The seller said it was from a car 2 years ago with 40k on it. Said it was working fine then but apologized and refunded my money saying it could have gone bad on the shelf. Told me I could toss it.

Anyways my description sucked.

When power is on, I get sound but it is cracking and static along with some recognizable music. When I turn the engine on, I get one big pop then lots more cracking and interference or the music goes away altogether. I hope this is more clear.

 

Was that a better explanation or should I try to take a video of it?

 

Sorry, been swamped with other items.

Schatzy makes good points about the other possibilities. Which also reminds me, any diagnosis or suggestions we give will only be as good as the assumptions we've made and the info you've given us.

From the description I think the most likely suspect is a short to power (chassis) ground on the amp output.

You'll have to dig into it to find out. I'd suggest trying the previous suggestion and trying the DMM to see if you have continuity to ground from any of the amp output pins at the X10266 connector. In light of Schatzy's suggestions, I'd also check for continuity to ground with the car on, AND (due to the smoking voice coil) check for DC on the low-level input to the amp with the car on.

 

Thanks for the good info. That's all Japanese to me haha. I tried my multimeter just now and failed. I only got one tone to sound and I have no idea which wire it was cause the amp connector is a bit of a pain to test. Is there any easier way? Should every single wire I test give me a continuity tone? Again, I can certainly ask my roommate for help with that part. Just trying to weed things out myself before Ibother him. I'm taking a video right now. Maybe that can also help.

I'm sorry for being so insufficiently skilled with this and I thank you both for your patience and information.

 

Ok, so you can find the video I made here. It's only 2 minutes long. Hopefully you guys have time to watch it and it helps.

Video!

Thanks!

 

Oh! One more thing. When I leave the fuse in for the amp and shut the car off completely, I still get a tiny bit of static sound and a loud pop every now and then even after retained power has shut off. I assume it shouldn't do that with no power on.

Edit. I'm sitting in the car with power off more and no amp fuse and I keep hearing my nav DVD drive spool up every few minutes. Don't know if that's related.

 

You are going to have to start pulling things apart and checking the wiring. Learning how to use the DMM will help make the task easier. Make sure you re-read the posts above and understand which wires you should be testing for what, and why.

You've got a strange situation there, and without knowing what the prev. owner did to the car there isn't much more guidance we can give you. Best of luck, let us know what you find.

 

These cars do not turn off completely when you take the key out. there are a bunch of items that stay on for numerous different reasons. That is why you head the DVD drive spin up every once in a while when the car is turned off.

If you were to sit in the car for more than 30 minutes with out opening a door or adjusting anything like windows up down, volume control or a myriad of other things these items would all eventually stop as there is up to 30 minutes of activity depending on the state of the cars computers.

Another thing is many of these items will also turn on when you unlock the car after it has been off for more than 30 minutes.


Couple of questions:

1. Do you have comfort access?

2. have you tried putting anything (piece of card board) between the wiring harness and the chassis of the car?

3. each time you put the amp in the car do you leave the covers off?

Another suggestion i would make is to disconnect the X9331 connector and have a speaker to check the sound with the car off, just power on, and running. This will check the head unit with out having the amp cause any problems with the circuitry.

This will show whether the head unit is really at fault or not. If every thing is okay that way then i would also drive the car to see if that causes any problems with the output of the head unit.

 

Kevin, I will have my roommate help me with the DMM and find the right wires to test.

1. Yes I do.

2. I have not. I could attempt that.

3. No, I button it all up properly before testing again. Seems like each time I disconnect and pull out the amp, it works fine until I start the car.

As far as the x9331, I took your advice from another post I made and already tried that. The speaker works just fine when connected through the x9331. Car off and on. I believe I can rule out the problem being with the head unit.

 

Ok, after looking at and testing lots of connections at the amp connector, my roommate has requested I find him an pinout for the hi-fi amp connector. I did a bit of searching and have yet to find one. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

 

Yep, would be real tough without it. http://www.minitis.com/ is the official resource for consumers & small shops. If you search this site for WDS you can find other sources.

 

Hm... I'll keep searching. I don't want to pay for that site just so I can get one wiring diagram.

 

I found the 12v lead and I get good power. Should it also give me a continuity tone to the chassis?

 

Ok, pin 5 is power. I got power steady there. 33 or 34... that's remote power or whichever that one is, I got steady power there, too. Grounds seem to be grounded as they should be. I see nothing strange with x9331. I pulled trim around the fuse panel in the footwell and found nothing abnormal.

I don't know where to look next.

 

Re-read posts #15 and #28 above. You are looking for a signal-to-ground short, not a power related issue. Either in the path from HU to amp or, more likely, from amp to speakers. You are also looking for DC on the signal side.

 

Thank you Kevin. Forgive my ignorance with this stuff. I default to you guys as experts and your patience and good advice is always greatly appreciated.

My roommate thinks it can't be a speaker issue because the problem exists on all the speakers, not just one but I will check them anyway. Would you mind telling me which pin, or at least what color the signal wire might be? Should I be checking for that short at x9331 or at the amp connector? Again, forgive my ignorance. I know I should have a pro do this since I have only a limited knowledge but I'd like to avoid paying lots for the troubleshooting and I like the accomplished feeling I get when I finish something and it works right haha.

 

You are checking the wiring between amp and speaker, not the speaker itself.

There are 24 wires in question here. As I said before, search this site and you'd find the diagram link.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ck-online.html

I'm gonna have to check out at this point. Best of luck to you.

 

Wow, I feel dumb now. I found the diagram last night but I found it in German. I also found that thread but dismissed it because I kept getting a 404 not found error. Thanks for the spoonfeeding!

Edit: Yup, still 404 errors. Looks like it's back to German!

 

I did my best to check all the speaker wires from the amp connector. Pins 3 and 4 are to the left rear woofer. Looks like I'm getting a tone when I test them to chassis while the car is on. I'm also getting around 9.x volts on it. Not sure what it should be.

 

I'm gonna pull apart the interior tomorrow. I'll let you all know if I happen to find anything peculiar!

 

I would try and run the sound with the panels off and see what happens. Maybe put some card board or something in between the chassis and the wiring harness as well to see if things run properly if they do the it is something in the harness shorting to gound.

But really you should not have any DC voltage on the speaker wires from the amp out put on the amp input.

As for finding someone to help you out with this that is near by to you i have not been able to find anyone. Sorry about that.

 

Ugh, what a pain in the ***. I got the panel off. I'm getting a tone from my dmm when I check the speaker leads. I'm also getting something like 5.72 volts I think if I'm using it right... Any thoughts?

 

Ok, I'm incredibly frustrated. Pulled apart the interior of the car and tested any speaker I could get and in each one I am getting a ground tone from my DMM and voltage. If I understand right, I should not be getting ground from speaker leads. And to top it off, now when I try to hook up a spare speaker to x9331, I get the cone going either one way or the other and staying that way. WHAT NOW!? :(

 

My roommate now agrees I'm getting DC from somewhere. He feels it may be the head unit. Do I have anyone who agrees based on my descriptions? I have hi-fi with nav and bluetooth. Is this what I would need? Would it have to be programmed at the dealer if I end up doing that?

 

dont buy any new or used parts just yet.


Iff you are getting DC at the speakers it would not be caused by the head unit as the amp would block any DC comeing from the head unit before it gets to the speakers.

See my latest PM to you.