My girlfriend has a 2008 S with the base system...it sounds terrible. So I would like to upgrade the sound on a budget, since she is not an audiophile. A subwoofer might come later, but I was planning on installing the Alpine KTP-445 and bridging it to provide 90 watts per channel to a pair of Alpine S-type 6.5" coaxial speakers in the front doors. I would leave the rear speakers alone and keep the fronts full range until a sub gets added down the road. I would ignore the smaller front door speakers altogether. Does anyone see a problem with this plan? I realize the tweeter placement wouldn't be ideal (although the tweeters do swivel on the SPS speakers), but components would cost more and would require modifications that make the install tougher. I also worry about lack of space for crossovers. I can do my entire install for less than $200.

 

I would probably go ahead and get some components for the front, try looking at the Alpine SPS-610C at Best Buy or similar for around $120. They are a bit more expensive, but getting that tweeter out of the floor will be a big deal. Even if she doesn't know the difference, you will. I figure you've already got the door panel off, you might as well take the time to build a little mounting plate for the tweeter and put it the tweeter in while you are there. Pretty simple. Just a small thin piece of particle board and a jigsaw, or even some thick plastic. If you order from crutchfield they might even have the mounting plate included.

Looks like that the 610C's have integrated crossover, which takes away the need for finding a space for a separate crossover. These are much like my Focal's, where they are designed to replace crappy factory speakers with ease.

Just check that these fit with the depth, I'm pretty sure they do.

Either way you go it will be better than the base stereo, it is hideous!

good luck!

 

Traded my 2009 for 2012 and took out my alpine powerpack and speakers that I had in the 2009. In the 2009 i did the channel swap but had to lower amp gain to 0 because the reminder dong was coming out REAL LOUD (and the 2012 has bluetooth). Wondering if I should set it up differently with this next install. I did not do this: " I flopped the front and rear output of my amp to keep the channel swap intact." I don't understand: if you swapped the front and rear at amp INPUT why would you have to change it on the amp OUTPUT to "keep it intact?"

 

I'm going to do this install with the Alpine components. I'm wondering if anyone thinks I should pick up that wiring harness sold by Integral Audio for ease of installation. Does it have speaker wires coming off it that I can attach to the Alpine Powerpack, and eliminate the need to identify and splice wires? It's worth $100 to me if so.

 

I need some help. I installed the KTP-445U in my 2005 ram 1500 that currently already had a CDE-125BT and all functions worked great, but need more power to drive my kicker speakers, so I installed the KTP-445U and now I only have sound on the radio, but not on CD, AUX, or BT calls.

What do you think is wrong?

 

Well, I had the work done on my girlfriend's R56. The shop did a horrible job. It sounds decent but I will never go back to Rollin' Sound on Philips Highway.

First, they didn't use the A pillars with tweeter holes that I spent $100 on and provided for them. They finished the job and said they couldnt put the tweeters there andjust mounted them in the door instead.

Second, they did not put the trim pieces in the back together right. I had to take them all out and do it over.

Third, they did not make the carpeted false floor that I asked for.

Fourth, they left wires exposed, looking amateurish.

Fifth, a I found five screws on the floor and dont know where they go. The trim on the driver side where the vent is by the radio is loose, and I am wondering if there is supposed to be a panel above the pedals...there is nothing there right now, and the metal is all exposed behind the pedals. Is this normal, or is there carpet or trim there?

Sixth, they left panel removing tools still stuck under some trim panels in the back! They also left wire clippings all over the floor.

It sounds okay, but they did a terrible job. I feel like someone at Best Buy would have done better. This shop was recommended by the MINI dealership. I need to figure out where these screws go, and if there is trim missing, I will go back and have them fix their mistakes.

 

If you're only getting sound with the radio source, make certain that the Amp/Remote turn-on wire is connected to an Accessory power source, or the Blue/White wire from the radio. Right now, it is more than likely connected to the SOLID blue wire, which is meant for power antenna; thus, the amp is only turning on with the radio, and not anything else.

Hopefully this helps.

 

I have a 2010 convertible with the base stereo. I've replaced the front speakers with Polk Audio db650/350 Speakers. Since the rear speakers in a convertible are round 6" and not the 6x9 in the hardtop, I never did the channel swap. Would the amp be useful in this situation? I'm not an audiophile and I don't blast my music, but I'd like to improve the sound quality. Thanks!

 

I basically did the same, upgraded my front speakers and installed KTP-445U. Definitely worth it. Since the KTP-445U "over-rides" the internal amp there is no need to channel swap. You can adjust gain for front and rear speakers to get the sound you want based on the speakers you have.

 

This is a great write up. I have the same amp and same Focals coming as we speak. Can you talk about how you bridged the Alpine amp? It says it's not meant to do that...but you found a way around that?

 

There are some dip switches on the amp that allow you to put it into 2 channel mode.

One thing I found confusing was the colors of the dip switch diagram on the amp, the white printing makes it look like you are supposed to put it one way when it goes the opposite. Refer to the dip switch diagram in the instruction manual to see a little better representation of the switches.

 

Great...thanks for the heads up. My stuff should arrive tomorrow.

 

I'm a little confused about my Focal 165 IS. Do the tweeters connect to those additional tabs on the woofers? Or do you wire them completely separately?

 

Straight to the additional tabs on the woofer. The wire the woofer to the wire coming from radio.

Make sure you use a decent material to make the little bracket/template to mount your tweeter. I used some 1/8" thick plastic and cut it with a jigsaw. Or, I guess if you bought it from crutch field thy might supply you with those adapters.

 

Thanks again. I'm still struggling with the wiring a bit.

Check this photo out...what's my connection point? I was going to wire a steel bracket to mount the tweeter on.

I have to say...this Focal wiring diagram is the worst install instruction I've ever seen!

 

I'm wired now...question for you @digitalsabre. Since I basically eliminated the 4" speakers from the front audio system, and am just using the 6.5's with the tweeters connected to them, do I need to do anything special with the wiring? Or should I wire the tweeters back up to the 4" speaker wires?

 

If you are using all of the factory wiring, then I think you can just use the wires that are there. I can't remember what I did. You could just use a short peice of your own wire and run it between your woofer and tweeter.

I was just now seeing the pic of the speaker connector in the previous post. Did you ever figure out what that 'extra' terminal connector was? I don't recall that on mine.

 

I ended up wiring + tweeter and + woofer to the right most positive terminal (crimped together) and ran negatives separately.

My question is...what happens to the factory wires for the 4"? Where do they connect?

Also Sabre...I switched the amp in the 2 channel mode with the dipswitches. Does that automatically mean it's bridged now?

Finally...can I run the 6X9's from the HU built in power? I have an alpine head unit...I figure I might as well connect the 6X9's since they are there, right?

So...my set up is Alpine head unit. Front RCA's IN to the Alpine amp. Switched into 2 channel mode, and wired according to the diagram. Then, Alpine plug from head unit to the rear factory speakers. Will that work?

 

Yes that sound like a plan. The rear speakers aren't really worth putting much power to because of the enclosure, running off head unit will be fine.

I think you've got it all hooked up correctly. As long as your wiring from the amp to the woofer an then from the woofer to the tweeters is correct.

 

"Do a search on here for x9331 connector and you will see where it is and see many diagrams on the wire colors" Search as I might on x9331, I can't find the wiring diagram. I'm a little embarrassed, but can someone direct me to a link? Thanks for the advice and help.

 

Found it for HiFi: Code: Pin Code Size DIN color English colour Function 1 31 2.5 BR Brown Ground (heater blower motor) 2 NF_HL- 0.75 BL/SW Blue/Black Audio rear left (-) 3 NF_VR+ 0.75 GE/BR Yellow/Brown Audio front right (+) 4 NF_VR- 0.75 GE/SW Yellow/Black Audio front right (-) 5 NF_VL+ 0.75 SW/RT Black/Red Audio front left (+) 6 NF_VL- 0.75 SW/VI Black/Violet Audio front left (-) 7 NF_HR+ 0.75 BR/OR Brown/Orange Audio rear right (+) 8 NF_HR- 0.75 GE/RT Yellow/Red Audio rear right (-) 9 31 0.75 BR Brown Ground (audio system) 10 NF_HL+ 0.75 BL/BR Blue/Brown Audio rear left (+) 11 S_50 2.5 WS White Starter (ignition lock) 12 31 1.5 BR Brown Ground (IHKS/CAS/Tach./Instr./OBDII/CD changer/CID/many more) And for the boost Code: FR = front right FL = front left RR - rear right RL = rear left ORIGINAL sig color what pin TTHL- BL/SW RL- 2 MTVR+ GE/BR FR+ 3 MTVR- GE/SW FR- 4 MTVL+ SW/RT FL+ 5 MTVL- SW/VI FL- 6 TTHR+ BR/OR RR+ 7 TTHR- GE/RT RR- 8 TTHL+ BL/BR RL+ 10 Colors: SW black BR brown RT red OR orange GE yellow VI violet

The Boost and the HiFi seem to be the same.

 

I had quite a fright on this. I un-hooked the negative ground from the battery. Then, one by one, I cut the speaker wires at the X9331 adapter. I put spade connectors on the ends and reattached the speaker wires together, figuring I'd check my connections, and then insert the amp. I reconnected the X9331. I reconnected battery, and and tried starting the car. It wouldn't start, I get tons of error lights and the wipers go on and won't turn off. After turning the car on an off, wiggling the two ends of the X9331, and paying particular attention to the white wire which goes to the starter, hooking and unhooking the connector above the X9331, unhooking the battery etc, I get the car to start and the wipers to operate normally. Now the only problem is a have an airbag light and I'm afraid to try and install the amp. As I was putting the X9331 and the connector above it back into the stud and turning in clockwise to lock it, I seemed to get a shock from the connector above the X9331. I disconnected the battery, unclipped both connectors and reconnected them. I think one or both of the connectors were not seated originally, although I had checked them. Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated. Edit I guess I've gone this far, and will probably install the amp, since the cutting into the car is done. I now have to figure out which direction from the x9331 goes to the head unit and which goes to the speakers. I put the spade connectors below the connector and I've attached a pic. Can anyone guide me on this? Once I have the amp in, then I'll reset the airbag light. Thanks in advance.

 

The female side of the X9331 comes from the radio.

 

Sometimes things like that happen when the battery is not connected tightly.

 

Thanks for the advice on the X9331 direction and a loose battery connection possibly causing these problems. I'll try and hook up the amp tonight. My local dealer quoted me a airbag reset fee of $225 but I found an independent who will it for $68. I noticed last night that my sport button is not working. The light was on, but it didn't make any difference whether it was on or off. I wonder if the airbag lights are on with that they disconnect the sport? That seems kind of strange.