I've been using my ICE-LINK plus successfully for over 2 years with my old 30 gig iPod and my 5.5 gen 80 gig iPod. My iPhone, on the other hand, has been hit or miss. Monday I was driving home from work listening to an audiobook on the iPhone via the ICE-LINK and I was suddenly hit with electrical gremlins. The windshield wipers started going. Then the airbag and seatbelt lights came on. I pulled off the road, shut down the car and restarted, hoping that would reset the system. It didn't. In addition, my interior instrument lights and my turn signals no longer worked.

When I got home, I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes or so, again hoping to reset the system. This still did not work. In addition to the other symptoms described above, my head unit now says "disabled" (perhaps the radio just needs to be reset after the battery disconnect).

Is there any way for me to reset the system and clear these issues? I don't relish the thought of driving 30 miles to the dealership with ***** electronics. I guess I'm done with the ICE-LINK Plus - I suppose I'll have to remove it.

In the meantime, it would be nice to have a driveable car.

Any advice appreciated.

 

I'd call EAS assuming it was purchased through them to see if they can offer any advice on the situation.

Please do keep us informed as to how this pans out.

 

The module has failed, shorting ibus - this needs to be removed immediately.

Your best bet would be to upgrade to the DICE at this time. We have an upgrade that will allow for you to use your existing cabling:

DICE iPod Integration Kit for BMW - *UPGRADE*
http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...roducts_id=283

Unfortunately, Dension pulled out of the states 2 years ago - along with support.

 

Not sure how removal works when you're saying I can use the DICE upgrade with existing cabling. Which "existing cabling" is this referring to? Do I need to remove the ICE-LINK entirely, or can I leave the block plugged into the head unit and just disconnect the ibus? (I'm trying to remember what this looked like when I installed it, but I believe the module with the chip (the ibus I assume?) could be disconnected from the harness block that plugs into the head unit - is this correct?)

I have the head unit version, not the trunk mount version. Will the DICE upgrade work for that as well, or do I need the full DICE unit?

 

I would bet that it has nothing at all to do with your ICE-LINK. More than likely you have aloose ground cable from the battery to the chassis or possibly a loose power cable. Either that or there is something wrong with the ECU for your car. Even if the ICE-LINK completely shorted out you would just blow a fuse for that particular circuit. You are having a variety of problems with different circuits so it has to be something further up the line. now that I think of it, I seem to remember reading about problems with the main lines at the fuse box underneath the hood.

 

Everything will work, simply swap modules and everything will be fine.

 

This is shorting ibus, not power. It's a known issue with older icelinks.

 

That was me, in a post 2 years ago when I originally installed the ICE-LINK. Sigh, here we go again.

 

I pulled the head unit, removed the ICE-LINK, and everything is back to normal. Looks like Tom was right on the money.

This is the second time I've pulled the head unit, and I still can't believe what a royal PITA that is. Dealing with those downtubes is a nightmare if you don't want to scratch your dash. Whoever came up with that design should be fired. But tortured first.

Pulling the head unit on my VW Passat was a simple matter of sticking the metal bar from a hanging file folder into a slot on each side, pushing to release, and sliding the head unit out. A one-minute operation. I spent over an hour on the MINI tearing things apart and putting them back together again. I think I'll just have to be content with burning MP3 discs - forget the iPod/iPhone integration. I don't even want to think about taking that center stack apart again.

Thanks again Tom for the timely and accurate advice.

 

Well damn. Looks like I was wrong. Makes me sort of glad I only have an Aux-in device.