Navigation & Audio A Pillar replace for tweeter?
A Pillar replace for tweeter?
I have a 07' MCS with the stock 6 speaker stereo. Next on my mod list is to change out the speakers and maybe add a sub w/ amp.
Many of the speakers that fit the front door spots come with a 1" tweater and crossover.
Thought I had was to get the A Pillars that are made for the Premium system with the tweater hole already molded into it to replace my non molded ones.
Anybody do something like that? I kinda shudder to think what BMW charges for A Pillars
Or has someone installed by cutting hole in the non molded A Pillar? Results? Words of advise?
Thanks
Many of the speakers that fit the front door spots come with a 1" tweater and crossover.
Thought I had was to get the A Pillars that are made for the Premium system with the tweater hole already molded into it to replace my non molded ones.
Anybody do something like that? I kinda shudder to think what BMW charges for A Pillars
Or has someone installed by cutting hole in the non molded A Pillar? Results? Words of advise?
Thanks
Some folks here have done that. On my 07 with hi-fi, the anthracite headliner a-pillar covers are $35 each from Pelican Parts. The part numbers are 51432756770 and 51432756769 for the black covers. 51432756767 and 51432756768 for the standard headliner (grey) cover.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
Some folks here have done that. On my 07 with hi-fi, the anthracite headliner a-pillar covers are $35 each from Pelican Parts. The part numbers are 51432756770 and 51432756769 for the black covers. 51432756767 and 51432756768 for the standard headliner (grey) cover.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
I may order one set of each...the service guy looked at me as if I were crazy when I told him the part numbers I needed. Says he can't recall anyone ever asking for them. 
I need to wait 3 weeks for delivery, though. Still - it beats having the stock system. I wonder how hard it can be to install a component system to them.

I need to wait 3 weeks for delivery, though. Still - it beats having the stock system. I wonder how hard it can be to install a component system to them.
Anyone here end up completing the A-pillar replacement job? Just curious how difficult it was? What is your setup like?
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I was thinking they might be in a better listening position. I certainly don't know much about car audio. So your advice for a non-hifi upgrade would be to replace the two door speakers with components and put the tweeter in the upper position, then forget about tweeters in the a-pillar?
I was thinking they might be in a better listening position. I certainly don't know much about car audio. So your advice for a non-hifi upgrade would be to replace the two door speakers with components and put the tweeter in the upper position, then forget about tweeters in the a-pillar?
friends don't let friends put their tweeters in the a-panels!!!
In most cars the best image and soundstage would be to put the tweeter as far front as possible and ear level. This would be the A pillar, you just need to point them towards each other with no obstructions. The only challenge with the dash area is the glass and the dash .
If you go to world finals for SQ you will see this on quite a few cars
MiniSq , whats your ideal location for the tweeter? Have installed you system yet if so how does it image? I know you know your stuff I would love some feedback .
I would love to be wrong on this it would make my system a easy clean install
I wish I could put the BE tweeter in the door it would make my life easier(that tweeter is a beast).
I am from the old school..find the right tweeter and put it in the kick panels.
But i am so far out of the loop...that maybe a-piller and T/a is the new best method.
I just know that i never had any luck in the a-piller...not for lack of trying.
But i am so far out of the loop...that maybe a-piller and T/a is the new best method.
I just know that i never had any luck in the a-piller...not for lack of trying.
If you put a tweeter in the upper door speaker location, what would be driving the midrange? Are you going to have the tweeter do that? Unless you change things with an amp, or creative wiring, the lower door speaker gets mostly bass. You will end up with something like a subwoofer and a tweeter. Is that OK?
I wish I could put the BE tweeter in the door it would make my life easier(that tweeter is a beast).
When I install the new amp, I'll try the tweeters from my 2-way component speakers in the upper door speaker (4") location, and the crossover in the armrest. This will be the easiest solution. If I don't like it, I'll consider moving the tweeter to the A-pillar and deal with the wiring.
When I install the new amp, I'll try the tweeters from my 2-way component speakers in the upper door speaker (4") location, and the crossover in the armrest. This will be the easiest solution. If I don't like it, I'll consider moving the tweeter to the A-pillar and deal with the wiring.
If you put a tweeter in the upper door speaker location, what would be driving the midrange? Are you going to have the tweeter do that? Unless you change things with an amp, or creative wiring, the lower door speaker gets mostly bass. You will end up with something like a subwoofer and a tweeter. Is that OK?
for instance the midbass in the door is ver capable of playing midrange
typical frequency response on a car system would be
tweeter 22khz-3500hz
midbass 3500hz-100hz(this would be you midrange / midbass range)
sub 100hz - 28hz
Basically you would disconnet the 4" speaker, just because Mini put a speaker there does not mean you need to use it.
as far as the a pillar goes one thing has changed over time , the addition of time correction . Most processors or oem intergration pieces are starting to include this .
Before the tweeter and speaker would need to be close to gether so they acted as one speaker , that is why the kick panel was and still is a good location for speakers if you dont have the ability to time correct . The challenge with kick panel tweeters is your legs get in the way on the passsenger side and it is a little harder to bring your soundstage to the proper level.
You will even find some speakers that have the ability to do this on some level with their crossovers like my Focal Kit no 6.
When I install the new amp, I'll try the tweeters from my 2-way component speakers in the upper door speaker (4") location, and the crossover in the armrest. This will be the easiest solution. If I don't like it, I'll consider moving the tweeter to the A-pillar and deal with the wiring.
Most 2 way componenets sets cover a really good range
for instance the midbass in the door is ver capable of playing midrange
typical frequency response on a car system would be
tweeter 22khz-3500hz
midbass 3500hz-100hz(this would be you midrange / midbass range)
sub 100hz - 28hz
Basically you would disconnet the 4" speaker, just because Mini put a speaker there does not mean you need to use it.
for instance the midbass in the door is ver capable of playing midrange
typical frequency response on a car system would be
tweeter 22khz-3500hz
midbass 3500hz-100hz(this would be you midrange / midbass range)
sub 100hz - 28hz
Basically you would disconnet the 4" speaker, just because Mini put a speaker there does not mean you need to use it.
as far as the a pillar goes one thing has changed over time , the addition of time correction . Most processors or oem intergration pieces are starting to include this .
...
You will even find some speakers that have the ability to do this on some level with their crossovers like my Focal Kit no 6.
...
You will even find some speakers that have the ability to do this on some level with their crossovers like my Focal Kit no 6.
I would love some feedback after you do this
Apparently, Mini specs are right. You can theoretically get extension up to 14 KHz with the treble level all the way up. With it at 0, you can reach 10 KHz or so.
So, the plan of adding tweeters is completely possible without messing FR.
All you'd need to do is get the A pillars, add the tweeters, and find a way to route your tweeter wire to the X9331 connector. There, you'd splice an additional wire on your fronts, and add a single cap (probably 2 uF or so) to the + wire of the tweeter. That'd fill in the missing treble. You'd get bass an midrange out of the 4" and the 6". Full frequency response - no midrange gap.
I'm willing to bet that would be a HUGE improvement over the ultra-crappy speakers we now have. Of course, it'd be even better if you just replaced the whole deal, and burned the old speakers so that nobody else could ever use them again...
If you put a tweeter in the upper door speaker location, what would be driving the midrange? Are you going to have the tweeter do that? Unless you change things with an amp, or creative wiring, the lower door speaker gets mostly bass. You will end up with something like a subwoofer and a tweeter. Is that OK?
My 2007 HIFI has bass filtered out below somewhere around 200-150 hz. It may be different with 2009. Or, maybe MINI just randomly adds different filters as the mood takes them. I know, perhaps it is based on roof color...
Some folks here have done that. On my 07 with hi-fi, the anthracite headliner a-pillar covers are $35 each from Pelican Parts. The part numbers are 51432756770 and 51432756769 for the black covers. 51432756767 and 51432756768 for the standard headliner (grey) cover.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
RealOEM is a great place to get part numbers. I've purchased Mini OEM parts from Pelican Parts without any issues also.
Thanks much for everyone's help.
The A-pillar should actually come with the stock HiFi tweeters, I've read. Given that, you shouldn't need any extra brackets or anything as long as you are using the same size tweeters as replacements.
If you're set on utilizing the higher position for tweeters, then the A-pillars are what you need. If you just want new component speakers, using the existing spaces is a great solution. When it comes down to it, $35 for each pillar is pocket change. The installation (unless you're doing it yourself) will be a few bucks, but shouldn't be much. Tell us how it works out
If you're set on utilizing the higher position for tweeters, then the A-pillars are what you need. If you just want new component speakers, using the existing spaces is a great solution. When it comes down to it, $35 for each pillar is pocket change. The installation (unless you're doing it yourself) will be a few bucks, but shouldn't be much. Tell us how it works out
Like tweeter mounts/brackets, or anything else that might be inside the a-pillar or under the cover? Any notes from anyone with the HIFI? I'm hoping my local installer can install the tweeters there as well as the new a-pillar covers.


