WTB:: Need Shocks/Struts please
Need Shocks/Struts please
Category: Suspension
Price: $1
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part fits (you may select multiples): R56
Location (Region): NorthEast
Item Condition: Used
I've got a set of sport shocks with 50k on them, and a set of shocks with 15k (I think that they are non-sport, but I haven't looked at them in a while).
What makes you say that your shocks are blown? Are they leaking? Were they run with lowering springs?
Let me know your thoughts,
Mike
What makes you say that your shocks are blown? Are they leaking? Were they run with lowering springs?
Let me know your thoughts,
Mike
Not sure if you searched the Marketplace but there are a couple sets out there. This is the one I was thinking of for you. I assume a 2013 would fit a 2007 but not really sure: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3901475
I've got a set of sport shocks with 50k on them, and a set of shocks with 15k (I think that they are non-sport, but I haven't looked at them in a while).
What makes you say that your shocks are blown? Are they leaking? Were they run with lowering springs?
Let me know your thoughts,
Mike
What makes you say that your shocks are blown? Are they leaking? Were they run with lowering springs?
Let me know your thoughts,
Mike
They rattle when I hit any bumps. I'd be interested in the 15K shocks. I don't know the difference between sport and regular, but I'd prefer for the ones with fewer miles since the car only as 43K miles on it as is. I have no idea what's existing.
Not sure if you searched the Marketplace but there are a couple sets out there. This is the one I was thinking of for you. I assume a 2013 would fit a 2007 but not really sure: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3901475
Agreed, I wouldn't expect old shocks/struts to make any noise. Sway bar bushings maybe, or anything else that may not be original to the car.
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Also, Sport suspension, as an option, is VERY stiff, as in going over speed bumps it seems like there is no movement of the suspension at all and the interior of the car may shake/rattle more than expected. However the regular suspension that comes with an S model Mini is not a optional "Sport" suspension and is firm yet not overly stiff. I do not know if the suspension that comes on a non-S model is the same as an S model or softer. I would like to know.
just fyi if you're still interested:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-2k-miles.html
i've got the stock shocks from a 2013 base cooper with less than 2,000 miles on them for sale. 250 shipped
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-2k-miles.html
i've got the stock shocks from a 2013 base cooper with less than 2,000 miles on them for sale. 250 shipped
I'd be happy to sell you shocks, but I agree with the other comments that the noises are probably a different problem. The way that I understand, base coopers have one set of shocks, then the S has shocks that are different (labels say 'Cooper S'), then there are optional 'Sport' shocks for the S (shock labels say 'Sport'). I assume that they get progressively stiffer going from base to S to Sport.
Drive over some bumps and potholes and try and isolate the corner that the noise is coming from. There are helpful people here to help diagnose problems.
Mike
Drive over some bumps and potholes and try and isolate the corner that the noise is coming from. There are helpful people here to help diagnose problems.
Mike
Thanks for your input,
The sound is coming from the left rear. I am not sure if its related I guess given all that info. But it definitely takes the bumps hard. I hit a pot hole on the highway last week and it was LOUD. I thought I was going to lose another tire.
Maybe I can have this mechanic across the park look at the shocks. I asked him when he changed the tires but I think he forgot to actually look because when i asked when picking up his answer was kind of a vague non answer.
Maybe I can have this mechanic across the park look at the shocks. I asked him when he changed the tires but I think he forgot to actually look because when i asked when picking up his answer was kind of a vague non answer.
The sound is coming from the left rear. I am not sure if its related I guess given all that info. But it definitely takes the bumps hard. I hit a pot hole on the highway last week and it was LOUD. I thought I was going to lose another tire.
Maybe I can have this mechanic across the park look at the shocks. I asked him when he changed the tires but I think he forgot to actually look because when i asked when picking up his answer was kind of a vague non answer.
Maybe I can have this mechanic across the park look at the shocks. I asked him when he changed the tires but I think he forgot to actually look because when i asked when picking up his answer was kind of a vague non answer.
That said, chances are pretty good that I will be needing shocks in the near future, kyoo and zre I will be in touch. My mom lives in New Hartford so I might be able to come by on my way there from the city.
okay - let me know soon here - and actually u just need the rears right?
cuz i think this guy https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uspension.html
just needs the fronts - PM him, LMK
cuz i think this guy https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uspension.html
just needs the fronts - PM him, LMK
SOoooo.
Mechanic looked at it yesterday because my engine light went on - that's a story for a whole new post.
He said the shocks all look fine. I have no idea what the noise is, and it doesn't happen all the time. I have a bigger fish to fry now unfortunately.
Thanks for all the input.
He said the shocks all look fine. I have no idea what the noise is, and it doesn't happen all the time. I have a bigger fish to fry now unfortunately.
Thanks for all the input.
I started trying to replace my front struts and stripped out the torx end of the steering tie rod due to corrosion. Had a hell of a time getting the tie rod off and replacing it. Anyway I had also left one of the upper sway bar end links loose by about 1/4-1/2 turn and this caused a surprisingly loud knocking/rattling noise when driving over the slightest bump or turning hard left/right rapidly.
First drive with all windows down. You should be able to hear the corner the sound comes from. Remove the wheel. Use an 18mm box/open wrench (not a socket wrench) and a 5mm hey key/wrench to tighten both sway bar end links. The end link is a silver rod with round ends and about 10 inches long. You can't use a socket wrench because it will cover the hex socket used to counter torque. There are two places you need to do this on each corner of the car: the upper end and the lower end of each sway bar link. You may need to turn the steering wheel a little to access the upper end links.
You can't just look or pry to see if it's tight, you gotta actually check/tighten this stuff. Oh, and I've only worked on the front of my car so the rear may be different.
Hope you get this and the new problem fixed.
First drive with all windows down. You should be able to hear the corner the sound comes from. Remove the wheel. Use an 18mm box/open wrench (not a socket wrench) and a 5mm hey key/wrench to tighten both sway bar end links. The end link is a silver rod with round ends and about 10 inches long. You can't use a socket wrench because it will cover the hex socket used to counter torque. There are two places you need to do this on each corner of the car: the upper end and the lower end of each sway bar link. You may need to turn the steering wheel a little to access the upper end links.
You can't just look or pry to see if it's tight, you gotta actually check/tighten this stuff. Oh, and I've only worked on the front of my car so the rear may be different.
Hope you get this and the new problem fixed.
Been too swamped at work. SO. I took the car to MINI because the local guys couldnt figure out my engine light and had it diagnosed for no charged BECAUSE< the timing chain that is a factory alert was not the revised so after a month and two stays in the shop, all told they:
1) Changed timing chain and tensioner
2) Changed the water pump
3) changed the valve cap
4) replaced the axel seal, (THIS it would seam was what was causing the noise because it had a pretty bad leak)
I'll post about this stuff in another thread. I was looking for advice on who to take it to, but I bit the bullet and took it to Prestige, they weren't too much higher than the place in Brooklyn AND they gave me a loaner. AND Carolyn the service person who helped me was fantastic.
I do have another mystery very annying squuking noise, but it's inside. like something needing some WD 40 or something, that's another post alltogether.
RE: the shocks, I will probably want to replace them with something a little smoother riding, but I just dropped $1500 on all this so that will wait.
Thank you all so much for your help
1) Changed timing chain and tensioner
2) Changed the water pump
3) changed the valve cap
4) replaced the axel seal, (THIS it would seam was what was causing the noise because it had a pretty bad leak)
I'll post about this stuff in another thread. I was looking for advice on who to take it to, but I bit the bullet and took it to Prestige, they weren't too much higher than the place in Brooklyn AND they gave me a loaner. AND Carolyn the service person who helped me was fantastic.
I do have another mystery very annying squuking noise, but it's inside. like something needing some WD 40 or something, that's another post alltogether.
RE: the shocks, I will probably want to replace them with something a little smoother riding, but I just dropped $1500 on all this so that will wait.
Thank you all so much for your help
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