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I have 2 Digital Design 8" subs wired to 1ohm powered by a Sundown Audio 1000w amp with a Kinetic Battery under the cargo floor. it's all on 4ga wire and puts out 142.2db at the windshield
got a 10 inch competition MA Audio sub 1000 watt wired at 2-ohm powered by a competition MA Audio 1000 watt monoblock amp.
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
the amp is only pushing about 30% of its full capacity and ive never fully bumped the sub (in fear of breaking all the glass in the car)
everything else is stock and its in a simple square sealed 10 sub box
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I have one, but don't have a MINI anymore. I just traded my MINI in on Sunday......
so you want to buy it?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ct/4881/cat/28
so you want to buy it?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ct/4881/cat/28
id love a box like that and im going to attempt to build one this summer - never got my hands dirty with fiberglass yet...
id buy that if it fit a 10 inch sub, with 6.5inch mounting depth lol good luck on the sale - sorry to see you leave the mini community
id buy that if it fit a 10 inch sub, with 6.5inch mounting depth lol good luck on the sale - sorry to see you leave the mini community
It is a 7.75" mounting depth. I molded the fiberglass down into the tool tray, which I believe is over 2.5" deep....the curved edges of the hole are deceiving. The sides of the box are 4.25", the fiberglass is about .25" thick, and the top mounting board (where the sub mounts to) is .75" thick...which is all equal to 7.75". 7.75" mounting depth is more than fine for most any 12" sub.
I achieved a level surface with the back seat when folded flat. From the bottom of the boot floor to the surface of the flat seat is about 9" or so. there are .75" spacers on the top of the box, and the "false floor" is .5" thick.
Last edited by Xray'dit_Mini; May 1, 2009 at 10:54 PM.
Take a look at my gallery, I have a 12" Hertz ml3000 sub. handles 1500 watts. hertz 6 1/2 mids and tweets, mlk class and pair of 3-way 6x9's. a audison 5.1k amp pushing it all. Sounds unbelievably clean and loud!
Diamond Audio Cm6.5 sperates kit in the front door and tweeter location running off the factory high-fi amp and 200mf caps on the front factory mids. 8" 200watt bazooka tube in the back with built inamp so removal is very easy. Can turn the radio all the way up on any kind of sone and get lots of volume and no destortion.
Diamond Audio 6.5CM in front door and tweeter locations run off factory high-fi with 200mf capacitors on the front mids. Bazooka 8" 200watt sub in back for easy removal. Doesn't sound like I have much but I can turn the radio all the way up with my I-Pod on level 4 and don't get any distortion with lots of volume and great sound quality.
trunk setup
Here is a pic I posted on another thread of my system I've been working on and I will post a more detailed construction of the project sometime soon. I am still working on the lid which will be MDF and possibly plexi glass to see through (maybe some tasteful neon inside the enclosure). Also, the fiberglass inside the amp enclosure will be painted red to match the outside of the car. With the lid on I regain some trunk space, not much, but something. It is definitely possible to build a good system without taking out the back seat and left with some trunk space. The beauty of this car is the smaller cabin which makes higher SPL's possible as long as you dynamat the **** out of it. The heaviest item is of course the speaker, image dynamic subs have pretty big/heavy magnets. This is my first fiberglass experience and all I went off of was forums.
I just finished dropping in a set of Alpine Type-S 6-1/2" Components in the front doors pushed by the stock head unit, and my own custom sealed sub with a HiVi SP10 (dual magnet 10") powered by an Alpine PDX-600.1 (600W) mono amp mounted under the passenger seat's carpet (totally stealth). The swiveling tweeters are replacing the 4" midranges in the doors using custom adapter plates. I'm also testing a ported version of the same basic sub, only the net internal volume's bumped up from the 0.8 cu.ft. (sealed) to 1.35 cu.ft. because it doesn't have the amp/storage box on the side.
Don't mind the dog hair or the homeless dude




More pics following the jump: http://www.urbanmini.com
Don't mind the dog hair or the homeless dude




More pics following the jump: http://www.urbanmini.com
Check Roadster Sound at http://www.roadstersound.com
I just finished dropping in a set of Alpine Type-S 6-1/2" Components in the front doors pushed by the stock head unit, and my own custom sealed sub with a HiVi SP10 (dual magnet 10") powered by an Alpine PDX-600.1 (600W) mono amp mounted under the passenger seat's carpet (totally stealth). The swiveling tweeters are replacing the 4" midranges in the doors using custom adapter plates. I'm also testing a ported version of the same basic sub, only the net internal volume's bumped up from the 0.8 cu.ft. (sealed) to 1.35 cu.ft. because it doesn't have the amp/storage box on the side.
Don't mind the dog hair or the homeless dude

Don't mind the dog hair or the homeless dude

Diamond Audio 6.5CM in front door and tweeter locations run off factory high-fi with 200mf capacitors on the front mids. Bazooka 8" 200watt sub in back for easy removal. Doesn't sound like I have much but I can turn the radio all the way up with my I-Pod on level 4 and don't get any distortion with lots of volume and great sound quality.
Why the caps on the mids?
Thanks
caps on mids
The mids have way to much bass coming out of them with the radio's bass setting on zero. I actually used the 99uf caps that cross over the mids at around 400 hertz at a 6 db slope. I also tried the 200 uf that would cross them over at 200 hertz but that wasn't high enough and they still had some bass bleed through. Here is a site for all the caps values and crossover points.
http://www.matey-matey.com/capacitor_crossovers.shtml
http://www.matey-matey.com/capacitor_crossovers.shtml
Nice setup Bertha Cooper, I went with something similar, and just got it all finished up.
ARC Audio 1000.1 Amp
12 Inch Kicker L7
Lots of Dynamat
I got an interchangeable Peice of Plexiglass so I can swap it. Im gonna try and make one with a MINI logo and see how it comes out.
Im gonna upload some YouTube Vids of how hard it hits in a couple days


ARC Audio 1000.1 Amp
12 Inch Kicker L7
Lots of Dynamat
I got an interchangeable Peice of Plexiglass so I can swap it. Im gonna try and make one with a MINI logo and see how it comes out.
Im gonna upload some YouTube Vids of how hard it hits in a couple days











