Navigation & Audio "Upgrading the big three"
#26
07-13-2012, 06:39 AM
I could be wrong, but I always understood the big three to be; wiring, alternator and battery.
Regarding fusing, you should be fusing to protect the wire, not the equipment it's running to. Most of the time that equipment has its own onboard fusing. For example, a 4 gauge wire can not handle so much current. You should be fusing that wire to protect it from exceeding those current levels.
Capacitors are garbage. They usually draw OUT of the system more then they provide. I'm not going to get into this one as its been argued to death in car audio circles. Long story short, you're better to upgrade the big three if you want to spend your money.
What I am really curious to know about, and I was hoping to see in this thread, is what people are doing to upgrade the big three. I wouldn't be surprised if the Mini battery/alternator is right at the limit of the max current draw for the car during a worst case scenario (all electrical going full tilt). It's not very often the car is operated this way, so leaves the car audio enthusiast some wiggle room to add new toys. Anyone calculated what they believe the average operational current draw is? (hardcore car audio competitors know this number!!)
Ok, let me throw out an example. I'm adding about 620 watts of amplification to my Mini. So with a Class A/B amplifier efficiency of say 60%, that's a current draw of roughly 75 amps. A #4 gauge power wire can handle approximately 150 amps of current. So I'm ok there. I can protect that 4 gauge wire with a fuse anywhere between 75 to 150 amps, assuming my calculations are correct. Now that being said, I'm actually running two amps. So each will have its own dedicated power feed wire. The larger amp will draw 63 amps max and the smaller with draw 10 amps max. So I will size my wiring and fusing appropriately to exceed those current draws to be on the safe side. Most likely will run an 8 gauge and a 4 gauge. This is overkill, but will allow for future upgrades without having to spend more money and having to pull the car apart again.
Does anyone have the specs on the Mini battery and alternator handy??
Regarding fusing, you should be fusing to protect the wire, not the equipment it's running to. Most of the time that equipment has its own onboard fusing. For example, a 4 gauge wire can not handle so much current. You should be fusing that wire to protect it from exceeding those current levels.
Capacitors are garbage. They usually draw OUT of the system more then they provide. I'm not going to get into this one as its been argued to death in car audio circles. Long story short, you're better to upgrade the big three if you want to spend your money.
What I am really curious to know about, and I was hoping to see in this thread, is what people are doing to upgrade the big three. I wouldn't be surprised if the Mini battery/alternator is right at the limit of the max current draw for the car during a worst case scenario (all electrical going full tilt). It's not very often the car is operated this way, so leaves the car audio enthusiast some wiggle room to add new toys. Anyone calculated what they believe the average operational current draw is? (hardcore car audio competitors know this number!!)
Ok, let me throw out an example. I'm adding about 620 watts of amplification to my Mini. So with a Class A/B amplifier efficiency of say 60%, that's a current draw of roughly 75 amps. A #4 gauge power wire can handle approximately 150 amps of current. So I'm ok there. I can protect that 4 gauge wire with a fuse anywhere between 75 to 150 amps, assuming my calculations are correct. Now that being said, I'm actually running two amps. So each will have its own dedicated power feed wire. The larger amp will draw 63 amps max and the smaller with draw 10 amps max. So I will size my wiring and fusing appropriately to exceed those current draws to be on the safe side. Most likely will run an 8 gauge and a 4 gauge. This is overkill, but will allow for future upgrades without having to spend more money and having to pull the car apart again.
Does anyone have the specs on the Mini battery and alternator handy??
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