I've been waiting for an aftermarket stereo head unit with motorized screen, GPS option, and most importantly - ORANGE ILLUMINATION. Call me ****! Finally, here is one that meets the criteria.

Kenwood KVT-715DVD (Receiver/DVD/touch-screen monitor)


Kenwood KNA-DV3100 (DVD Nav)

 

I also like the Pioneer AVIC-N1, which is cheaper than the Kenwood by $500. Unfortunately, it doesn't meet the ORANGE illumination requirement.

 

I don't know why you're worried about the illumination color. There aren't that many lights on the Pioneer. You could always get the LEDs changed.

I've always had good luck with Kenwood components but never liked the small button so typical of their headunits. Everything else about them is usually high quality.

I suggest going with a single amp. Getting power, ground and signals to the boot for the sub is a hassle. Get a 4 channel. Run the rear speakers from the rear channels of the headunit power. Run the fronts from 2 channels from the amp and the sub from the bridged channels of the amp. The amp should have an internal xover. This configuration requires only one set of RCAs, one power cable and only a couple of speaker wires. There are many options, like the JL Audio 300/4 or the RF 551x.

As for the sub, flat along the floor puts the cone in harm's way (assuming it's pointing up.) You could build a flat band-pass box that uses the floor as the second chamber. It will definitely be protected and will work well. Any sub that can be used in sealed and ported enclosures can be used (JL 10W0 for example.)

 

I would suggest not going with the CD changer and going with the Kenwood Music Keg, aka, PhatMusic. It'll hold virtually *all* of your music on its hard disk, far more music than a CD changer could.

I like that Kenwood setup too, but I would also add Sirius satellite radio. When I last looked at the Sirius vs XM lineup, I much preferred the Sirius setup, which is why I couldn't go with the Pioneer head unit.

 

Thanks for the suggestions:

To save weight, I might use the 4-channel amp that's currently in the car to run the front speakers and bridged for the 10" sub. Use the power from the H/U to run the rear as suggested. Due to the limitation of the height,, the sub will be mounted facing upwards with a grille cover for protection. Given the air apace available, the box will be a sealed box. Band-pass box and ported configuration might not work. Good suggestion though.

Music Keg is an excellet idea to consider. I'm not experience with loading music onto the hard drive since I still live in the stone age. I'll look into it.

DWC, how difficult is it to change the LED?