I've already scuffed my interior trying to remove the rear speaker grills (grrr!)

I just got my Polk MMC690 6x9 speakers and was trying to get to the rear speakers. The only threads tht I've found with pics show complete removal or opening of the interior panel next to the rear seats.

Also, I noticed the HK speakers are 2OHM and I don't have the HK system. does that mean my Boost head unit is putting out 4 OHM? (I hope). My new Polks are rated at 4 ohm not 2 ohm.

ANY pictures of panel or grill removal would be helpful at this stage.

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Don't bother trying to remove the rear speaker grills - you'll just do more damage. The best way is to remove the rear seats and then the entire rear panels.

Good way to get to know your MINI! :smile:

 

>>Don't bother trying to remove the rear speaker grills - you'll just do more damage. The best way is to remove the rear seats and then the entire rear panels.

Yes, most of us that have upgraded front and rear speakers have left the stock grille covers in place. While it is possible to rip out the stock speaker grilles it would be pretty messy and the shape is not quite the right pattern for aftermarket grilles. Moreover the stock grilles will allow the MINI to look stock which is better from not being bothered by thieves.

Your new rear Polk speakers should still work OK.
The stock 6x9 speaker has the following markings on the magnet:
5 Ohms 15 W

 

>>The stock 6x9 speaker has the following markings on the magnet:
>>5 Ohms 15 W

How bizzare. 5 Ohms is not typical but if you're still using the stock head unit, you could be in trouble. Automotive drivers have a nominal impedence of 4 ohms, which means their mid-to-high frequency impedence could be as low as 2 ohms. Being that the stock "full-range" speaker is a single unit, it probably doesn't go below 4 ohms. Becareful when you crank it up. If you begin to hear crackling or other non-musical noises, turn it down immediately. There may not be enough impedence in the speakers. You can always insert a serial resistor to boost the impedence.

 

complete tangent
Dances - your intentions are good, but I'm going to have to shoot down your generalization. In the loudspeaker industry, "nominal impedence" (Ze) is typically advertised simliar to "DC resistance" (Re), to reduce the exact possibility you described - overloading the amplifiers output stages. Some drivers with huge inductive swings may underscore the Ze rating significantly, however this is typical of high-excursion drivers NOT found in low-cost OE designs like the MINI (boost or H/K), and will be noted in the driver specification accordingly.

Personally - I wouldn't replace the drivers without changing the amplification and passive circuitry (if any) to properly compliment your acoustic goals. If MINI and Alpine and Harman are using slightly esoteric impedence specification, you always want to error on the high side for a replacement driver (i.e. >5ohm Ze). If you feel compelled to use your low impedence driver, impliment an L-pad accordingly.
tangent complete

Yea, I think you need to remove the whole side panel to access the rear speaker. Good luck!