Ok...Schultze is 75% nekkid on the inside now (including removing the rear seat) & he'll be that way for a few weeks.
Why?
1. Installation of my Megan Coilovers is planned in the very near future & I will be cutting into the body to have access for the adjustable rear extenders as shown in this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=93463
2. My interior me-ification is still "in process" and now that the rear side panels and center rear boot access panel have been removed, all that's left to remove is the interior hatch panel which will be removed tomorrow since I ran out of daylight today. Once the last panel is removed, I will paint it gloss black to match the other panel pieces.
3. I still need to remove the door skins so that they can also be painted gloss black. Still undecided as to whether or not to paint the elliptical rings gloss red or gloss black.
4. Front seats will also be removed so that I can remove the Wet Okoles and reinstall them for a more snug/proper fit.
5. The boot area carpet has also been temporarily removed.
6. I plan on calling around to get the best pricing on an anthracite headliner & anthracite A-B-C pillar covers (those exist, yes?).
Why is all this being posted in the Navigation & Audio folder???
Well...since everything is nekkid (or will be very soon), I figured I should go ahead and install some Dynamat/Fatmat to reduce/eliminate road noise, vibrations, etc.
The only thing left inside Schultze will be the carpet in the cabin and if it's as easy to remove as the boot area, I will remove it to install Dynamat/Fatmat underneath!
Here's the big question: How much square footage of Dynamat/Fatmat will I need?
I do have a sunroof and since the headliner is being replaced, is it a good idea to install Dynamat/Fatmat in the roof?
I did find a seller of Fatmat with a very good price...if they allow local pickup, it'll be an even BETTER price since I won't have to pay shipping.
As always, all input/comments/advice is greatly appreciated.
Erika
Why?
1. Installation of my Megan Coilovers is planned in the very near future & I will be cutting into the body to have access for the adjustable rear extenders as shown in this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=93463
2. My interior me-ification is still "in process" and now that the rear side panels and center rear boot access panel have been removed, all that's left to remove is the interior hatch panel which will be removed tomorrow since I ran out of daylight today. Once the last panel is removed, I will paint it gloss black to match the other panel pieces.
3. I still need to remove the door skins so that they can also be painted gloss black. Still undecided as to whether or not to paint the elliptical rings gloss red or gloss black.
4. Front seats will also be removed so that I can remove the Wet Okoles and reinstall them for a more snug/proper fit.
5. The boot area carpet has also been temporarily removed.
6. I plan on calling around to get the best pricing on an anthracite headliner & anthracite A-B-C pillar covers (those exist, yes?).
Why is all this being posted in the Navigation & Audio folder???
Well...since everything is nekkid (or will be very soon), I figured I should go ahead and install some Dynamat/Fatmat to reduce/eliminate road noise, vibrations, etc.
The only thing left inside Schultze will be the carpet in the cabin and if it's as easy to remove as the boot area, I will remove it to install Dynamat/Fatmat underneath!
Here's the big question: How much square footage of Dynamat/Fatmat will I need?
I do have a sunroof and since the headliner is being replaced, is it a good idea to install Dynamat/Fatmat in the roof?
I did find a seller of Fatmat with a very good price...if they allow local pickup, it'll be an even BETTER price since I won't have to pay shipping.
As always, all input/comments/advice is greatly appreciated.
Erika
On a Toyota Paseo (about the size of a Tercel, but with a cuter-looking body), I did the trunk, underside of the trunk lid, the divider between the trunk and the cabin, floor and doors with a Dynamat Extreme 36 square foot kit and had a little bit left over. I don't know what quantities FatMat comes in, but 36-50 square feet would probably be plenty.
Save the floor and roof for last, and if you think you're going to run low, you can do 50% coverage rather than 100% coverage by cutting the FatMat into strips without reducing it's effectiveness. I usually do 100% coverage on the places where it's easy to lay down a large sheet, just because it's more convenient, not because it's more effective.
Speaking of cutting, get a thick metal ruler and a box cutter/utility knife. You can cut sound deadening material with heavy shears, but you risk gumming up the shears, and they can be a pain to clean afterwards. With a box cutter, you just throw away the blade.
Save the floor and roof for last, and if you think you're going to run low, you can do 50% coverage rather than 100% coverage by cutting the FatMat into strips without reducing it's effectiveness. I usually do 100% coverage on the places where it's easy to lay down a large sheet, just because it's more convenient, not because it's more effective.
Speaking of cutting, get a thick metal ruler and a box cutter/utility knife. You can cut sound deadening material with heavy shears, but you risk gumming up the shears, and they can be a pain to clean afterwards. With a box cutter, you just throw away the blade.
Quote:
Save the floor and roof for last, and if you think you're going to run low, you can do 50% coverage rather than 100% coverage by cutting the FatMat into strips without reducing it's effectiveness. I usually do 100% coverage on the places where it's easy to lay down a large sheet, just because it's more convenient, not because it's more effective.
Speaking of cutting, get a thick metal ruler and a box cutter/utility knife. You can cut sound deadening material with heavy shears, but you risk gumming up the shears, and they can be a pain to clean afterwards. With a box cutter, you just throw away the blade.
Originally Posted by ScottRiqui
On a Toyota Paseo (about the size of a Tercel, but with a cuter-looking body), I did the trunk, underside of the trunk lid, the divider between the trunk and the cabin, floor and doors with a Dynamat Extreme 36 square foot kit and had a little bit left over. I don't know what quantities FatMat comes in, but 36-50 square feet would probably be plenty. Save the floor and roof for last, and if you think you're going to run low, you can do 50% coverage rather than 100% coverage by cutting the FatMat into strips without reducing it's effectiveness. I usually do 100% coverage on the places where it's easy to lay down a large sheet, just because it's more convenient, not because it's more effective.
Speaking of cutting, get a thick metal ruler and a box cutter/utility knife. You can cut sound deadening material with heavy shears, but you risk gumming up the shears, and they can be a pain to clean afterwards. With a box cutter, you just throw away the blade.
Thanks for the input, Scott!
Here are my eBay options:
I can get 100 sq. ft. of Fatmat Extreme for $130 shipped. If I install all 100', it will only add 23# to the weight of Schultze. (50mil thick)
I can get 50 sq. ft. of Megamat for $130 shipped. If I install all 50', it will only add 38# to the weight of Schultze. (70mil thick)
I read on one of the threads how someone used Peel & Stick asphalt roofing material...any input/knowledge on that type of product? The thread mentioned that Dynamat/Fatmat/B-Quiet products were all based on the P&S asphalt roofing material. Guess I need to stop by Lowes/Home Depot to get the specs/pricing on that item...
Erika
6th Gear
I've used Dynamat on my `05 doors, under rear seat, and hatch. I would definitely get the 100 sq. ft.
My reasoning is that with the interior stripped, you can do the whole floor pan and firewall, where a great deal of engine and road-noise gets in, and at that point, you are looking at at close to a 10x10 ft. area, counting the doors, hatch, rear fender area, door panel interior, etc.
It will be more effective to cover more area than to have thicker stuff on less area. If you have any left over, you can use it double-thick where it suits you, but you may well find that you wish you had more than 100 sq. ft.
My reasoning is that with the interior stripped, you can do the whole floor pan and firewall, where a great deal of engine and road-noise gets in, and at that point, you are looking at at close to a 10x10 ft. area, counting the doors, hatch, rear fender area, door panel interior, etc.
It will be more effective to cover more area than to have thicker stuff on less area. If you have any left over, you can use it double-thick where it suits you, but you may well find that you wish you had more than 100 sq. ft.
6th Gear
I used Fatmat to do the rear (floor and sides) on my GP. I had a lot of the 50 sq ft left over. I was satisifed with the Fatmat. It was a lot of work because nothing is straight or flat. It took a lot of individual pieces.