Hey.

I first want to say that this site is awesome and I just would never be able to do this all on my own if it wasn't for your sharing.

I am a newbie when it comes to car stereo installs but I am going to do it anyway. I am very handy and know home audio (completely different I know)... but I am confident it will go smoothly.

After some good hours of research, this is what I have decided to go for:

Amp..............................Boston Acoustics GT-5750
Front Component.............Boston Acoustics ProSeries 60SE
Rear 6 x 9......................Boston Acoustics SR95
Subwoofer.....................Boston Acoustics G310-44
Subwoofer Level Control...Boston Acoustics GT-RSL
Sub Enclosure.................Urban Mini
Tweeter Holder...............Urban Mini
Sound Deadener..............RAAMmat BXT
14g Speaker Wire............?

All together it is $1500 bucks (from various online retailers), which is good for that type of install, and also right at my budget. I think it is a pretty good setup, but what do you think? Do you see any potential problems with this setup?

I will definitely be planning on doing the "Front/Rear Channel Swap." I will install the amp in the back as designed with the Urban Mini Sub Enclosure. I am not sure about the wiring yet, but I will figure it out before the install.

Hopefully you will help and join in my progress through this post. I am planning on working on this with my buddy over a long weekend in garage (into the night if neccisary) and will track my progress with notes + pictures. I want to give some newbie project tracking to help make others confident.

Would love your feedback, support, and advice!!

Cheers.

Simba

 

Will be adding this to my install:

""" willahlborn

Finally: A solution to that missing amp remote signal source?
Here's a link to the product:

http://www.amazon.com/TR-4-Low-Volta.../dp/B0002J22BE

"Module senses voltages as low as 0.8v and provides a 12v output with a 1-second delay. Can be triggered off of speaker leads or +5 remote wires."

So... connect this to a constant 12v power source, connect the signal wire to a positive speaker lead, and the output to the amp's remote input. It even has a 1 second delay to avoid any potential "pop" through the speakers... how cool is that? I'm ordering now; I'll post back after it's installed to confirm it works.

"""

 

Hey Y'all, me again.

Follow my post, I would really love to hear from some of you. It would make my minute.

I have decided to not go with the Boston Acoustics Amp. Its a great Amp I am sure, but it will never fit anywhere (especially in the Urban Mini box). It's 23" long!

One thing I really like about the BAcoustics Amp was the Base Volume Dial (Subwoofer Level Control...Boston Acoustics GT-RS).

See pic here: http://www.bostonacoustics.com/GT-RSL-P620.aspx

So I think I will go with my second choice, the Alpine PDX-5. Awesome amp! I just wish I could have some type of bass volume control like the BAcoustics does? Any ideas there?

Other questions. The X9331... crafty little devil.

I am going to swap front channel to rear channel. I was looking into adapters but they are too pricy and seem to be more of a hassle then worth to uphold factory integrity.

I was wondering however, how do you wire the subwoofer/amp into this? Do you need to solder?

Another question regarding crossovers. The Boston Acoustics crossovers for the front component speakers. Do you need to use these? I know there are crossovers built into the amp, but do you use both?

Thanks for your help. Peace. Simba

 

The amps you are looking at do not have line level inputs, so you'll need a way to convert the signal from your stock stereo into a low level signal (i.e., line level-->RCA outputs). One way you can do this is by using an aftermarket sound processor. The JLAudio Cleansweep and Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty products are popular choices. At least one of them does have a bass volume control **** I believe. Using these products would also provide you a remote signal to switch your amp on, which will prevent you from having to use the PAC Audio product I found on Amazon.

Or, you could just find an amp you like that has line level inputs. This would be less expensive.

It depends on how important it is to you to retain the ability to fade front to rear on your headunit. If you'd like, you can use the front channels as the source for your entire system--the amp can then distribute that signal to both your fronts, rears, and sub. The only reason I personally can think of to continue using the rear channel's output from the headunit is if you have the park distance control, which from what I understand is only output through the rear speakers. If you get a sound processor, I believe the unit will take the radio's output from front and rear channels and fill in the rear channel's missing frequencies using the input from the fronts. The other option (which is what I'm doing) is tapping into the front channel's output and plugging it into my amp's line level inputs.

You don't need to solder. If you'd like to tap into a wire without cutting it, you can use these:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP60...it.html?tp=990

And if you'd like to convert your stereo's high level output to low level, compatible with your amp's RCA input without spending $$$$$$ on a sound processor, you can use this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SLC4...4.html?tp=2001

You need to use those crossovers. The amp does not have separate crossovers built in for distributing sound between mids and tweeters.

I'm about to embark on a similar mission, but I'm going much more "budget install" than you are. I think whatever choices you make, if you are sticking with the gear you mentioned in your first post, your system is going to sound tops.

 

Hi All...Ya know Kenwood has several really neet amps that have both line level inputs and signal sensing auto power-on (KAC 7205-170 watts/2 channels & KAC 8405-60 watts/4 channels). They are specifically designed to facilitate stock stereo upgrades, like where changing the headunit is not feasible, like the MINI. They were brought to my attention by the people at NewMiniStuff in the UK. They have all sorts of great stuff to upgrade your sound. I bought a wiring harness to splice an amp into the system and new A-Pillar covers with the tweeter holes and a couple other things. You can contact them here: http://www.newministuff.com/new/index.php
Look under Audio Upgrades.

I'm personally a fan of running the entire system as a 2 channel setup driving off the front only. My 2 cents

 

I used the MTX re-Q5 speaker level to line level converter. It is a really nice unit. it has gain control for Front, Rear, and Sub, including and adjustable low pass filter for the sub. All you need to do is connect the front and rear inputs and it automatically provides a separate signal for the subs. Pretty nifty gadget. Here is the link to Crutchfield, but I got mine from a power seller thu ebay for $90.

 

Thanks for your replies: I have alot of questions and my own replies. Thanks for sticking with me.

I think am going to go with Hellchicken's idea:

The MTX re-Q5 is really cool. It will give me some volume control, it will distribute my bass evenly and accurately, and control bass levels at different gains. It also solves my problem of 'line level speaker output from HU' to 'high level RCA inputs on the amp.' The auxiliary input is a nice addition and would be sick if I didn't have one already, but I am sure I can find an interesting way to use it. The volume dial I suppose is used for the auxiliary input? Also, one potential problem with this unit could be that it provides too much bass. I dont want to blow anything up or anything; I mostly listen to rock over hip hop but love bass. It seems like a good unit however.

Regarding the Front and Rear Channel Swap

Firstly, the option of running just off the front speakers. This could be possible but I see some potential problems. One, I have bluetooth for my phone. I know this plays through the front speakers, but may be too much coming from all the speakers (like a really loud speaker phone on the other end or something). Also, the seatbelt alert... I dont always wear my seatbelt for short trips to the market down the street or whatever and the thing is already loud as hello. I think it would be overbearing in all the speakers.

Also, if I am to get the MTX re-Q, it wouldn't matter.. I could just use all 4 channels (front and back). So if I am going to use all four channels, the question now is, should I still swap the channels?

I think the MTX re-Q could just take all signals and properly filter it where it needs to go, and it would be unnecessary to swap the channels. Do you agree? Or do you deem it worthy to still swap the channels?

Tapping into the X9331:

Thanks for this info. If I am using the MTX re-Q, I guess i would not need to tap into a wire for a signal. It takes 4 inputs and produces 6 outputs (or rather it takes inputs from the front and rear channels and distributes it back + subwoofer).

Wiring Questions:

I am still wondering how I run the cables however. Do I run them directly from the X9331 to the MTX re-Q, or do I run them from the speakers themselves; pull the speaker wire off speakers, add an extender, and extend the wire from there to the boot (where I will store the Amp and the MTX re-Q). This would save me wiring distance, especially for the rear speakers, but I am concerned about signal (from splicing wires together, mixing gauge etc.) What gauge wire is the mini stock using? Whats the best way to wire?

Peace and Thanks.

Simba

 

It seems you have a couple of options.

1. X9331-->MTX re-Q-->Amp-->X9331-->Speakers
(This option uses all of the factory speaker wiring, which you may or may not want to do)

2. X9331--MTX re-Q-->Amp-->X9331 for fronts--Front Speakers
(Then you can run your own speaker wire to the rears for a direct connection to your amp--this may be better if you'd like to send more power to those 6x9s via gain control on the amp)

I really don't see a way to run your own speaker cable into the doors. Seems difficult/impossible due to the way the car is setup with that dang molex connector.

 

If you don't see a way to run your own speaker wire into the door, how will I run cabling to x9331 (which is on the door)?

Is there no way to run cabling from the AMP to the front speakers. Isn't it important to have the power up in the front too?

Apart from that, lets say I go with option 2.

How do I run cables from the x9331 to the AMP and back to the x9331. How do I patch into the x9331. I understand I would use that 'Wire Connector Kit' as seen here:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP60...it.html?tp=990

But the x9331 needs to stay connected together (so that ground and whatever else besides the speaker channels can pass through it).

If I am running off the x9331 to the amp and back to the x9331, wouldn't I need to unplug pins from the x9331 so that the signal just doesn't bypass the amp (path of least resistance)?

So running the fronts from the amp back to the x9331 would disable my use of gain control via the amp / MTX re-Q? This isnt so cool. I would like to have full range of control (but perhaps not necessary)?

 

If you can picture this... in your factory stereo, signal comes from your head unit and goes to the X9331 connector.. which is not in the door, it's in the driver's footwell. Signal passes through the X9331 connector and is distributed to the four speaker locations (doors, and rear seat locations). The reason you can't run your own speaker wire into the doors is because the wires from the door don't run uninterrupted into the car through a grommet--they terminate in a molex plug in the door jam. So, it is necessary to use the Mini's wiring to connect your amp to the door speakers--at least for the short journey between the X9331 connector and the door speakers themselves. The functionality of your amp and MTX re-Q will be identical to a system where you have a single run of speaker wire from the amp to each individual speaker. The only reason it might be preferable to run speaker wire directly from the amp to the rear speakers is that your 6x9s have a greater frequency range than your 6.5" speakers in the doors, and could probably benefit from more power to provide more fill/midbass. You could use the factory wiring between X9331 and the rear speakers for this, but run the risk of overheating those smaller-gauge stock speaker wires if you crank up the gain.

There are 12 wires in the X9331 harness that connect to speakers. The others need to stay connected. You will need to selectively cut the speaker wires a couple inches from the connector and connect the side coming from the radio to the MTX unit, and the side going to the speakers to the amp. The signal from the radio will then pass through the MTX unit, then the amp, and finally the speakers. Got it?

EDIT: Sorry, only 8 wires go to speakers... the other four go to other equipment in the car and need to remain connected.

 

Got it. I understand completely now. Thanks!

Would some people have a problem with cutting the wires going to and from the x9331 (in order to retain factory integrity)?

If so, what could you do so that you would not have to cut the wires? Pull the pins out of the x9331 (using that tool they talk about to do the channel swap), right?

 

New wiring to the front door speakers is not easy but can be done. It is actually more time consuming that hard to do. It is just a very small area to work in making it time consuming.

This thread has picture and some explanation of what I did to get two wires into each door.

Other have run one new sire and put the crossover in the door handle if it will fit. mine were to large for that.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-upgrades.html

 

see above post about running speaker wire to front doors

With the amp he has specified it would be worth while to run new wire into the doors as the overheating is also possible to the front door speakers as well.

Search around here and you will find that there are many people that have made a wireing harness to use between the two halves of the X9331 connector. The connector body parts and pins are readily available from at least two or three sources.

In other words make a cable harness that has the ground and couple other wires as pass thru and then the cable for the input and output of the amp run to where ever the amp is. newministuff.com makes a bunch of different harnesses for the 2nd gen MINIs for audio connections. They even make them with speaker level to low level converters built in.

Really read and search thru this section and you will find a more info that will be helpful to you.

BTW there is a amp turn on line in the connector that the X9331 is connected to. I believe it is Pin 1 in the X15 connector. Not sure if anyone has ever used it form there but it is available at the back of the radio.

Also to tmacdmb, which audio system you you have. Channel swap is only required on the Base system. HiFi and H/K systems are full frequency on all channels out of the head unit.

 

I took one look at how skinny the rubber sheath is between the door and the body, one look at the harness connector under the boot, and decided I didn't want to mess with it. Good to know you were able to get it to work.

With regard to a ready made X9331 harness... Good point, no cutting required. I don't think I'm even going to bother with the plastic connector... just run to Radio Shack, purchase some generic male and female molex pins, and run them between the two sides of X9331 so I can wire it however I want.

 

Let me try to answer a few of your questions..

I ran them from the x9331 connector (female side goes to stereo) to re-Q5. From there I had RCA cables to the amp. One note... the Re-Q5 has speaker level sense to turn it on, but did not attempt to wire it this way. The Mini head unit does not put out DC output to the speaker lines, so it can still be done by selecting AC and fine tunning the re-q5 to detect audio to turn it on, but I was concerned with it turning on/off since the door chimer is sent via speaker line. I connected the blue remote wire to the 12VDC accessory power in the rear of the car. Works perfect without any noise. Also the Re-Q5 has remote output to send to your amp.

Regarding the speaker swap. Since you are sending front/rear to Re-Q5 it is very easy for you to swap if you want. I didn't bother with it since I was running a sub for lows. There are two ways to activate the sub output from the Re-Q5. 1) you let the unit sum the channels to provide the sub output, 2) you can tie the sub input lines to the unit with the front signal (right or left). I did noticed that using option 2 will slightly improve the bass response, but option 1 will is the cleaner choice. All depends if you want all the extra kick to the bass. I guess it is due to the fact that reQ5 must sum all the channels and since the rear puts out less bass it reduces the overall output.

Regarding running wires from your speakers to reQ5. That is totally fine. I think it is easier going from the x9331 (at least for the front speaker). I just figured that if I'm having to hack the x9331 connector for the front speaker I'd just as well do all the speaker lines. You can run thinner 20 gauge wires for that. I actually cut the lines, soldered my connections and used shrinkable tubing to complete the speaker line tap.

Regarding running speaker wires to the door. I did just that. It really was not as hard as I thought it was going to be. Let me share what worked for me. Remove the connector from the body of the car. It takes a 10mm socket. Pull the slide from the top of the connector and comes right apart. (Just like the air bag connector under the seat). Now there isn't much room to fit a wire plus the connector back in. I used a 16 gauge wires and I had to find a sweet spot (running the wire toward the bottom of the hole on the body) Hard to describe... you;ll just have to play around and find a way to run the wire so that you can screw the connector back to the body of the car. Perhaps a little thinner wire would make it easier, but it is possible with 16 gauge... I did it. Now that you have the connector removed and you are ready to run the wire into the car, you will find that there is a foam material between the inside of the car and the connector hole leading to the outside of the car. I guess this was put in there to keep some moisture out?? Don't know, but I used a chopstick, taped the speaker wire to it with electrical tape, and forced the chopstick through the foam. You can then reach from the inside to feel for the chopstick and pull your wire through. It may be harder to reach behind the dash if you have very large hands. Oh yeah... I forgot... you use the same chopstick to thread the wire through the rubber tubing connecting the wires from the door to the inside of the car.

Man... feels like I'm writing a book here. Good luck!!

 

Is is necessary to run speaker wire to the doors?

------------------------------------------------------------

Will performance / quality be lost if I simply run off the factory wiring from the x9331 to the front doors? Will I lose power / or sound quality? Do I really run the risk of "over heating"? What does this mean?

Overall the wiring through the front doors seems to be harder than removing the back seats! It seems to be the most difficult task, but perhaps I am over thinking. I want to do it right (no doubt), but I am not convinced it is even necessary.

I guess if your gonna do it right, you gotta through the doors? Anyone disagree? Agree?

Thanks for the info hellchicken. Perhaps it is as you said "not as hard as I thought."


Harness:

Thanks for the info on the x9331 harness and other ideas. I saw the posts regarding this. The info I found:

Amp Power On?

Anyone use this method? I am still going to need to decide how to power on the amp?

Options (as I see so far):

1. Wire it into signal on x9331 (if this exists and works)? Note, I do not have hifi system.
2. Use this product:

3. Wire it into the dc cigarette lighter in the boot.
One potential problem I see with this, is that I want the amp / speakers
to run when the car is not running (when the key is just inserted).

4. Use the MTX re-Q5. The MTX re-Q5 accepts low level remote power on, but the speaker wire coming from head unit does not distribute dc power. You can tweak the MTX re-Q5 to accept an "ac" signal and possible get it to work that way but I dont know.

Thanks everyone for your replies. Peace

 

It all depends on how many watts you plan to push to your speakers. I am running near 100 watts RMS. The factory lines are probably 22 gauge wires which will have an overall increase in resistance and impedance in your system. In my opinion, I would run 18 gauge wires for higher end systems for great speaker response and overall low resistance/impedance. I mean, you will have the entire door dismantled to replace the speaker anyway. You'll see it isn't that much more effort. Use the chopstick method, it will be easy. Break the chopstick into a 7" length and you will be set.

I would say putting the back panels on are the hardest. Taking off the rear seats if the easiest task of the entire project.


1. I heard that using the amp connector on x15 would work but would stay on for about 15 minutes after you turned your car off... this may not be good if your amp is drawing too much current.

2. Don't have a clue... never used one.

3. This is what I used. Your stereo will work without turning your car on. You insert the key and press the start button once. That engages the power but doesn't start your car if you don't have the clutch pressed. The down fall is that after about 10 minutes the the power cuts out.

4. Didn't try the A/C method. I guess I can try it and see. I will repost my findings when I get a chance to do this.

 

Thanks Hellchicken.

I will run wire to the doors. My buddy has a bunch of "monster" type cable he is going to give me so will save me some $. I am not sure on the gauge yet but I am guessing it is about 16 or 18. Hopefully I can fit that through the door.

I will have the PDX 5:

RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan. + 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan. + 300 watts x 1 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan. + 300 watts x 1 chan

and the Boston Acoustics ProSeries 60SE
Power range: 2-125 watts RMS (250 watts peak power).
+ Boston Acoustics SR95
75W RMS / 200W PEAK IMPEDANCE 4 OHM.

Happen to know what gauge wire would be best for that?

Regarding Amp power on:

When you say "after 10 minutes the power cuts out," do you mean after 10 minutes of inserting the key, pressing start (without turning car on)? or do you mean after 10 minutes of turning the car off (like when you park)?

Thanks.

 

As someone in this thread pointed out earlier, running speaker wires to the doors is time consuming but not terribly difficult. I just did it this past weekend. I found the easiest way to do it was to cut the top tab on the harness connector in the door jamb. This allows the harness connector to tilt inside the frame of the doorjamb just a bit, which is good because otherwise, there's no room inside the rubber boot to run wire. Some people like putting crossovers in the doors, but I've experienced problems in the past doing this, so my favorite way to wire doors is with this sort of cable:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

16 gauge should be more than sufficient for you... can you use 18 gauge? Probably. But if you're running new cable to the doors anyway, why not use the thicker cable?

 

I think you should be fine with 18 gauge wire. I had somewhat of a hard time finding a sweet spot to get the 16 gauge wire to fit in the socket hole when mounting the socket back onto the body of the car. In my opinion anything larger than 16 gauge you would need to make some modifications. If you are using monster cable you may have some issues there. They tend to make their cable housing much thicker, so your 16 gauge wire probably will be more like a 12 or 14 gauge of another brand.

I mean a short while after you insert your key and press start without turning your engine off. Also, when you turn off your engine it turns it off too, so you would need to hit start again to turn on the accessory power. Maybe you should try the power antenna on the x15 as someone suggested. Then you can post what you think about that. I think I would have tried that if I knew which wire it was. I still don't have a clear answer as to which wire that is. We'll all be here waiting for your response

 

Hey.

My buddy gave me 16 gauge wire . It looks pretty good, strong and thin (to get through door). Willahlborn, why does the speaker wire in the link you gave have 4 wires instead of two? What is the point of the green and black?

I was going to buy the urban mini sub enclosure, but they were sold out of their old one and are in production of a new one. It could be upwards to a month (hopefully sooner) before they will be shipping SO then I looked into the integral audio sub enclosure, but they are sold out of the r56 model. They are in production of a new one, of which will probably start shipping on Sept 15. It is a complete system though. Details will be released on there website in about a week, but here is the low down from integral.

So I guess I am out of options for a sub-enclosure!? The stealthbox for the R56 is just stupid. The older model was stealth and looks cool, but I am not really up for modifying this to fit the R56. Has anyone seen this done successfully? Anyone know of any other sub encloseres?

So anyway, I have ordered most of my stff. Amp, Bass Module, Front Components, Tweeter Holder, Rear 6x9s, and RAAMat. I will complete this install first and then the sub + enclosure later (I guess)

Most things should arrive next week and I will begin tracking my install.

Peace, Simba

 

I suggested 4-conductor wire because it's simple to run (one run instead of two) when you're mounting a mid and tweeter in the door. This is only necessary if you're remotely mounting the crossovers in the trunk or other convenient location. I prefer to do it this way as I have had bad experiences with crossovers mounted in the door. If you do mount the crossover in the door, you only need two conductors going into the door... and then the crossover will split the signal in two.

 

Thanks. I might pick up some of this wire. I will probably put the crossovers under the passenger seat (if they will fit) and then run this type of wire to the front components.

I decided on a sub-enclosure:

http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/v/m...x+09_.jpg.html

They are going to install the subwoofer (JL 10W3v3 4ohm) and I can do a local pickup in NH. This unit has been built for the 09' mini cooper. I still really like the urban mini, but this is super stealth and clean. I think it is a good choice.

Should be good to go for the entire install next week! Peace

 

With this stealth box, I will need to find a place for the PDX-5 Amp.

I think I will put it in the floor beneath the boot (where the jack is).

It will fit right? Any posts on installing an amp there? Anything I need to know, such as how to mount, how to cushion / protect, etc?

Thanks.

 

Amp
Alpine PDX-5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2LYDS8AIU9VMR

Front Component Speakers
Boston Acoustics ProSeries 60SE
http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acousti.../dp/B001DUK06K

Rear 6 x 9 Speakers
Boston Acoustics SR95
http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acousti.../dp/B002IVT2BW

Subwoofer
JL 10W3v3 4 Ohm
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...p?series_id=24

Bass Module / Amp Input Converter
MTX re-Q
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...F8&me=&seller=

Sub Enclosure
09' Mini Cooper Magic Box
http://www.wickedcas.com/gallery/v/m...x+09_.jpg.html

Tweeter Holder
Urban Mini
http://www.urbanmini.com/UrbanMINI/R...r_Adapter.html

Sound Deadener
RAAMmat BXT
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?p...emart&Itemid=3

All parts have been ordered. Total cost $1500. Everything will arrive Monday / Tuesday next week.

Very excited. Can't wait to get going and to track my install with you.

Thanks for all your help.

Simba