Navigation & Audio Integral Audio X9331 T-Harness: Now Available!
#126
Be careful about that if you have a late (2013 and up) Second Gen with H.K, because it appears BMW/MINI changed some wiring in those audio circuits sometime around 2013. I discovered that when I installed the x9331 in my 2013 R57. I found the black wire going into pin 1 on the x15 was not the remote turn on. It was carrying constant 12+V, even when the car was off and the fob was not installed.
I then looked for an alternate source for amp turn on, which sources here say can be found at the connector going into the H/T amp, where there is supposedly a remote turn on wire which is white going into pin #10 of the grey connector in that harness. Problem is, there is no such white wire in that harness in my car; in fact, the colors of the other wires in it are significantly different than those described in circa 2010 write ups in this forum on how to mod the H/K system.
#127
#129
Looking for an alternate source for amp turn on, I then checked the harness going into the H/K amp, where numerous sources here have reported that "amp remote turn on is the white wire going into pin 10 on the grey half of the OEM connector."
That may have been the case at one time, but when I carefully unwrapped the black tape securing the wire bundle going into the amp and checked it wire by wire with a magnifying glass, I found there is no white wire in it and that the colors of most of the other wires in that bundle do not correspond to the circa 2010-1011 descriptions others have posted here. Which again suggests wiring harness changes were made at or before the time my car was produced. I'm left wondering if those may have been prompted by upgrades being made to the H/K amp, when it became clear around 2011-2012 it was experiencing significant reliability issues.
My temporary work around to not being able to locate a factory remote turn on is a fuse piggyback connector, which is sending turn on voltage to my sub amp via fuse #44. Imperfect, given that means the amp is presently on whenever the car is running. The permanent one will be using a feed from the one of the unused RCA outputs on the X9331 to get a PAC TR-4 to turn on the sub amp whenever audio signals are present in the H/K system.
Last edited by mikeythemars; 07-05-2016 at 07:16 AM.
#130
#131
When I installed your X9331 connector (which works perfectly, thank you) to add a subwoofer in my H/K equipped 2013 R57 , I checked that black wire coming out of pin 1 on the x15. Interestingly, I found that in my car it is not switched, but instead carries constant +12V, even when the car is off and the fob removed. So it appears MINI made some wiring changes in some models at or before the time my vehicle was produced.
Looking for an alternate source for amp turn on, I then checked the harness going into the H/K amp, where numerous sources here have reported that "amp remote turn on is the white wire going into pin 10 on the grey half of the OEM connector."
That may have been the case at one time, but when I carefully unwrapped the black tape securing the wire bundle going into the amp and checked it wire by wire with a magnifying glass, I found there is no white wire in it and that the colors of most of the other wires in that bundle do not correspond to the circa 2010-1011 descriptions others have posted here. Which again suggests changes were made at or before the time my car was produced. I'm left wondering if that may have been prompted by changes being made to the H/K amp, due to the reliability issues it was experiencing
My temporary work around to this is a fuse piggyback connector, which is sending turn on voltage to my sub amp via fuse #44. Imperfect, given that means the amp is presently on whenever the car is running. The permanent one will be using a feed from the one of the unused RCA outputs on the X9331 to get a PAC TR-4 to turn on the sub amp whenever audio signals are present in the H/K system.
#132
Pin 1 on the X15 in a 2013 R57 is definitely the RAD_ON signal. RAD_ON operates a little differently from what you might expect though. Because all vehicle sounds are produced through the audio system (door chimes included) the RAD_ON +12V is activated by pretty much any activity including opening or unlocking a door. It then remains on for quite some time. If you walked away from the vehicle and left the doors open and returned several minutes later and checked that pin 1 wire without doing anything else you'd find RAD_ON deactivated. Note that there is also more than one solid black wire in the X15. I don't recall what the other one is.
When I was checking out that wire bundle, I was tempted to open up that black connector housing (the thing with the lever) to see which wire was going into pin #10 on the grey side. But I didn't, because I wasn't familiar with how to take it apart and given its thin plastic design, it looked like it could be easily broken if not opened up properly.
Last edited by mikeythemars; 07-05-2016 at 09:50 AM.
#133
Pin 1 on the X15 in a 2013 R57 is definitely the RAD_ON signal. RAD_ON operates a little differently from what you might expect though. Because all vehicle sounds are produced through the audio system (door chimes included) the RAD_ON +12V is activated by pretty much any activity including opening or unlocking a door. It then remains on for quite some time. If you walked away from the vehicle and left the doors open and returned several minutes later and checked that pin 1 wire without doing anything else you'd find RAD_ON deactivated. Note that there is also more than one solid black wire in the X15. I don't recall what the other one is.
I also searched the owner's manual to see if there is any way for the car owner to change (read: shorten) that delay time, but it appears there isn't. Presumably, keeping an idle audio amp on for seven minutes doesn't create battery drainage issues, because I haven't seen any reports of that from those with with HK systems or your Soundstage and Subwoofer systems that use external amps.
So now with your help I have located the factory variant of a remote turn on lead. I'm still going to test using that PAC TR4 approach I mentioned earlier in this thread. If it works as I expect, I feel it will better replicate a true remote turn on circuit, only keeping my remote sub amp on if there are audio signals being sent into it.
Last edited by mikeythemars; 07-06-2016 at 04:46 AM.
#135
Secondly I have one of these splitters if anyone wants it, I purchased it not realizing it would be useless on a hifi system. Custom aftermarket ftw
#136
No wonder I couldn't find it, I was looking under the seats!
I would definitely take that splitter off your hands. I think it can be used if you want to add an amplified sub that takes line level inputs, which is what I was thinking, depending on how hard it looked to use the speaker level outputs from the amp. Really depends on where I can located the small powered sub.
I would definitely take that splitter off your hands. I think it can be used if you want to add an amplified sub that takes line level inputs, which is what I was thinking, depending on how hard it looked to use the speaker level outputs from the amp. Really depends on where I can located the small powered sub.
#138
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