Navigation & Audio Pac Swi-jack ?
Pac Swi-jack ?
I just finished installing my new JVC HU and was really upset that I can't use my steering wheel controls. Has anybody had any luck with this PAC SWI-JACK product? It makes me really iffy to start splicing into the steering column, so I want any input at all.
Not sure how much help this is, but I just finished installing an SWI-PS (for Pioneer & Sony) in my wife's CR-V and it really wasn't too bad. It was definitely the hardest part of the whole install because it required tapping into two factory harnesses and some close quarters soldering, but overall not too bad. You may be able to get away with some kind of connectors but I learned how to solder just to get this done because they are such thin gauge wires. Good luck!
I installed one in my Tahoe for my pioneer deck a while back, and it wasn't hard at all, just some vampire taps and butt connectors.
I ordered one for my mini that should be in this week so I'll let you know when I get around to installing it (very soon after it comes in, I'm sure). Right now I'm trying to deal with my new component speakers...
I ordered one for my mini that should be in this week so I'll let you know when I get around to installing it (very soon after it comes in, I'm sure). Right now I'm trying to deal with my new component speakers...
Okay, so my pac adaptor came in the mail and I finally installed it. Here are some issues I ran into, and how I solved them. I'm using the PAC-PS for pioneer and sony stereo's. The directions MAY be different if you are using a different model, but I doubt it if you're installing on a 2002-2006 mini.
First, I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Then I cut every wire but the black/red and yellow ones. On the mini's the yellow wire connects to a wire in the steering column. It took me some time to figure out what wire and where it was.
Next, I dropped the shroud covering the bottom of the column. There's two torx screws right around the adjustment lever, then you just pull down. The adjustment lever has to come through the column shroud, so you'll have to play with it a little bit.
Then I looked around for the wire. It's a white and red wire with yellow dots. It's in a white plug that you'll find in the center of the column where the wheel meets the column. Snip the wire coming out of the wheel and connect the yellow (or whatever color the instructions say to use) wire to the white/red/yellow wire.

Then you need to find a SWITCHED 12V source. I tried to vampire tap into the stereo wires, but for some reason I couldn't get the unit to program for the right version. It kept coming up with 3 flashing lights. After an hour of this crap, I looked into trouble shooting and found I was connected to a constant source. I tried to use the 15amp radio fuse in the fuse panel, but same thing. Then I tried the 5amp radio fuse and it worked perfectly.

I programmed my volume and track up/down buttons, and used the Telephone button to mute the volume. The R/T button is non-configurable according to PAC.
I used double sided tape to mount the pac adaptor on the inside of the driver's side knee bolster.
It took a while to figure out where everything went, but once I did it was pretty easy. Highly recommended for aftermarket radios, and I got mine for about half price ($40) on amazon.
First, I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Then I cut every wire but the black/red and yellow ones. On the mini's the yellow wire connects to a wire in the steering column. It took me some time to figure out what wire and where it was.
Next, I dropped the shroud covering the bottom of the column. There's two torx screws right around the adjustment lever, then you just pull down. The adjustment lever has to come through the column shroud, so you'll have to play with it a little bit.
Then I looked around for the wire. It's a white and red wire with yellow dots. It's in a white plug that you'll find in the center of the column where the wheel meets the column. Snip the wire coming out of the wheel and connect the yellow (or whatever color the instructions say to use) wire to the white/red/yellow wire.

Then you need to find a SWITCHED 12V source. I tried to vampire tap into the stereo wires, but for some reason I couldn't get the unit to program for the right version. It kept coming up with 3 flashing lights. After an hour of this crap, I looked into trouble shooting and found I was connected to a constant source. I tried to use the 15amp radio fuse in the fuse panel, but same thing. Then I tried the 5amp radio fuse and it worked perfectly.

I programmed my volume and track up/down buttons, and used the Telephone button to mute the volume. The R/T button is non-configurable according to PAC.
I used double sided tape to mount the pac adaptor on the inside of the driver's side knee bolster.
It took a while to figure out where everything went, but once I did it was pretty easy. Highly recommended for aftermarket radios, and I got mine for about half price ($40) on amazon.
PAC SWI-JACK works fine after realizing programing error
Nick5811 - thanks so much for taking the time to post the photo's of the red and white wire with yellow dots to cut behind the steering wheel. That was the one step that was a bit intimidating. I was hesitant to blindly cut a wire without knowing if my SWI-JACK was even going to work. After seeing your post and photo I decided to man up and cut the wire. Long story but it works great with my new Kenwood KDC-X994 head unit. I was able to program the R/T button even though the instructions said it wouldn't work. I programed the R/T button to change the source on the HU and it works fine.
I misread the instructions about how to program the unit and nearly pulled my hair out in fistfuls until I realized what I was doing wrong. I thought you needed to turn the rotary binary switch from position 1 to program the first steering wheel button then quickly rotate it to position 2 for the next button and so on all the way around skipping the functions you didn't want to program. This was virtually impossible but I did manage to do it once and the SWI-JACK obviously didn't work. I finally realized that the rotary binary switch just needs to be positioned once for the type of head unit (position 3 in my case for the Kenwood radio) and then you leave it alone. Once I realized the stupid mistake programing the unit was a breeze and it worked the first time.
The PAC SWI-JACK works fine on my 2006 R53 cooper with the stock radio, no navigation without the Harmon Kardon radio. nice to have the steering wheel buttons with the after market radio.
I misread the instructions about how to program the unit and nearly pulled my hair out in fistfuls until I realized what I was doing wrong. I thought you needed to turn the rotary binary switch from position 1 to program the first steering wheel button then quickly rotate it to position 2 for the next button and so on all the way around skipping the functions you didn't want to program. This was virtually impossible but I did manage to do it once and the SWI-JACK obviously didn't work. I finally realized that the rotary binary switch just needs to be positioned once for the type of head unit (position 3 in my case for the Kenwood radio) and then you leave it alone. Once I realized the stupid mistake programing the unit was a breeze and it worked the first time.
The PAC SWI-JACK works fine on my 2006 R53 cooper with the stock radio, no navigation without the Harmon Kardon radio. nice to have the steering wheel buttons with the after market radio.
I programed the R/T button to change the source on the HU and it works fine.
I misread the instructions about how to program the unit and nearly pulled my hair out in fistfuls until I realized what I was doing wrong.
The PAC SWI-JACK works fine on my 2006 R53 cooper with the stock radio, no navigation without the Harmon Kardon radio. nice to have the steering wheel buttons with the after market radio.
Looks like I managed to trip the air bag light along the way. did a little reading hear and it looks like there might be some tools available to reset the light that are cheaper than a single trip to the dealer.
Trending Topics
this POS stopped working for no apparent reason....
I had to disconnect the battery a while back when I was running the wires for the sub. Since that time, the sw adaptor stopped working. I finally got around to reprogramming it, but it wouldn't work.
I programmed it to 'version 5' like PAC's website said, and then I went through the process of holding down the buttons to program them, but it never worked out right. After spending HOURS trying to program it, I ripped it out of the car and threw it against the sidewalk. It broke into at least three pieces, only two of which I found.
I felt better afterward, and since it wasn't working anyways it's not like I lost out.
Not sure if I'll waste another $45 buying a replacement, since this one took a $*@% after less than 6 months. The one in my tahoe works fine still though, and it's been in since 2008.
I programmed it to 'version 5' like PAC's website said, and then I went through the process of holding down the buttons to program them, but it never worked out right. After spending HOURS trying to program it, I ripped it out of the car and threw it against the sidewalk. It broke into at least three pieces, only two of which I found.
I felt better afterward, and since it wasn't working anyways it's not like I lost out.
Not sure if I'll waste another $45 buying a replacement, since this one took a $*@% after less than 6 months. The one in my tahoe works fine still though, and it's been in since 2008.
Okay, so my pac adaptor came in the mail and I finally installed it. Here are some issues I ran into, and how I solved them. I'm using the PAC-PS for pioneer and sony stereo's. The directions MAY be different if you are using a different model, but I doubt it if you're installing on a 2002-2006 mini.
First, I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Then I cut every wire but the black/red and yellow ones. On the mini's the yellow wire connects to a wire in the steering column. It took me some time to figure out what wire and where it was.
Next, I dropped the shroud covering the bottom of the column. There's two torx screws right around the adjustment lever, then you just pull down. The adjustment lever has to come through the column shroud, so you'll have to play with it a little bit.
Then I looked around for the wire. It's a white and red wire with yellow dots. It's in a white plug that you'll find in the center of the column where the wheel meets the column. Snip the wire coming out of the wheel and connect the yellow (or whatever color the instructions say to use) wire to the white/red/yellow wire.

Then you need to find a SWITCHED 12V source. I tried to vampire tap into the stereo wires, but for some reason I couldn't get the unit to program for the right version. It kept coming up with 3 flashing lights. After an hour of this crap, I looked into trouble shooting and found I was connected to a constant source. I tried to use the 15amp radio fuse in the fuse panel, but same thing. Then I tried the 5amp radio fuse and it worked perfectly.

I programmed my volume and track up/down buttons, and used the Telephone button to mute the volume. The R/T button is non-configurable according to PAC.
I used double sided tape to mount the pac adaptor on the inside of the driver's side knee bolster.
It took a while to figure out where everything went, but once I did it was pretty easy. Highly recommended for aftermarket radios, and I got mine for about half price ($40) on amazon.
First, I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Then I cut every wire but the black/red and yellow ones. On the mini's the yellow wire connects to a wire in the steering column. It took me some time to figure out what wire and where it was.
Next, I dropped the shroud covering the bottom of the column. There's two torx screws right around the adjustment lever, then you just pull down. The adjustment lever has to come through the column shroud, so you'll have to play with it a little bit.
Then I looked around for the wire. It's a white and red wire with yellow dots. It's in a white plug that you'll find in the center of the column where the wheel meets the column. Snip the wire coming out of the wheel and connect the yellow (or whatever color the instructions say to use) wire to the white/red/yellow wire.

Then you need to find a SWITCHED 12V source. I tried to vampire tap into the stereo wires, but for some reason I couldn't get the unit to program for the right version. It kept coming up with 3 flashing lights. After an hour of this crap, I looked into trouble shooting and found I was connected to a constant source. I tried to use the 15amp radio fuse in the fuse panel, but same thing. Then I tried the 5amp radio fuse and it worked perfectly.

I programmed my volume and track up/down buttons, and used the Telephone button to mute the volume. The R/T button is non-configurable according to PAC.
I used double sided tape to mount the pac adaptor on the inside of the driver's side knee bolster.
It took a while to figure out where everything went, but once I did it was pretty easy. Highly recommended for aftermarket radios, and I got mine for about half price ($40) on amazon.
Sorry for digging up an such an old thread. Photos here were really helpful, but...
fyi, when I tested this fuse the forward position was the hot side of the fuse. If this car is wired the same, there is no fuse protection for this connection.
fyi, when I tested this fuse the forward position was the hot side of the fuse. If this car is wired the same, there is no fuse protection for this connection.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Navigation & Audio HK Replacement With New Components
Filmy
Navigation & Audio
15
Jun 6, 2023 06:27 AM
Navigation & Audio Installing the PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Filmy
Navigation & Audio
6
Jun 28, 2016 08:58 AM



