread!!
I'm curious to know where you are picking up the audio signal from exactly and what equipment you're planning on using. No one has yet to post any pictures and show any details on how/where they are picking up the signal from the factory head unit. I've been looking at the Mobridge DA2 recently to provide a signal for the amps but haven't decided on what exactly I'm going to use as I need to maintain the factory head unit.
Good timing on this thread!!
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#8
I like to think outside the box (hopefully i can explain it sorry my grammar is horrible.)
This is a lease so i will not be touching anything with the stock system besides using the 6.5 inch under the seats. making custom fiberglass speaker pods for the dash and subs in trunk.
I am using a Ipod touch connected to the iPhone interface in center consul with a spotify app that interfaces with the connect system using my Note4 as a hotspot. Since the connect still uses analog audio, I can unplug the audio out of the aux input i still have complete control over the ipod with the connect system. I take that analog audio signal and go into one of the Bit one aux inputs and the 2nd aux input will goto my note4 for any other apps i want to use.
The Bit one has its own controller that i will be using for volume control/fade/input switch etc..
So in theory i will have 2 complete systems. 1 that will still be able to answer my calls via bluetooth and if i need to listens to radio. My main system will play anything from my phone or Ipod.
This is a lease so i will not be touching anything with the stock system besides using the 6.5 inch under the seats. making custom fiberglass speaker pods for the dash and subs in trunk.
I am using a Ipod touch connected to the iPhone interface in center consul with a spotify app that interfaces with the connect system using my Note4 as a hotspot. Since the connect still uses analog audio, I can unplug the audio out of the aux input i still have complete control over the ipod with the connect system. I take that analog audio signal and go into one of the Bit one aux inputs and the 2nd aux input will goto my note4 for any other apps i want to use.
The Bit one has its own controller that i will be using for volume control/fade/input switch etc..
So in theory i will have 2 complete systems. 1 that will still be able to answer my calls via bluetooth and if i need to listens to radio. My main system will play anything from my phone or Ipod.
#9
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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If I understand you correctly, you are leaving the factory system intact. The only part of that system you will be using is the 6.5" under the seats in addition to the pods you will be building and the sub?? So the factory head unit still functions as normal.
What you are building is a completely stand alone system to run ipod content.
Ok, this is a different direction than I'm heading. I want to be able to replace the existing stock system while maintaining the factory head unit as a source. At this time I'm looking into the Mobridge interface that "apparently" replaces the factory amplifier and provides RCA outs from the factory stock stereo. From there I will go into aftermarket amps, and then into a new 3-way front end and a sub in the back. So it's a hbit different. I also want to keep everything so it can all be put back to original. The only thing I can see myself hacking up is the triangles in the doors where the H&K tweeter pods go. I'm going to make custom ones.
What you are building is a completely stand alone system to run ipod content.
Ok, this is a different direction than I'm heading. I want to be able to replace the existing stock system while maintaining the factory head unit as a source. At this time I'm looking into the Mobridge interface that "apparently" replaces the factory amplifier and provides RCA outs from the factory stock stereo. From there I will go into aftermarket amps, and then into a new 3-way front end and a sub in the back. So it's a hbit different. I also want to keep everything so it can all be put back to original. The only thing I can see myself hacking up is the triangles in the doors where the H&K tweeter pods go. I'm going to make custom ones.
#11
#12
Looks good. Have you thought about doing those speaker pods in the kick panels to give you a better shot at equal path lengths and sound stage? The passenger legs might get in the way but with some tweaking I would imagine that you should get a better stage. I know many manufactures do speakers on the dash and high in the doors. Coming from the car audio side the kick panels were always the best spot that we found when it came to getting a more realistic sound stage.
Good luck though with finishing it up.
Pat
Good luck though with finishing it up.
Pat
#13
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Just my opinion, but I'm not a fan of those large pods up on the dash. Too bulky and intrusive. But take that with a grain of salt as that's only my opinion and opinions are a dime a dozen.
I think in the CM the idea position for the tweeter/mid combo is using the 4" location for the mid and the tweeter in the sail panels. They are nice and close (tweet and mid) and wide (off-axis to your hearing path). Time alignment and aiming should be able to correct the path lengths easily. The only down side to the sail panels for the tweeters is it limits the size of the tweeter due to the vent that blow air across to the window also being right there. AND, the 4" factory location is a bit blocked by the dash....... but car audio is a compromise regardless.
Anyways, just my $0.02
I think in the CM the idea position for the tweeter/mid combo is using the 4" location for the mid and the tweeter in the sail panels. They are nice and close (tweet and mid) and wide (off-axis to your hearing path). Time alignment and aiming should be able to correct the path lengths easily. The only down side to the sail panels for the tweeters is it limits the size of the tweeter due to the vent that blow air across to the window also being right there. AND, the 4" factory location is a bit blocked by the dash....... but car audio is a compromise regardless.
Anyways, just my $0.02
#15