Navigation & Audio Line Out Converter
Line Out Converter
What line out converters does everyone reccomend? I Stopped by a best buy the other day, they had a range from stinger fixed from $20cdn bucks to a peripheral at $80cdn.
Anyone know any good ones that are bang for buck. Produce good noise without any crap. Not afraid to purchase online either. Names and links would be helpful
Anyone know any good ones that are bang for buck. Produce good noise without any crap. Not afraid to purchase online either. Names and links would be helpful
What do you want it to do, just convert from speaker to line levels?
Or do you want filtering and summing, for running a sub?
Plenty available on eBay -- I picked up a cheepie (less than $20) designed for subwoofer use.
Or do you want filtering and summing, for running a sub?
Plenty available on eBay -- I picked up a cheepie (less than $20) designed for subwoofer use.
Pretty much just want to plug my wires into my amp lol. I just want some thump and bass in my car. I am hooking up the wires from the input of the front low speaker. Will a fixed cheepie line out converter do the job? Is there any problems with the cheepie ones that you know?
Here's the cheepie I got from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEWYM
I used it in a breadboard/test setup, and it worked. Doesn't have a lot of flexibility, with fixed turnover frequencies.
The actual sub package I installed is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OSZA44/
which has everything in one smallish box. Right now, I have it sitting up in the boot:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEWYM
I used it in a breadboard/test setup, and it worked. Doesn't have a lot of flexibility, with fixed turnover frequencies.
The actual sub package I installed is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OSZA44/
which has everything in one smallish box. Right now, I have it sitting up in the boot:
I bought the converter from Best Buy for $25...works great!!! (Forgot the brand, but i think its owned by Rockford Fosgate)
Then I got home and found this one...$4.20
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=265-025
Its only reccommended for up to 15W, but according to the specs on the Sticky in this forum, that is exactally what the non Hi-Fi radio is putting out on all 4 channels...
Then I got home and found this one...$4.20
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=265-025
Its only reccommended for up to 15W, but according to the specs on the Sticky in this forum, that is exactally what the non Hi-Fi radio is putting out on all 4 channels...
oH OKAY THANKS! Shipping that $4 item to canada costs $15...cheapest haha. and then i have to wait. I might as well just go to best buy and get one up to 15 amps or the one you got.
Bestbuy seems to only carry ''Stinger'', ''Monster'', ''Peripheral'' as their audio accessories. But they only had line out converters in Stinger and Peripheral, peripheral being the one that is $80 cdn.
Ring any bells, or can u find that brand out?
Bestbuy seems to only carry ''Stinger'', ''Monster'', ''Peripheral'' as their audio accessories. But they only had line out converters in Stinger and Peripheral, peripheral being the one that is $80 cdn.
Ring any bells, or can u find that brand out?
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The brand is "IE" or "installedge.com" [It is in fact a division of the Rockford Corporation]
Model# - IEC AULOC
http://www.installedge.com/products/...roduct_id=1108
Bought it at the Chattanooga, TN Best Buy 2 weeks ago...
I assume Best Buy may use different suppliers in different regions...
Model# - IEC AULOC
http://www.installedge.com/products/...roduct_id=1108
Bought it at the Chattanooga, TN Best Buy 2 weeks ago...
I assume Best Buy may use different suppliers in different regions...
The brand is "IE" or "installedge.com" [It is in fact a division of the Rockford Corporation]
Model# - IEC AULOC
http://www.installedge.com/products/...roduct_id=1108
Bought it at the Chattanooga, TN Best Buy 2 weeks ago...
I assume Best Buy may use different suppliers in different regions...
Model# - IEC AULOC
http://www.installedge.com/products/...roduct_id=1108
Bought it at the Chattanooga, TN Best Buy 2 weeks ago...
I assume Best Buy may use different suppliers in different regions...
Its working great for me!
It was very easy to install, and its been in for 2 weeks, and I've had NO problems.
It has 2 adjustment screws/***** on it, and I have actually yet to touch them...so I am sure if I take time to set it up...it will be even better!
It was very easy to install, and its been in for 2 weeks, and I've had NO problems.
It has 2 adjustment screws/***** on it, and I have actually yet to touch them...so I am sure if I take time to set it up...it will be even better!
My sub is running off the front channels from the head (see the frequency response and swap threads for gory details). If I go to a 4 channel amp, I'll be running all 4 channels from just the 2 front channel head signals as they're the only ones with full fidelity.
Stinger SLOC, SLOC II, SALOC (SGN13).
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...9946/SFV/30046
I used the SALOC (SGN13).
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...9946/SFV/30046
I used the SALOC (SGN13).
Actually, if you want to run the HU's output directly into the front end of an amp you'd need an amp that can accept speaker level inputs, line level is "pre-amp" level..
I wanted to have some processing options ( EQ, 24dB crossovers ), so I got an Audiocontrol DQL-8 to use as my converter ahead of my amplifiers. It's EQ options are unmatched, but it's very expensive..
To run the HU's output directly into a four channel amp to power separates up front ( disregarding for the moment the rear fill speakers and any sub you might want to add as well ), you would need an amp that not only would have to accept speaker level inputs, but also have a hi-pass and low-pass crossover built into it. If you want to run a sub as well you should have the mid/midbass woofer bandpassed. You won't find a lot of four channel amps that offer both a hi-pass crossover and ( in addition to ) a bandpass crossover. This is where a processor ahead of the amp(s) can provide solutions. Keep in mind, you have to do some homework.. For instance, that DQL-8 I mentioned doesn't do bandpass. That's not a problem for me as my Zed Draconia amp does. The combination of the processor and amp ( both having the same order type of crossovers ) gives me a lot of flexibility.
BTW, to get hi-pass/bandpass capabilities out of an outboard crossover/processor, you'd want to look for a "Three-way" crossover capability.
I Hope that's a bit clearer than mud..
Cheers,
Bill
I wanted to have some processing options ( EQ, 24dB crossovers ), so I got an Audiocontrol DQL-8 to use as my converter ahead of my amplifiers. It's EQ options are unmatched, but it's very expensive..
To run the HU's output directly into a four channel amp to power separates up front ( disregarding for the moment the rear fill speakers and any sub you might want to add as well ), you would need an amp that not only would have to accept speaker level inputs, but also have a hi-pass and low-pass crossover built into it. If you want to run a sub as well you should have the mid/midbass woofer bandpassed. You won't find a lot of four channel amps that offer both a hi-pass crossover and ( in addition to ) a bandpass crossover. This is where a processor ahead of the amp(s) can provide solutions. Keep in mind, you have to do some homework.. For instance, that DQL-8 I mentioned doesn't do bandpass. That's not a problem for me as my Zed Draconia amp does. The combination of the processor and amp ( both having the same order type of crossovers ) gives me a lot of flexibility.
BTW, to get hi-pass/bandpass capabilities out of an outboard crossover/processor, you'd want to look for a "Three-way" crossover capability.
I Hope that's a bit clearer than mud..
Cheers,
Bill
Found some mud 
Regarding the bandpass, etc., my bit above was assuming someone was going to go active for the front speakers, splitting the hi/mid frequencies between tweeters and mid woofers via an active, or electronic crossover. Obviously the above reply would not be accurate for someone using components up front that utilized passive crossovers..
The bit about the speaker level output of the HU remains true..
Bill in P.G.

Regarding the bandpass, etc., my bit above was assuming someone was going to go active for the front speakers, splitting the hi/mid frequencies between tweeters and mid woofers via an active, or electronic crossover. Obviously the above reply would not be accurate for someone using components up front that utilized passive crossovers..
The bit about the speaker level output of the HU remains true..
Bill in P.G.
Question, where did you place the DQL-8?
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