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Getting some good practice at removing the transmission....
From what I can see... single mass flywheel with a solid disc clutch plate? With that configuration, there is no give in the clutch when engaging - all the engine torque is shock loading the drive splines and clutch plate rivets. I'm a little surprised it lasted as long as it did.
Say what you will about the dual mass flywheel, but they are very good at absorbing shock loads and vibrations. Sprung hub clutch discs are good at absorbing shock loads, but not so great at vibrations, which is why Mini uses a dual mass flywheel. Making the change to a single mass flywheel necessitates a change to a sprung hub clutch disc. Shame on JMTC for going in that direction with their kits. (not the first poor design choice I've seen from them, either.) My other assumption would be that Clutchmasters made their disc to be used with an OEM flywheel.
I hope you get some resolution from the vendors for this, but its a really bad design choice, in my opinion.
Good point about the solid plate. I had a Helix clutch / flywheel kit installed in my car. Single mass, full-faced sprung disc. It drives absolutely great. Grabs with a natural feel. No slip, but also not a sudden jolt. Really smooth, no vibration. And spins a little faster than stock as well. They say it holds more power than any of us are likely to ever make. I believe CM's stage 1 is full-faced and sprung, probably better for a street car.
I was just looking at the Clutchmaster site, and it looks like their kits are broken up into two catagories: sprung hub for use with Clutchmasters solid flywheel, and solid hub for use with OEM flywheel.
Sounds like one more reason to use OS Giken. My single mass clutch / flywheel has been handling 400ft-lbs of torque for a couple years now, and been in use since 2012. Still going strong, and treating my old bones comfortably. Well worth the added cost.
OBW if only OS Giken made a kit for the F series :( Hell I wish I had a twin disc, explain to me why R53 and R56 owners have access to twin discs but F56 owners do not have such a setup lol.
Ever since I had the clutch installed since day one in October it had issues with getting the clutch to get into gear compared to the JMTC unit. I was ignoring it thinking that it probably was just my shifter linkages going bad on my car. It really was a spline issue from the start, I don't how off the tolerances are with the clutch spline hub or how strong the metal was that was used. The unsprung vs sprung debate wouldn't really heavily come into play honestly because personally I've chatted with some F56 owners in europe that have no issues running an unsprung clutch with a single mass flywheel. If anything running an unsprung Fx300 expedited the wear on the splines because of the tolerance flaws.
Running an unsprung setup with an unsprung SMF it would either cause small input shaft wear or wear out transmission internals as most would discuss. All that happened with me deciding to go this route was to show that there WAS flaws with JMTC's clutches @ the rivets, don't know if they rectified the issue or not. I still have to get the Fx300 kit pulled from the trans and sent out to clutchmasters to have them rockwell test it. Trying to document this so that everyone who is on the market for clutch kits know what to look for, granted not all F56 owners are pushing 318 torque to the wheels
Last edited by Triwingar; Apr 22, 2020 at 03:52 PM.
Ouch, that sucks! Hope they make it right for you. Pretty great solution to gain access to undo it at the flywheel. Though I can't picture what you did from there- a 90-degree attachment on an air impact?
With the access hole we were able to get a miniature ratchet in there that can have allen key attachments slotted in, It was just enough clearance to get the pressure plate bolts off luckily. Wish they had an access hole in the first place with these transmissions and lucky that we found the right spot to make a hole on the first try
Found the issue on why the clutch splines failed, which was due to the lack of surface area on the spline hub. Left to right: Jmtc 6 puck - clutchmasters fx300 - oem
Bought and installed a TTV racing 5 puck ceramic clutch and single mass flywheel. First impressions on the product, I must say the craftmanship is amazing. The design and cut of the flywheel is pretty sweet, quality unit from the UK, have to see how it holds up! 12 rivets hold on the centerplate which is way beefier than JMTC's 8 rivets. Driving impressions I'd say is pretty sweet with the clutch bite. With this kit it bites so down low compared to the JMTC and Clutchmasters units Also installed the recaro speed seats in the car with some steel brackets made to hold the seat in place. These fit in the car no problem and they hold you in snuggly compared to the OEM sport seats.
I'm pretty excited that the car is running again, I have an NM 25mm rear sway bar sitting in the garage waiting to be thrown on. Ideally what should be next on the mod list is a big brake kit and a half cage. Lets see what happens months from now
Current modifications update:
Dyno'd at 284whp/318wtq
Keeping the story short for times sake. 40k hard miles tuned, 80k miles total. Misfire led to compression test, spark plug in cylinder 2 soaked in oil. 90psi in cylinder 2 vs 150 in the other cylinders which we all know is not a pleasant sign. 4 months it sat till this present day. Me and my friend pulled out the motor in 5 hours, going to tear down the motor to see how it looks internally. Oil has no visible metal which is a good thing at least. Definitely will throw forged pistons and rods, potentially a turbo upgrade in the future? Wastegate flap doesn't close and has a good half of a millimeter to close as it is currently sitting which is unusual. Enjoy the pics
Time to consider a Cylinder Support System --- https://cylindersupportsystem.com/?f...R26x53-qiqMq0Q Lotsa work --- gotta strip the entire engine down then pack it for shipping, but well worth the time and money as you approach 300WHP.
Time to consider a Cylinder Support System --- https://cylindersupportsystem.com/?f...R26x53-qiqMq0Q Lotsa work --- gotta strip the entire engine down then pack it for shipping, but well worth the time and money as you approach 300WHP.
I will have to research around, big boost got the b48 motor to 500whp/600wtq by building the bottom end, adding secondary fueling,upgrading the heat exchanger, and turbo. The block itself is strong enough with the closed deck design so I have heard. But research is key
Timing chain side of the motor for your viewing pleasure Top side view of the long block Piston #2 had some small stress cracks which we chipped away to show the damage
Ordered all of the needed parts along with some supertech 10.2:1 pistons, keeping the rods stock. Figured the main limitations as to why the B series motors blow up pistons is because of their small oem turbo. So much heat caused low speed pre-ignition causing unwanted detonation hence the piston failures. By shifting the power band towards the mid-high rpm ranges it should alleviate the issue along with proper tuning.
Always was a good question as to why the Supra B48tu is a more stout motor while using the same compression ratio. They aren't plagued with extreme down low cylinder pressures and heat. Definitely planning on upsizing the turbo in the future
Last edited by Triwingar; Oct 9, 2021 at 07:00 AM.
Such a beauty of a clutch setup Motor and trans mated before being dropped into the engine bay Finally in
the car itself has been decomissioned for a whole year, yikes! Thanks to covid there was part delays, jam packed engine shops, and the busy life. Everything lined up the past month getting the engine back from the BMW specialist down the street from me. After piecing everything together me and my friend buttoned up the motor and trans throwing it in together through the front end of the car. All that really is left is to get the axles, front end, and ecu components all reassembled. Just in time to have it run for a month and have it hibernate through winter
Still so far from being done. Currently in the process of being broken in for 1000 miles. Definitely a change in pace driving the F56 coming from a R51 pathfinder as my DD. Almost forgot how fun these cars are, it's like falling in love again lol Wrapped the front support bars white and installed the Mosshammer front winglets Night time cruising to rack up some miles
So what's up next? Long time viewer, but never posted. I've got to change that going forward. Sometimes we all need to know people recognize what we're up to. The transformation is looking good.
So what's up next? Long time viewer, but never posted. I've got to change that going forward. Sometimes we all need to know people recognize what we're up to. The transformation is looking good.
Hey thanks for viewing the thread! Currently breaking in the motor which has been going smoothly. 400 miles in so far going to knock out an oil change this weekend. I'm sitting on the fence between getting Bootmod3 or getting dyno tuned by Mobile one inc in Glenview Illinois. Should get some dyno numbers with the oem flash just to see where it is sitting at. Eventually the brakes on this car will have to be addressed/upgraded maybe next year. Also plan on snagging a half cage to complete the interior. Once the car is paid off by next year I plan on having some fun on the track. Definitely will keep this thread updated
Ran a non oem wheel liner and half of it in the left wheel well tore in half and took one of the mounting points of my mosshammer winglets off. Need to figure out a fix and probably order new oem liners.
Still cannot believe that this F56 is running now after all the delays through a full year of waiting
Last edited by Triwingar; Oct 9, 2021 at 07:01 AM.
Bought a Bootmod3 stage 2 tune for giggles while waiting for dyno tuning session to open up. Apparently DME is locked past the 2019 update that my car went through so the loading of the tune failed. Brick/ sleep mode? Car pretty much wont start and BM3 tech support via email is slow to respond. Will keep everyone updated
After emailing back and forth they were able to revise the stock map to allow it to revert back. Just a warning for anyone with a locked DME that BM3 has yet to leap over that hurdle
Last edited by Triwingar; Oct 17, 2021 at 04:59 AM.
It has been a good few months since I have last posted. So as an update the clutches in the past were going out because of the lack of dowel pins. It's enough of a misalignment to break clutch hubs. Granted out of all the units used the TTV unit was the best designed and had great customers service!
The car has been running for 3k odd miles or so since the engine build, the trans has a tiny leak from the Rtv seal so eventually plan to fix that user error. August of 2020 I had my ecu updated and relocked by the good old dealership, lost my tune in the process right? Talked to Jason from Mobile one inc in Glenview who has the hardware to tune and reupload data into the ecu. The ECU was bench unlocked easily and the original Rpm file was loaded. Handy information for anyone in the midwest area wanting to tune a locked ecu. The car absolutely rips again and cannot be happier having it back to her old self. Alterations to the file will be eventually made to tend to the cold start along with other requests
Since the ECU was unlocked I loaded up my BM3 Stage 2 tune that I had sitting for a good long while. So I can make an honest comparison to the two tunes. While RPM makes a boat load of torque midrange when going mid to WOT, it literally kicks you in the butt 24/7. The car always wanted to go fast and would die out up top. The linear throttle mapping kind of made the car too lively, for those wanting to relax this wouldn't be the tune for you. For those that want the huge surge of torque, it's quite the party
BM3's ots tune is kind of peaky with the boost. There is a gradual pick up in speed, once you get past 4k rpm it becomes lively. Little bit more liveable with day to day commuting tbh and it saves gas. The configurable settings is a nice touch, cold start was removed and the roar startup does absolutely nothing. I removed the cars burbles because it was driving me insane having gun shot noises. For those inquiring about removing it to switch modes, the car has a cravenspeed shift cover so I lost my mode selector. Eventually I would like to get a tuner to custom make a map down the line since the access is already there.
Both tunes are a riot to be had, I feel like the RPM tune would be better on the track vs BM3. I don't have any regrets running either tune
