Going to document repairs/problems I run into while trying to salvage this clubman. Sunroof leak flooded car and corroded the fuse panel. I bought it in a not running state. No telling what I will find as I get closer to running. Have lots of documentation with the car along with the original window sticker. No telling what you buy when dealing with no-start condition.

Trailering it home

Gutting the wet interior

3/4” water on driver side pass side had holes open in the floor.

Corrosion. He tried to clean the connectors up and broke pins off the board bottom left connector is the worst

Wires corroded off

 

Looks like I’m going to need the fuse box coded. Anyone in the southern md area with the tooling to do this.

 

That’s a lot of water!

There was another member that had restored a few flood salvage cars. Can’t remember the user name, but some searching might turn it up. You might want to do some reading and investing in ncs expert.

 

Back on the trailer again. After lots of corrosion mitigation, some cussing, and soldering of wires it’s alive. Now to my shop to repair the broken flex pipe and try to code the fuse box. Looking at ncs expert. Website is hard to understand.

 

Got ncs expert on my windows 10 computer. Talks to the car but I’m not good enough with computers to understand this program. Hoping to find someone local or virtual that can walk me through this.

 

After much time playing with ncs expert and an expensive trip to the dealer identified no communication to the pt-can. They cannot program the new fuse box module. Voltage to the twisted pair reads 4.2vdc on the low side and 4.5 on the high side. At a loss

 

https://gyazo.com/3ac43ee926db87d43d7ae056dd30ff68
Heres all the modules on the PT-Can. ^
https://gyazo.com/2fa511720cc9e08697c2aeb4e244b235
^These are the modules with a terminating resistor in them, they are the modules at the ends of line. From what I found online its 120ohms, have the ignition off and either back probe with everything connected and see if you get 60ohms, theres two 60ohms resistors in the end modules. If you get 120 then its open somewhere.
In one of your pictures the footwell module looks very close to the water on the drivers side. Maybe just unplug it and see if everything comes back up.

 

Thanks for the help Neonled. Tested at the junction box and got 125ohms. If I’m understanding correctly I should be able to unplug the eps module and get 60ohms reading at the module. Coming up with 123ohms. Give or take some for my lowes special meter. So this would lead to believe the resistor is burnt out in this module.

 

If you unplug it, it will read 120ish ohms. if the circuit is complete (plugged in) it should read 60ohms. So if you were to back probe from the footwell module it should be 60ohms. or back probe into one of the end modules , like the eps it should read 60ohms.
So if you unplug the connector with pins 52 and 39 that run to the footwell module then touch pins 3 and 4 on the connector on the Junction box for the steering column switch cluster it should read 120ohms since the circuit is open, with ignition off. Can also test from pins 52 and 39 that runs towards the footwell module then through all the other modules in that line to the EPS and see what you get there as well. Should also be 120ohms since it disconnected.
Idk if you have the connector overview for the junction box, if you dont here it is. https://gyazo.com/ca8d0a0752dbc39712caa359d7ac080d
Seems like the theres crimp connections for the ECU, DSC, and EPS here. https://gyazo.com/b0346309ec80eedf132e2f6cc46dd0fd