Here are the instructions in dutch:
http://www.student.ru.nl/g.t.visser/...adio%20R56.doc

 

Love the pictures.

 

I had my head unit out in about an hour to install my bluetooth setup. There is a lot of space behind the comfort controls to hide stuff.

I went with the Parrot 3100K with a wiring loom and a multican switch box from newministuff.com for about $170 and $150.00 for 3100k I bought at Best Buy the complete set up was $320.00. Mikey supplies excellent instructions for the installation for removing the factory head unit (only 29 screws) with pictures. It is a true plug and play system, with MFSW controls it works awesome.

You may save a little money buying everything here in the US but the great instructions and knowing that this setup is sold and partially designed and built by a MINI owner made it worth the extra I spent.

He also has several speaker harness's that look very nice and with no headaches in trying to splice any wires.

 

This should probably be designated a "STICKIE" by the powers-that-be here!

 

RealOEM shows separate part numbers for the Nav screen and the surround so this seems feasible.

 

t

 

Is there an aftermarket wiring harness made for the r56?
Or do these fit?
http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=70-9003
http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=71-9003

 

I need to tap into the ( non Hi-Fi ) HU's speaker out connector to run a set of stereo wires to a processor I'm installing ( Audiocontrol DQL-8 ). Is there access to reach under and disconnect the connector from the HU without removing anything? If not, what would you suggest as a minimal step way to get access to the connector?

Thanx,

Bill

 

Sorry as far as i can can remember the whole thing unit needs to come out (that includes the tacho as they are connected)

 

Let you know 100% on that in a few days got my on ebay a bit cheaper.... same metra part numbers... For now im using them to power aftermarket gauges, but i'm planing (long term) on changing the front door setup adding the pillar tweeters using the oem covers and adding an amp somewhere in the mix.

 

Any pictures with after market deck installed already? Would like to see how it looks.... Really want a HD deck....

 

Ah bugger..

"I need to tap into the ( non Hi-Fi ) HU's speaker out connector to run a set of stereo wires to a processor I'm installing ( Audiocontrol DQL-8 ). Is there access to reach under and disconnect the connector from the HU without removing anything? If not, what would you suggest as a minimal step way to get access to the connector?"

geeza-r56s "Sorry as far as i can can remember the whole thing unit needs to come out (that includes the tacho as they are connected)."

 

Has anyone done any more work on removing and possibly replacing the factory stereo? I'm really curious about where the brains are that run the fuel gauge, speedo, and warning lights. Is the a seperate connector for it or does it run through the stereo?

Also, would you need to keep the controls that are in the lower portion of the speedo for any of the menu functions?

Any updated info would be appreciated

 

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+1

 

I too am very curious about the possibilities of removing the factory stereo...I just installed the JL Clean sweep along with an alpine 5 channel amp...sounds fantastic but I hate how the stock stereo has an auto mute every time the system starts up. Juggling between the stock stereo's volume **** along with the JL clean sweeps volume **** makes things difficult.

 

Any tips on removing the plastic part behind the steering colum? I'm stuck! Just can't get it out... That, and the plastic part where the secret compartment is...

 

I used the tool with a hook end on it -
if the picture doesn't work visit the link to see what i mean = http://www.jcwhitney.com/PRECISION-M...7970_10101.jcw
Each panel has about 4 points ( 1 in each corner) all you do is hook around the back of the corners and pull towards you and the panels pop out.
Get a set of these tools as they always come in handy if you are playing with cars.

 

Excellent! I got mine off with a flathead screwdriver, some electrical tape and a cloth. I just wraped some electrical tape around the end of the flathead and used the cloth to keep from sctratching the trim or anything else while I pried it off. :D

On another note, how do you remove the trim on the side of the car (the same trim thats next to the door jam? I'm trying to mount the amp under the passenger seat, but I don't want to cut the carpet...

Thanks!

 

Any update on the metra part numbers? do they work?

 

Just spotted this, so if it isn't too late, you can get at all the speaker signals at the X9331 connector which is just ahead of the driver's door -- no need to disassemble the dash to get to the rear of the radio!

Check the Speaker Swap thread for pics, pinouts, and wiring colours.

 

Right, but I'm thinking of adding an aftermarket AMP to the Non-HIFI system, I'd like to do it without cutting the factory wiring if possible. I don't think the parts for the x9331 connector are available (male and female ends) to allow me to make a harness to insert my Amp.

 

newministuff has a plug and play loom that inserts in the back of the stereo.

 

Dan--

In adding my sub, I popped the pins out (did that for the channel swap anyway) and connected to the tail end of the pins, then pushed the pins back into the socket body. Clean, no hacking into harness wiring (and far easier than digging into the center console to pull the radio out).

The male and female pins certainly are available -- part numbers posted in the channel swap thread.

Part numbers on the X9331 connectors:

Male: BMW 1378137
Female: BMW 1378139-B5

 

100 times the work to get to the same pieces of wire.

 

Does anyone know if the connection to the standard speedo is the same as the navigation version?

If I swapped out a standard speedo with a nav one, will I need to modify the connector to get the speed, fuel gauge and other warning lights (assuming they're all on there) to work?

thanks.