They are two completely different systems and would require replacement of the Head unit (dual on NAV) as well and all the plastics down the center console. There are also many other components that are different that would have to be changed as well.

This is not an easy or inexpensive job. I remember someone else figuring this out at about $6K - $7K

Much if not all of the computer functions are controlled by the dials on the radio. Also all of the computer controls that are displayed on the radio/speedo screen are sent thru or generated in the head unit.

I.E. IT MUST STAY in the car. It would be moved as they have done in Japan and put in the space that is used for the secret compartment. but the parts ordered from japan have been running over $700 plus shipping and those of us that have seriously thought about it have found that the shipping is runnign $400 plus.

 

Please God Hellpp!
We all here know that the stereo Hi-Fi or not Sucks, true? I own a R55 '08 and I want to enhance my Clubman's sound. Can you blame me? I just ordered the speaker splicer from Mike via NewMiniStuff.com to add an amp without splicing my warranty. I'm fabricating my own spare tire sub enclosure(will send pic's apon completion). My problem is HOW DO YOU GET TO THE STOCK STEREO TO INSTALL MY SPEAKER SPLICER LOOM? Mini Cooper stereo Gods, please help.

 

I just installed the JL Cleansweep to upgrade the amp in my 08 MCS with HiFi system. The Cleansweep includes it's own separate volume control for adjusting the sound level of the system. Though I could set the Cleansweep volume ****, tuck it away and use the factory volume control to mange the volume of the system, the Cleansweep sounds MUCH better using it's volume control. So my question is, can i pull the factory volume **** from the console, tuck it away behind the dash and put the Cleansweep volume control in the console to replace it?

If anyone who has taken apart the stereo might know about this, I would appreciate the info so I don't take the dash apart only to find that I can not move the factory volume control ****.

Thanks in advance.

 

It should have come with instructions but if it did not here is a thread you will be interested in.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...em-stereo.html

 

As you can see from the pictures in this post

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...991-post5.html

The volume control is part of the radio system and it can not easily be moved.

 

how about installing the volume **** in the front of the shifter console where i have a switch? unless you got the nav controls there.

 

Thanks for the suggestion lacning74 but i would prefer to replace the stock volume control for multiple reasons. When you calibrate the Cleansweep, you don't want to change the factory volume from then on, else you would have to re-calibrate it for the best sound. And since our beloved MINI's don't display a volume level and the volume control position is not linear but relative, i would like to avoid even accidentally moving the factory volume control ****, best to just tuck it away. If i can just find out if i can remove the factory control **** and replace it with the Cleansweep, that would be ideal. Ultimately if i don't get an answer, i'll just open her up and see what's going on for myself.


Hey, how do you like your JL front speakers by the way?
Thanks!

 

my jl's sound surprisingly good with the stock system. even better when enhanced through my carpc's equalizer/boost settings.

unfortunately the "faceplate" of the headunit is not separable so you won't have room to recess the cleansweep volume **** module cleanly. i would be scared to get out my dremel. maybe you can just pull the plastic **** and plug the hole once you set it.

 

Ok, I see the volume control **** and the back of the radio in the photos. So are you saying that the volume control **** is in the box that I see in the photo from the back? It i not hanging just below the box? Bummer. So I would have to actually pull the faceplate off the radio, take the radio box apart and pull the volume control **** from there, IF there aren't a lot of fancy circuits hooked up to it or in the way. Just let me know if I am understanding you right.

And yes, I did pull the volume control know, just to keep myself from accidentally using it! Good idea for now.

 

I have the Parrot 3000 complete kit from New Mini Stuff ($206.00 at current exchange rate). I was looking at the instructions and he says to "remove the optic cables from the factory plug and put them in the new plug". Every thing I see has a place to go so I am a bit unclear about what he is talking about. Can you give me a better idea?

Jim

 

Disregard the question. I just took a closer look at the new plug and figured it out myself.

Thanks anyway,

Jim

 

Hey Jim

I just got a parrot kit in the mail from the UK too. How was the install?? I was looking at the instructions and all the wires this morning. I swapped out the stereo in my old Honda Civic myself a few years ago so I have some "experience"... Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

 

I'll let you know this weekend as I plan to do the install tomorrow. It is suppose to be warm, clear and very nice which will be the first day like that we have had. There is a U-Tube that shows a person removing the stero which I have watched several times.

Part I: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc0NZXTJDFk
Part II: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNPtvYA4Q7k

Jim

 

Excellent! That rocks!

 

Those videos are very helpful for me, even though I'm not doing anything to the stereo it shows me exactly how much work it would be to add the rear fog toggle switch and cover. Now I just have to decide if it's worth the effort....

 

You can print this out too if you do not already have it. There are a few points mentioned here that are not in the instructions with the kit.

R56 Rear Fog Light Retro-Fit.pdf

Jim

 

It looks like a long job, but I have a feeling it might not be so bad. I repaired helicopters in the Army (that I flew in) merely by folowing the instructions in the manual and I'm still here to tell about it. My mini will not be leaving the ground on the after instalation test drive, so how bad can it be? Go for it!

Jim

 

Have you never watched Top Gear? "How hard can it be" are the famous words spoken before everything they attempt goes wrong :D

 

Of course everything that can go wrong will, but the actual task still remains basicly easy.

Jim

 

PRORESS REPORT #1:

I had about an hour before I had to start my evening chores and you all got me all worked about this project, so I decided I would get a head start for tomorrow.

This is very streight forward. It looks harded in the U-Tube then it actually is. As you get started you see the screws that need to come out very clearly. 20 minutes and I have the lower dash cover off, the dash trim off, the center stack side plates off, the covers behind the secret compartment off, the two color line soft panels off, the cover behind the aux jack off and the ring around the speedo off.

NOTE: The two hidden screws at the top of the speedo which are down in the vent are hard. Getting them out was OK, but getting them back in might pose a problem merely because you can not see them.

NOTE: I have a 2009 Cooper and some of the screw placements for the soft panels are not the same as in the U-Tube which was a 2007. The 2009 is much simpler.

That is it for now, got to go feed the horses. Next progress report tomorrow.

Jim

 

I lied. Still had som day light left so I went back to work.

PROGRESS REPORT #2:

There are some differences in the U-Tube so follow the instructions that came with your Parrot. In the lower part of the center stack the video says to remove three screws but you only have to remove one (It is a T-30 not a T-40 as the instructions say) The video shows removing four screws to release the center stack, but there are only the two side screws. There are two pressure tabs at the top of the stck that are tight. Use a screw driver a gently pry them lose.

Once the stack is free there are four plugs to disconnect. The top one is the fan. Press the two prongs on eaither side in and it will pull out. The next two are just like in the video. The bottom one for the AUX Jack was odd. There are two silver pressure tabs in each side. Press them in and push the entire thing out the front, then turn it sideways and push it back through.

When you turn the center stack over there are four screws. Remove them and the center part comes out. Use a screw driver to pop the switch cover off. Insert the new toggle and put the new cover on. It is that simple. If you do not have a new cover, the plug will pop out useing two pressure tabs.

Everything is now lose and the radio unit will come out. It is getting dark now so instalation of the Parrot will be tomorrow.

This really is not anything to be afraid of. It looks harder then it really is.

Jim

 

Final Report:

Done. Trying to fit everything in is a real test. I do not have the CD Changer so I had that shelf to work with and it was still tight. If you have the Changer I have no idea where you would put everything. Keep the two boxes close to the center of the shelf or the center stack cover will not fit back on.

Just follow the instruction that come with the Parrott and you will be fine.

It is sure nice to have the MFSW buttons work. Much sinpler then trying to use the hands free feature in the Garmin.

Jim

 

whoa! sick photos dude! and very insightful too...

this will come in handy when i decide to add a hidden usb port to my lighter/12v socket

 

Yay you got my video links :P I'll be improving this video soon enough. Any suggestions?

 

hi there, any one try to install the usb and aux connector like the present model. what harness cable need to buy or is it like the dice device need to buy realy cost $$$.

mc 2007.