Best way would be to key the crank, oil and cam sprockets while apart. At this point though a custom length ARP2000 stud could be a really good option. You could even add a second nut for a little extra insurance.

As my old Gunny used to say. "Just cause you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.".

 

My tuner, EurotechAZ, is suggesting loctite red. Without looking up the catalog, I don't know the functional difference between the red and blue, but I'm not likely to dis-assemble and re-do the bolt. The eurotechAZ fix involves locking the bolt --- looks promising.

There is a kit available for BMW's that has hub and sprockets as one piece --- http://gintani.com/product/gintani-f...k-hub-solution/ Looks like it also mods the crank for a key too. Costs about the same as a valve job, then installation looks like a complete engine teardown, to mod the crank.

 

Received Eurotechs "crank bolt lock" yesterday, installed it today, paid homage to my favorite gods, and hit the Start button. SUCCESS!

Here's a cut-away view of a similar device, showing how the lock functions ---


A view of what it looks like installed --- kinda the reverse of the above cut-away, because our bolt is recessed in the damper, not protruding as shown above.


In an earlier post, I mentioned a "lope" from the cams on initial start-up. I made a video hoping to capture the lope on this start-up, but, no lope, just engine idle, so I trashed the video. I was surprised at how easy the lock installed. I expected to loosen the belt tensioner and friction wheel, then lock the crank. None of that --- just remove the tire and fender liner. Vibration damper didn't fall off when un-bolted, as I expected. Might have if it was wiggled or jarred somehow, but being careful got it done. Whole chore took about 2 hours, and I'm slow. Hardest part was torquing the 3 new bolts without locking the flywheel, but I was able to get the full 28Nm applied to all three new bolts.

Now to get insurance re-instated, then a trip to DMV --- next week. Over the weekend, I'll clean it up a bit, set the clock, etc. I might take it out to the street so I can turn it around in the garage (and check clutch, tranny, etc) --- I like it nose-in, with exhaust pointing out the big double door. Tow truck dumped it off "backwards". Picky, picky, picky!

 

Mon - insurance re-instated
Tue - DMV registration completed
Wed (today) - A/C serviced and "mild" test runs done. Not gonna get on it for awhile, just put on some (s)miles and clean it up.

Now that I'm back on the road, I find that the problem I was troubleshooting when the engine failed is still there --- P28AA Bypass Valve Error. It's a Turbosmart Kompact Universal Fit Dual Port BOV (TS-0203-1022) connected as a Diverter Valve. What I need to do next is figure out where to best connect the input, output and vacuum/boost line. My original connections were disrupted by installing the ICI pipe. It worked pretty good then, but I didn't want to add a fitting to the pipe for the DV --- maybe as a last resort. First, I'll try to find another source for the vac/boost hose --- minimum length is best and it's currently 2 - 3 ft long.

 

The vacuum source needs to be downstream of the throttle so that the vacuum at throttle closure opens the BOV. Start at one turn in from when the BOV housing covers the o-ring and adjust in by half turns from there. Flutter is whats triggering the error. Even with mine dialed in pretty well I would occasionally get the same when I had the Manic tune. Fourth gear or above, steady state driving, roll on the throttle to a couple of psi and suddenly close the throttle. That would sometimes cause the BOV to flutter and trigger the code. When I retuned it I took care of it. Eurotech can easily do the same when you go for your re-tune by either adjusting the debounce limit in the diagnostic routine or masking out the error.

 

Thanx Tigger2011, I just shortened the vac hose to about two ft. If that doesn't help, I'll try your re-adjust process. A re-tune isn't in the near future.

 

Glad to help. You didn't mention where your BOV output is plumbed into. Pre-turbo inlet yes?

 

Yes.

 

.

 

When I broke it last year, I was chasing a P28AA CEL --- a diverter valve problem. After putting it back together this time, the CEL was still there. Time to fix it! With a big Garrett, an external DV is required, so I've been using a Turbosmart Kompact Universal Dual Port BOV, configured as a DV. Originally, it was connected between the throttle body and MAP/T sensor, dumping excess into the turbo inlet. It was working fine until I blew a valve. During that rebuild, I installed JMTC's ICI pipe and there was no pace to connect the DV, so I moved it to a hose between the turbo outlet and the FMIC inlet. Shortly after that I started getting the P28AA CEL. First thought was the ECU didn't like the pressure difference between the turbo outlet and intake manifold MAP sensor --- the DV "nipple" connection, so I tried adjustments and spacers to tighten the internal spring tension. No help! It was during this "adjustment phase that the crank bolt came loose last year.

So yesterday, I disassembled the DV to remove the spacers and start over. That's when I discovered the DV internal "piston" was locked in place --- wouldn't budge. Finally, with a not-to-big hammer and a long skinny object with a smooth round surface, I was able to remove this piston. After a quick inspection for damage and a lot of solvents, both the piston and cylinder were cleaned, re-assembled, and seem to be working smoothly. Put it back in the car, adjusted it to minimum spring tension (as described by Tigger2011 above) and took it for a quick test drive. NO CEL's! Still haven't pushed the boost beyond about 15PSI, so it might want a small adjustment once I get it ready for serious driving. I'm doing a quick "break-in" on the engine 'cause I had it completely disassembled, and I'm starting with non-synthetic oil to collect any left-over crud from my work. Don't want to push the turbo to max without synthetic oil, and that's at least a week or so away.

 

Great work OBW, dont you just hate when you're trying to solve a problem and the solution is not even close to where you've been looking? When you catch the solution from the corner of your eye it's "what the.....dangit there it is" moment. Good info for others doing similar work.

 

OK, oil's been changed to 5W-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Adjusted the DV a couple full turns but still get an occasional DV CEL. Might have to ignore it 'til I get it back to a tuner to defeat the CEL from happening. Put about 500 miles on it then prepped it for a dyno pull or two --- want to find out if the added WMI jets had any measurable effect on performance. Ran my gas tank down to about two gals of 91octane then added 5 gals of VP100. Drove over a nice small mountainous twisty road for about 20 miles then another 10 miles or so to the dyno shop --- should have mixed up the two octanes pretty good.

After a couple pulls and re-adjustment of the Manual Boost Controller, I put down the following charts ---



I can't explain why the numbers are different by one or two, but at this level, it doesn't make a lot of difference. Next time I'll ask for a chart with better data --- RPM's instead of time, and boost as a third plot (this 29PSI was max, noted from my external gauge). The shop's AFR tool didn't have a cable long enough to stay in place, so it isn't reported. A separate data log shows boost following the torque curve, similar to earlier dyno charts, so it appears this GTX2860R is just too small for the rest of the build --- it can't supply 30PSI for the whole RPM range (7.5K max), probably the next upgrade.


So, it appears the added WMI jets, one at each port, added 10 - 15 WHP and about 50 ft/lbs more torque. Gotta admit --- this thing can be SCARY!

 

Two of these WAY up!

 

Hi, mind I ask what’s the 100-200 timing for this kind of set up?

 

Sorry, I haven't a clue. I leave the programming to the tuner. Here's part of a data log I made while the above dyno chart was produced, maybe it'll have your answer. It was made with my AP connected to the OBD II connector, so the boost readings are limited by the ECU.

 

Wow that’s nice, what do you use to data log all these info?

 

AP is short for AccessPort, a device used for mapping Mini's several years ago. It can also be used for data logging, ECU reset, parameter monitor, and CEL code reading. I'm still using my custom AP tune as my Manic base tune. AP's have been discontinued for a few years, but they still show up on various "for sale" sites.

 

Thanks for the info
I just installed my Manic Stage 3 Tuned with a Built engine & Hybrid TTE300, running at map 4 with E25 & Meth. Not sure why the top end power just feels very soft, the power isn’t smooth thru out till redline. At 4th gear from 5200-5800rpm, the car will hesitated for awhile before climbing slowly up again, not sure what’s going on? Any advice?

 

I don't know the specifics of your build, so I can't offer any legitimate advice. Pretty sure this is why stage's 3 & 4 should be installed by the tuner and data logged / dyno'd in the process --- tuner should be familiar with the build details and has ready access to the problem. Tuner also has immediate access to Nick, the map originator, just in case the maps need tweaking, which is possibly the case.

The tuner I used is located 700 - 800 miles away from me, but the trip was made. A full day was spent installing the tune, multiple data log runs, and a dyno pull. Cost me two nites in a motel, some meals, gas, etc, but worth every extra $$.

 

Hi Bro, you hv a IG account so I can follow thru. I’m going to get a Gt28 upgrade after now feeling the Hybrid isn’t doing much for the upper end power.

 

All my info can be found on NAM, Motoring Alliance, or MiniTorque --- mostly here. There's a couple Mini FB groups I follow, but don't post much there.

The GTX2860R has done well for me. Be sure to get the exhaust manifold adapter. There's plenty of other custom hoses and things to get too. Then when it's all installed, talk to a Manic tuner.

Hope to see your build thread here.

 

Do you think the Gtx2860 will work with my Manic S3 now? Any boost controller that you will recommend to crank up a little more on the existing Flash? I have access to E85 & 100% Meth so fuelling shouldn’t be a problem for me.

 

Going from an OEM or hybrid turbo to a big Garrett will require a map change, regardless of the map you're currently using. Talk to your Manic tuner for details.

I've been using a TurboXS manual boost controller. Been working fine for my driving habits. Switching to an electronic controller has been recommended several times and I'll probably do it with my next upgrade, just haven't selected which one yet.

 

Hi bro, do you think I can use a manual boost controller on my Hybrid TTE300 turbo now running a Manic Stage 3 Tuned?
Im now running map 4 (the highest map) but just don’t feel the top end power there at all? Can you lead me how to install a MBC on a Hybrid? I hv a o2 wideband, a Snow VC50 boost gauge & obd DashCmd to monitor the rest. Running dual meth nozzles spraying at different boost level so fuelling shouldn’t be a problem.

Thanks in advance.

 

The big Garrett WG is activated by positive pressure. I'm guessing your hybrid is still using the OEM vacuum system for WG control. I've read that others have connected an MBC to the OEM system, but quite frankly, I don't believe it works. If you want to try one, it should be a simple connection --- just insert it in the vacuum line, probably at the diaphragm instead of the vacuum pump. And since you're working with a vacuum instead of pressure, you might need to connect the MBC backwards --- MBC outlet to the vacuum source --- I honestly don't know.

Will your map 4 allow boost over 22PSI? I strongly suggest you get better MBC info from your Manic tuner, or someone more familiar with boost controllers.