Navigation & Audio Front Speaker Replacement / Amp Question
Front Speaker Replacement / Amp Question
#2: It's time to replace the front speakers as I have a blown tweeter and a blown mid (different doors). I was thinking about the Polk DB6561 as I've read good reviews and they can be had for about $115, anyone have any experience with these components? Any other suggestions?
I currently run a 500w 2-ch amp to power a 10" Kappa sub-woofer, I don't care for a lot of power to the sub as I'm over the heavy bass phase (when I put turn it up, it HITS). Could I do the following: power both front speakers off 1-ch (can run 125w continuous per channel at 4 ohms) and then power the sub off the other channel?
Please note, I'm on a very tight budget so keep that in mind.
I currently run a 500w 2-ch amp to power a 10" Kappa sub-woofer, I don't care for a lot of power to the sub as I'm over the heavy bass phase (when I put turn it up, it HITS). Could I do the following: power both front speakers off 1-ch (can run 125w continuous per channel at 4 ohms) and then power the sub off the other channel?
Please note, I'm on a very tight budget so keep that in mind.
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Running the left and right fronts off of one channel would be a bad idea. You would only be getting half of the musical info in a track, especially on broadcasts/recordings that have good stereo seperation of instruments and vocals. The way around that would be to combine your stereo output to a mono input. You would get all the info, but it would sound flat an awful. There is one possible way to do as you propose. It requires passive crossovers. You can run your amp bridged and stereo at the same time if you passively crossover your fronts above what you crossover your sub at. For example; you run your amp full range. On the speaker outputs you run a high pass crossover on the left and right channels at, say, 80hz. At the same time you wire a single 80hz low pass crossover to your bridged output (usually right negative and left possitive, check your manual). This effectively divides up what the amp is "seeing" at it's output in a way that does not conflict. It's an old school solution, but it works for a budget. Note, you will not be able to independantly control your sub volume without a attenuator after the amp
Last edited by Supercoop55; Oct 18, 2009 at 02:41 PM.
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