Can anyone tell me how to get to the rear speakers to replace them? I've seen posts that say you must remove the rear seat. Is this true and if so, how? This is my first attempt at car audio replacement and would like a step by step on how to get to the 6 X 9's in the back seat area. Thanks for any inputs you may have.

 

Back seat removal

1 Remove seat bench by following this link.
2 Fold seats flat, headrests down.
3 Remove the 10mm bolt from anchor point between the seats.
4 Flip the catch plate on the top of the anchor point upwards freeing the seat pivots.
5 Starting with the left seat (theres a reason for this believe me!!) gently pull the seat pivot upwards and free of the anchorage point but don't tip the seat upwards more than necessary.
6 Whilst applying gentle sidewards pressure to the seat, inwards toward the centre of the car (pull it from the bottom only level with the outer pivot point) tilt the seat fowards and backwards until it frees itself from its outer fixing point. The pivots have two pegs which pop out from the fixing point in the right tilt posistion (usually around 45 degree tilt forwards). Take care not to move the seat too much any other way but forwards and backwards tilt, or the outer fixing point will break. Try to move the seat only as much it does when fixed in place, only allowing just enough tilt to clear the other seat when it pulls free.
7 Repeat for the right side.
8 To rebuild just reverse the sequence. Right seat first, Left second. Notice that the left seat automatically shuts the locking latch when you push it home, that's why you remove it first, replace it last.
9 The 10mm bolt should be 10nm torque but hand tight is ok.
10 On replacing the seat pan, pop the two clips at the front first then with your fists together give a fast and sharp blow downwards on the seat just behind the seat belt anchor points. It should click home. you sometimes dont hear the click but just make sure the seat doesn't pull upwards at the rear.

Now onto the removal of the side panels! There is some debate here. I, personally, removed the side panels in their entirety, by following directions from a MINI2 thread. But I later found pictures on this site that seem to show that you can just remove the grilles over the rear 6x9s. Something to check out for sure. Although, I ran all new wire to my 6x9s, something you would not be able to do by just removing the grille area. So the only real directions I have are to remove the entire rear side panels. Enjoy!

The following taken from a MINI2 thread:
"Once the seats are removed, take off the step panel covering the boot latch. This is held on by 3 plastic fixings on the vertical side and 4 poppers on the horizontal underside.

Remove the 3 screws on the rear side panel just under the light. Disconnect or pop out the light. Then release the multitude of poppers and clips that secure the panel. There are 3 poppers on the centre pillar, 2 poppers and 3 metal clips under the rear side window, and a further popper or two on the back. Careful not to shear the poppers. The panels are on popper clips at the front and round the top, just give the panel a pull (after removing the front door seal obviosly) and it will come loose. Juggle the panel a bit and it should come out. Repeat for the other side."

I paraphrased it a bit. Only thing I would add is to pull the rubber pieces around the seat back mounts out. It's a PITA to deal with. Enjoy. Have beer on hand.

R

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2002 Darksilver/Black Cooper S

 

Davbert,
Thanks for the great pics and instructions. The amount of time you put in to you response is unreal. I was hoping not to upgrade the audio in the MCS, but it sucks to put it mildly.

I'd like an opinion on an idea I have, or anyone else out there. Not being from the "car audio world" and knowing acoustics are much different than studio and home, which I've done, I'm thinking outside the bubble on this.

Reinforce and extend the rear platform of my trunk by 4 inches downward making an enclosed shelf type structure. Place up firing speakers into the MINI and room for the amp on the self under the vent hole in the middle. This would lift for trunk entrance and would not consume any more space than if I built it up from the trunk floor.

If the enclosure were done in a professional manor, you would never know the amp and speakers were there when the back hatch was open, except for the depth. It would rise as it does now with the hatch.

Only thing I'm not sure about and maybe someone out there can help is; what would the electromagnetic effect be between the amp and the speakers, being so close to each other. Car speakers have open magnets. If I put my amp between two speakers and each magnet is only three to four inches away from the amp, am I causing a major distortion problem?

This is just an idea I'm playing with. Any feedback is good.

 

I've never heard of the magenetic field from speakers distorting an amplifier in this way. If there is distortion, you can build a shield simply by finding tin cans big enough to slide over the magnets (be sure the cans are large enough so that the speakers vent freely). You can also drill hole in the cans for better cooling.

If you build your shelf post pictures I would like to see how it turns out.

 

>>PS - Seat removal breaches warranty. :smile: )

Rocketboy_X

 

Boy for a car that screams customization, it's certainly difficult to change some items. What's with the removal of the seat procedure to access the speakers and to install the driving lights :evil:

 

>>Boy for a car that screams customization, it's certainly difficult to change some items. What's with the removal of the seat procedure to access the speakers and to install the driving lights :evil:
>>
>>Didn't have to take the seat out to get the driving light on...

 

>>>>PS - Seat removal breaches warranty. :smile: )
>>
>>Rocketboy_X



R

 

 

 

that's what I spent yesterday doing as well. also added a goodly quantity of Dynamat Extreme inside the speaker wells and everwhere i found a tinny sound when knocking. for example, the panels near the hatch shocks, the panel strip just under the window, the cross member under the seat, both the one with the hinge points and the front, behind the knees , those two round black panels on the bench support, the floor of the trunk, wherever i could reach an exterior body surface (like near the taillights) and the tailgate (removed the panel). made a huge difference.

today i'm matting the doors.

 

>>Now onto the removal of the side panels! There is some debate here. I, personally, removed the side panels in their entirety, by following directions from a MINI2 thread. But I later found pictures on this site that seem to show that you can just remove the grilles over the rear 6x9s. Something to check out for sure.
>>

Does anyone know the proper way to pop off the grilles without damaging them? I would very much like to avoid removing the seats and side panels if I can.

 

>>
>>Does anyone know the proper way to pop off the grilles without damaging them? I would very much like to avoid removing the seats and side panels if I can.


you do not "pop" off the rear grills. you have to pry back the rear panel at the door opening and then unscrew the grills from the inside. there are a lot of screws like 6 or 8, and some of them are behind the foam, so they're a pain to get at. remember you have to do all of this while scrunched up in the back seat. you don't save that much time because you have to work much slower.

in addition, there is high probability that you will unclip the metal retaining clips running along the top of the rear panel at the window (i almost did on both sides, but was able to wiggle them back in), you also have to be careful about lining all the yellow clips back in, otherwise you could break those too.

i do not recommend doing this, having done this already, it is a lot of work. in the end removing the rear seats is a lot less headache.

 

>>you do not "pop" off the rear grills. you have to pry back the rear panel at the door opening and then unscrew the grills from the inside. there are a lot of screws like 6 or 8, and some of them are behind the foam, so they're a pain to get at. remember you have to do all of this while scrunched up in the back seat. you don't save that much time because you have to work much slower.
>>
>>i do not recommend doing this, having done this already, it is a lot of work. in the end removing the rear seats is a lot less headache.
>>

Damn. That's disappointing. But thanks for the helpful info, minhi.

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::Indi Blue MCS, White roof+wheels, All 3 packages:: En route to Chicago on the AIDA