Navigation & Audio Boss Audio BASS600 8-inch low profile amplified subwoofer
#26
Just wondering if anyone has an idea on how much it might cost to get this installed at an audio store. I'm just trying to get an idea on prices. So far, if I were to go with a single 10", box, and amp, it would run about $400 installed. I'm trying to find out if I buy this and have it installed, if it will be cheaper.
#27
Boss Bass600 vs. SSL SoundStorm USS8
Does anyone know if these are exactly the same? Is Boss and SSL the same company? They look identical (except the SSL unit is black) and the specs appear to be identical. They sell for the same price. I think i'd like th eblack color better. Anyone bought and installed the SSL unit?
#28
Does anyone know if these are exactly the same? Is Boss and SSL the same company? They look identical (except the SSL unit is black) and the specs appear to be identical. They sell for the same price. I think i'd like th eblack color better. Anyone bought and installed the SSL unit?
#30
#31
Bass600 mounting hint...
One hint on the bass600, or rather the remote control. When I put it in initially, I didn't run the remote cable too securely. It ended up getting caught in the passenger seat track, which sliced it up.
I re-ran the cable, cutting off the damaged portion, and putting a new (6-pin) connector on the end. Easy for me, as I've got the tools for those connectors, but if you don't, reasonable crimping tools start at around $40 and go up from there.
If you don't connect the remote, the bass600 runs at a preset level. When you connect the remote, you get a very bright blue LED, and the ability to adjust the bass level.
I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.
And the cable is run where it can't get screwed up again!
I re-ran the cable, cutting off the damaged portion, and putting a new (6-pin) connector on the end. Easy for me, as I've got the tools for those connectors, but if you don't, reasonable crimping tools start at around $40 and go up from there.
If you don't connect the remote, the bass600 runs at a preset level. When you connect the remote, you get a very bright blue LED, and the ability to adjust the bass level.
I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.
And the cable is run where it can't get screwed up again!
#32
One hint on the bass600, or rather the remote control. When I put it in initially, I didn't run the remote cable too securely. It ended up getting caught in the passenger seat track, which sliced it up.
I re-ran the cable, cutting off the damaged portion, and putting a new (6-pin) connector on the end. Easy for me, as I've got the tools for those connectors, but if you don't, reasonable crimping tools start at around $40 and go up from there.
If you don't connect the remote, the bass600 runs at a preset level. When you connect the remote, you get a very bright blue LED, and the ability to adjust the bass level.
I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.
And the cable is run where it can't get screwed up again!
I re-ran the cable, cutting off the damaged portion, and putting a new (6-pin) connector on the end. Easy for me, as I've got the tools for those connectors, but if you don't, reasonable crimping tools start at around $40 and go up from there.
If you don't connect the remote, the bass600 runs at a preset level. When you connect the remote, you get a very bright blue LED, and the ability to adjust the bass level.
I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.
And the cable is run where it can't get screwed up again!
What kind of hardware came with your unit? I noticed you hooked up the power to the nearby power outlet in the boot. Any issues with this? Did you just not hook up the remote turn on lead since the outlet only works when the ignition is on?
#33
Man - you are becoming my personal stereo consultant! Seriously - I really appreciate you passing on the dos and don'ts which keeps me from making stupid mistakes. I was thinking about mounting the remote beside the Aux input below the switch panel.
What kind of hardware came with your unit? I noticed you hooked up the power to the nearby power outlet in the boot. Any issues with this? Did you just not hook up the remote turn on lead since the outlet only works when the ignition is on?
What kind of hardware came with your unit? I noticed you hooked up the power to the nearby power outlet in the boot. Any issues with this? Did you just not hook up the remote turn on lead since the outlet only works when the ignition is on?
I ran temporary power from the aux connector, then hardwired into the aux connector. Ran a jumper on the bass600 from the +12 to the remote line, as power is only on at the aux power connector when the ignition is on, which is fine with me.
Enjoy!
#34
[quote=k6rtm;2677176]I'm still not sure where (or if) I'm going to mount the remote permanently, so right now it flops around beneath the parking brake handle.
When in doubt, use Velcro.
If you don't like where it is, the adhesive will come off of most surfaces with Goo Gone. I mounted the remote behind the ebrake handle. I can easily reach it while driving and the LED doesn't shine in my face.
If you don't like where it is, the adhesive will come off of most surfaces with Goo Gone. I mounted the remote behind the ebrake handle. I can easily reach it while driving and the LED doesn't shine in my face.
#35
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Robin how did you mount yours? One would think that to get the most bass it would have to be either placed in the boot on top of the carpet or held in place w/ bungee cord etc to one of the sides of the boot. If it just rests on one side of the boot idk if you will feel as much bass as if it's held against the frame of the car....then again both sides protrude from the actual chasis.
#36
Robin how did you mount yours? One would think that to get the most bass it would have to be either placed in the boot on top of the carpet or held in place w/ bungee cord etc to one of the sides of the boot. If it just rests on one side of the boot idk if you will feel as much bass as if it's held against the frame of the car....then again both sides protrude from the actual chasis.
Bass tends to be less directional, and will go through stuff much better than higher frequencies. That's why when your neighbor is rocking out, what you hear is the beat. According to a friend, the sole purpose of a sub is to annoy one's neighbors.
So, the location of a sub is much less critical than the location of a tweeter.
#37
#38
After the mult-pin high-level didn't work, I went back to Potter's Electronics in Monterey, CA and bought a pair of RCA Jacks. I previously bought a length of CAT5 cable. I soldered the cable wires to the RCA jacks for the Bass600 side. For the MINI side, I soldered the other ends from the cable to the appropriate pins in the X9331 connector. I popped a pin out of the X9331 soldered the appropriate wire to it, and popped it back in. Then did the next one.
Last edited by Robin Casady; 02-27-2009 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Corrected after checking what I had actually done, not just remembered...
#39
I ended up using the high-level inputs because I wasn't getting any volume with the low-level RCA jacks.
I went to Potter's Electronics in Monterey, CA and bought a connector like the one used on the Bass600. I Also bought a length of CAT5 cable. I soldered the cable wires to the connector pins for the Bass600 side. For the MINI side, I soldered the other ends from the cable to the appropriate pins in the X9331 connector. I popped a pin out of the X9331 soldered the appropriate wire to it, and popped it back in. Then did the next one.
I went to Potter's Electronics in Monterey, CA and bought a connector like the one used on the Bass600. I Also bought a length of CAT5 cable. I soldered the cable wires to the connector pins for the Bass600 side. For the MINI side, I soldered the other ends from the cable to the appropriate pins in the X9331 connector. I popped a pin out of the X9331 soldered the appropriate wire to it, and popped it back in. Then did the next one.
I thought with the HiFi system that you only had the option of low-level inputs?
#43
#45
Solder the + to the center of the plug and the - to the harness and you are done. You have to solder 2 plugs, 1 left, 1 right.
#46
You are right. I got it all backwards in my mind. The multi-pin connector is the high-level inputs. The RCA jacks are the low-level inputs. I did the multi-pin first, then did the RCA jacks when the high-level inputs didn't work.
I'll fix my earlier post.
#47
SSL's Soundstorm USS8 Install
Well, it's installed. It went OK, but not exactly as planned. I am quite pleased with the deep, clear bass the SSL provides. I got that "thumpa thumpa" bass now.
Removing the top panel.
The infamous X9331 connector
The X9331, disconnected
Popping out the pins
This is where things went a little different than planned. I used a piece of CAT5E cable, and tried to solder the cable to the back of the pins. I suck at soldering, and it just made a mess. I decide to use T taps:
T Taps with the CAT5E cable. I found it way too brittle, so I left and bought some 16 gauge speaker wire.
Much better with flexible wire. I tapped the front left and right speakers.
Taking a hint from Robin, and put the subwoofer control behind the hand brake. Works great there, I can adjust with out looking at it. I ran the wire under the console and brought it up between the rear cup holder and console.
Robin wasn't kidding - this sucker is bright!
This seems to be the only logical place to mount it - as discussed in this thread.
I used some cable wrap to clean up the install, and wired the power directly to a 12 volt outlet plug. Taking another hint from k6rtm, I jumpered the remote turn on to the +12v.
Many thanks to Robin and all who have contributed to this thread. I am very pleased with the results!
Removing the top panel.
The infamous X9331 connector
The X9331, disconnected
Popping out the pins
This is where things went a little different than planned. I used a piece of CAT5E cable, and tried to solder the cable to the back of the pins. I suck at soldering, and it just made a mess. I decide to use T taps:
T Taps with the CAT5E cable. I found it way too brittle, so I left and bought some 16 gauge speaker wire.
Much better with flexible wire. I tapped the front left and right speakers.
Taking a hint from Robin, and put the subwoofer control behind the hand brake. Works great there, I can adjust with out looking at it. I ran the wire under the console and brought it up between the rear cup holder and console.
Robin wasn't kidding - this sucker is bright!
This seems to be the only logical place to mount it - as discussed in this thread.
I used some cable wrap to clean up the install, and wired the power directly to a 12 volt outlet plug. Taking another hint from k6rtm, I jumpered the remote turn on to the +12v.
Many thanks to Robin and all who have contributed to this thread. I am very pleased with the results!
Last edited by euells; 02-28-2009 at 09:34 AM.
#48
#49
Can you give details of what you did to tap the 12V adapter? I know I am already severely indebted to you and Robin and all the other contributors, but your experience is invaluable.
Thanks in advance
#50
Anyone else use Cat5E for this? Seems way too small but maybe I'm . Would it be easier to tap in at the amp's connector, X10266 instead of X9331 if keeping the sub in the trunk?