Navigation & Audio Help with HK bypass
Help with HK bypass
I got some info from another member here, however, I am, not sure how to bypass the amp to get some sound out of the unit.
Are these crossover connections made with the amp disconnected/removed from the car? I'm just not sure how to make the connections. I presume, since the amp is probably bad, that I would remove it and jumper the connections at the wiring harness that goes to the amp. Is this correct?
First things first, here are the color codes for your speakers at the amplifier wiring harness:
Black harness:
Front left woofer- small yellow w/ green stripe and small yellow w/ grey stripe
Front right woofer- small yellow w/red stripe and small brown w/ orange stripe
Rear left- large yellow w/ green stripe and large yellow with grey stripe
Rear right- large yellow w/ red stripe and large brown w/ orange stripe
Left output- small yellow w/ red stripe and small yellow w/ brown
Grey harness:
Front right tweet-small green w/ black stripe and small green w/ brown stripe
Front left tweet- small yellow w/ black stripe and small yellow w/ brown stripe
Rear left- large green w/ red stripe and large green w/ black stripe
Rear right- large solid green and large solid brown
Right output- small green w/ brown stripe and small brown w/ black stripe
Option 1- zero cost. The front woofer can be wired in series with one coil of the rear speaker to create a safe load for the head unit. This will give you full range sound from the front and rear woofers. There will be very little high frequency sound available in this scenario, but it will simply give you something to listen to.
Option 2- buy some simple passive crossovers from somewhere like parts express or radio shack. They should only run around $15 each or so for a simple 2 way xover. This still requires wiring the front and rear speakers together as in option 1, or buying some 2 ohm resistors to wire with the front woofers (if you would prefer to leave the rears out) to create a safe load for the head unit. This option will give you your highs back. Noteworthy for option 2 is the fact that you can run a tweeter crossover only and let the woofers play full range, use a 2 way as described above, or even use a 3 way and send the lows to the rear, mids to the front woofer, and highs to the tweeter.
Are these crossover connections made with the amp disconnected/removed from the car? I'm just not sure how to make the connections. I presume, since the amp is probably bad, that I would remove it and jumper the connections at the wiring harness that goes to the amp. Is this correct?
First things first, here are the color codes for your speakers at the amplifier wiring harness:
Black harness:
Front left woofer- small yellow w/ green stripe and small yellow w/ grey stripe
Front right woofer- small yellow w/red stripe and small brown w/ orange stripe
Rear left- large yellow w/ green stripe and large yellow with grey stripe
Rear right- large yellow w/ red stripe and large brown w/ orange stripe
Left output- small yellow w/ red stripe and small yellow w/ brown
Grey harness:
Front right tweet-small green w/ black stripe and small green w/ brown stripe
Front left tweet- small yellow w/ black stripe and small yellow w/ brown stripe
Rear left- large green w/ red stripe and large green w/ black stripe
Rear right- large solid green and large solid brown
Right output- small green w/ brown stripe and small brown w/ black stripe
Option 1- zero cost. The front woofer can be wired in series with one coil of the rear speaker to create a safe load for the head unit. This will give you full range sound from the front and rear woofers. There will be very little high frequency sound available in this scenario, but it will simply give you something to listen to.
Option 2- buy some simple passive crossovers from somewhere like parts express or radio shack. They should only run around $15 each or so for a simple 2 way xover. This still requires wiring the front and rear speakers together as in option 1, or buying some 2 ohm resistors to wire with the front woofers (if you would prefer to leave the rears out) to create a safe load for the head unit. This option will give you your highs back. Noteworthy for option 2 is the fact that you can run a tweeter crossover only and let the woofers play full range, use a 2 way as described above, or even use a 3 way and send the lows to the rear, mids to the front woofer, and highs to the tweeter.
I need some help on the same subject .I am replacing the entire HK system with Kenwood KIV-BT901 and 4) 2 PAIRS KICKER DS65 6.5" Speakers 6-1/2 INCH,and a Boyo back-up camera.
I am using a PAC SWI-RC CAR AUDIO STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and a Boss10 inch Subwoofer.
Currently I plan to wire all of the 4Kicker speakers direct but I would like to utilize the OEM speaker wiring if possible but not the HK Amp.
I would like to wire the 4 replacement speakers using the OEM existing wiring but I assume the OEM speaker wiring runs from the OEM head unit to the HK amp. I want to eliminate the amp. So how do I wire around ,bypass the amp.ie which colors coming onto the amp should connect to which colors exiting the amp??
Thanks
mike
I am using a PAC SWI-RC CAR AUDIO STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and a Boss10 inch Subwoofer.
Currently I plan to wire all of the 4Kicker speakers direct but I would like to utilize the OEM speaker wiring if possible but not the HK Amp.
I would like to wire the 4 replacement speakers using the OEM existing wiring but I assume the OEM speaker wiring runs from the OEM head unit to the HK amp. I want to eliminate the amp. So how do I wire around ,bypass the amp.ie which colors coming onto the amp should connect to which colors exiting the amp??
Thanks
mike
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MasterShaftner
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
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Sep 4, 2015 03:52 PM



