Nice. I picked up my donor engine Saturday. Hoping to build something similar to what you have done. Maybe 100hp less. Thanks for the updates and all the info you’ve contributed.

 

A truly impressive upgrading from an already incredibly impressive build. You're inspiring me to turn up the crank on Buzz a few more notches!

 

What's the hose across the valve cover (from the JMTC to a T near the boost side catch can output to the turbo intake)?
Since I started running the RPM cover, I removed all of the vacuum side PCV tubing (and the need for the secondary catch can) ... a little more space in the bay.

 

That's the external DV return line. I ran out of 1" hose so had to use two short pieces --- someday I'll make it a one piece hose, but it'll still run across the top instead of around the back. I tried mounting the DV closer to the turbo, but got random DV codes and a cel. This location works best for me.

 

This has been an awesome build to read and follow!

 

After reviewing data logs and comparing them to dyno charts, I decided to order the 1.5 Bar WG actuator. This turbo is advertised as being supplied with a 1.0 Bar actuator, so I figure that's the reason boost peaked out at 27 PSI (using my MBC). Another 0.5 Bar should get me to my target of low-to-mid 30's. So, when the new actuator arrives and I get the old one out, I discover Garrett built the turbo with a 0.5 Bar actuator! I guess even big co's screw up sometimes. Is it an error in the ad, or did the Mexican assembly process use the wrong one? I'll probably never know. I emailed the seller (an authorized Garrett distributor) and asked them to forward my email to Garrett customer service (I haven't ever received a reply from Garrett from my many inquiries). They offered to furnish a 1.0 version FOC and indicated they have had similar problems with Garrett. I declined, but asked them again to forward my "nastygram".

In the meantime, the dyno operator is still working on fixing the boost measurement. When I went for the last dyno run, I added 5 gallons of VP MS109 to about ½ gallon of 91 octane pump gas (I ran it down as low as I could safely, to get max octane for the dyno pulls). When I got home, there's 2 - 3 gallons left in the tank. Rather than add more pump gas for DD, I'm leaving it garaged and adding another 5 gallons of VP MS109. The dyno shop gave me an appt for next week, expecting to have it up and running by then. In the meantime, I'm climbing the walls and driving the spouse crazy! FYI --- the dyno shop is located about an hours drive from my home, and the route is up and thru Virginia City, NV --- a really fun, twisty, mountainous drive, but needs more than a gallon of gas in the tank to safely negotiate the steep grades and curves.

Looking at the last chart (3rd of 3), it appears the torque is peaking and HP breaks its curve where boost max's out. I'm expecting that if I can get boost to the mid 30's, both curves will increase significantly. My 1st pull (of 3) a couple weeks ago, was at 23 PSI and it produced a 443 WHP --- 20 WHP difference for about 3 PSI. Maybe another 7 - 8 PSI will get me into the 500+ WHP group. The last Garrett, GTX2860R, easily produced 35 PSI, just couldn't maintain it.

So, stay tuned for the next dyno pull. Maybe help me celebrate joining the 500 + WHP group.

 

good luck! Who else is making 500+ whp from an r56?

 

I have a link to one, and he's in or near Greece --- https://www.revlimit.gr/index.php?op...=en&Itemid=172 One other may be close to 500, but I haven't seen any dyno charts supporting his claims --- "Godzilla" based in Portugal, associated with "RPM Power Portugal". I think there's one in Italy, but I have no links to them, just what I've read on some FB groups. Also, when reading the numbers, watch for the distinction between WHP and BHP. There's about a 15% difference between them, and most non-USA charts will be in BHP, the higher of the two.

To the best of my knowledge, there's no one in the USA with an R56 at 500+ WHP, yet. Maybe an R53 or two, and the obvious bigger engine transplants, but no R56's. Maybe Jan of RMW knows of some. He's built some big number engines, but I don't know the specifics, just that he's not a fan of R56's. A guy in AZ started building one a few years ago, but it's still a work in progress. Pretty sure he gave up on big power and is concentrating on body work --- "Project SuperCooper" on FB. What kind of numbers are you producing?

 

Finally got some more dyno time --- bad news and good. First the bad --- boost numbers didn't increase much from the previous 27PSI, only got up to about 29. Good news is 520WHP. Chart is hard to read, with low-numbered boost and AFR shown with hi-numbered power and torque. Instead of synchronizing everything to the spark plug, the dyno operator chose to use wheel diameter and dyno database to calculate RPM's. As a result the chart shows max RPM as below 7K, when the driver actually used the dash gauge and quit at just below 7.5K. Then the charts were all printed with the final "tail" --- looks pretty bad. On the bright side, these numbers are awesome! And since I'm not concerned with the car's appearance, why should I worry about how the chart looks, it's the numbers the count.

As for the low boost number, I'm guessing it's still low because of the turbine housing 0.92 A/R, the long tube exhaust manifold, and only a 1.6L engine driving the turbo. The new WG actuator was able to raise the HP by about 50, but the MBC is still max'd out. 1.5 Bar at 4500' should be about 19.5 - 20 PSI, leaving the last 10 PSI to come from the MBC. Previous Garrett had a 1.0 Bar actuator and easily made 35 PSI with the same MBC, just couldn't maintain it. Maybe some day I'll learn more about how it all works and find a way to get boost up to 35 or so. Maybe start with a smoke test?

 

Probably the last upgrade for a very long time --- a set of heat range 10 spark plugs. NGK1997 R2556B-10 Racing Plug. Just finished the install, but waiting for a cool evening or early AM time to road test them. Afternoon temps are high 90's and I have no A/C anymore --- yes, I'm a wimp, old age does that to a guy. I don't expect any change in performance, just want to ensure they're gonna function throughout the performance range. Long time ago I had a bad experience with Brisk plugs, never did get them to work above 3 - 4K RPM. So far, all the NGK's I've tried have been OK.

For the amount of time I drive it max'd out, these plugs can be considered overkill. If I ever get to run at the Texas Mile, or do another dyno pull, I'll be glad they're installed.

 

Are you still using factory intake manifold? Thanks

 

Yes, but slightly modified to accept WMI jets one on each port.

Unfortunately the PCV hoses block the view.

 

Any advice you have for someone aiming for 500whp as well with the N14? I’ve read through the whole build to see the progression and mistakes made so that I don’t repeat them but is there anything else you would change looking back? I’ve already got my block back from CSS and went for the lower compression CP pistons as well since that seemed to be a headache in the past.

 

Congratulations and thank you for having the patience to read the whole thing.

Talk to your tuner about cam selection. Manic didn't like the "biggest" Cat Cam and suggested the mid-grind. Maybe your tuner will tune for a wilder cam.

Turbos have an "A/R" spec that determines where in the RPM curve max power is delivered. I chose the highest A/R number for max power at high RPM's --- for top speed runs. This sacrifices power at lower street RPM's. So, consider how you want your build to be used when selecting your big turbo, and choose the options accordingly --- study / learn turbo specs.

Light flywheel causes a loss of inertia during launch. It also improves high RPM acceleration. A big turbo will move the power curve up the RPM range (increased turbo lag). This combination results in terrible 1/4 mile starts / times, but awesome 60 - 120 MPH times. Again, how will you use your build. A possible solution to this inertia loss and turbo lag might be the addition of a supercharger --- maybe located where the A/C was? Or, add a nitrous oxide system for the low RPM range? Or just live with it and save axles.

Some builders use bigger fuel injectors. My added WMI jets could be enlarged to ensure an adequate fuel supply. Either way, you gotta be sure there's enough fuel for 500+ WHP.

How about posting your build for the rest of us. So far, I'm the only N14 in the country that's publicly claiming 500+

 

I’ve already spoken to Lou at prototype-r for the tune and he was ok with tuning for the biggest cat cams and gave me a list of additional things to buy which I’ve been acquiring slowly over the winter. I will be using an aquamist system and also got Lou’s recommendation for sizing on those with the plan to run 4 smaller ones for the intake ports and one larger one as well to be near the 1500cc/min limit of the pump. I’ll be running a Borg Warner EFR7163 in a .80 A/R with the twin scroll housing on it so I’ll be fabricating my own manifold for it, luckily I found a company that sells the exhaust flange to bolt to the head to make my life easier. So far I haven’t posted anything since I’ve just been gathering parts and with no garage I’ll need to wait for spring time to get the motor back into the car. The car was mostly stock but a seized vacuum pump caused my exhaust camshaft bolt to shear off when the cam got locked up and it dropped its timing chain while running. I was originally planning on just replacing the valves, but I’ve gotten sucked into the “while I’m in there” rabbit hole. It seems as though no company or person has bothered to touch the stock mechanical fuel pump which is a big limiting factor so I’ve started to look into what options there may be for upgrading/replacing it so that I don’t have to rely entirely on Methanol.

One thing I wasn’t sure about was approaching the issue of the intercooler plumbing since I’m sure it won’t survive 30+ psi of boost without popping off. Did you switch that all out for something custom as I don’t recall reading about that? Also does your tune still circumvent the factory MAP sensor?

 

BW EFR7163 is a good turbo --- bigger than mine, so probably more lag. My A/R is .92 and their lowest is .49 --- hopefully your .80 is a good performance trade-off. Are you going with an internal or external WG? Both will be a tight fit. I expect an "upswept" tubular manifold will allow more space for DP, just be sure the turbo oil return outlet is above the crankcase turbo oil inlet --- don't want oil to collect in the return line. But then you gotta watch for manifold / hood interference --- really tight fit. Take a look at the RPM and Scara73 versions if you haven't already. There's also KakaRakis Performance but their's isn't upswept.

My FMIC hoses were changed only to fit the new bends and sizes. There have been no problems holding 30 - 35 PSI as long as I use the "T" hose clamps. Even these need to be mounted carefully --- all surfaces flush with the hose to apply equal pressure all around. And not just snug, but tight!

Map sensors are still MCS, not JCW and the tune has over-ridden the OEM limits. Altho, the OBD max boost reading is what my AP custom tune was, which max's out about 24PSI. My actual manifold boost is monitored by an external steering column gauge. Apparently the OBD reading isn't from the sensor, but from an ECU chart. I don't know enough about tuning to understand it.

 

The EFR7163 is actually a bit smaller than your G26-660 but with identical flow and should spool quite a bit sooner as a result so no worries there. I’ve done a lot of research already and looked at the scara73 manifolds although I wasn’t aware of the others and I intended to go for something similar to create a top mount setup. I’ve built some turbo 4 cylinders before but this is my first mini build so nothing really that different and I’ve certainly done my research on it. Glad to hear you haven’t had to many problems with the intercooler piping though after switching clamps so I’ll most likely end up going down the same route unless I encounter more issues. I’ll be running an internal waste gate although with an aftermarket actuator to have better control over it while using a cortex EBC to control it. I’ve got a 3.5 bar MAP sensor that I’ve wired into my harness already based on Lou’s recommendations which surprised me since every thread I read it was thought it couldn’t be done so it seems he’s making progress with these ECUs.

 

These are the specs I was able to find. Looks to me like EFR has bigger wheels, which will cause more lag. Frame might be smaller, I didn't compare those dims, but for your sake, I hope it is.
G25-660 compressor inducer - 54mm exducer - 67mm turbine inducer - 54mm exducer - 49mm
EFR7163 compressor inducer - 57mm outer - 71mm turbine --- 58mm

If your top mount setup refers to the turbo on top, that tells me the manifold tubes will bend down from the head. That's the setup I'm using and there was no space left for a 3" DP --- A/C had to go. Really ruins summertime driving in the NV high desert.

Electronic BC was recommended to me by almost everyone I talked with. Unfortunately, I'm too cheap to invest in that upgrade, and too lazy to install one. My MBC is working fine for my needs.

My WG actuator is 1.5 bar, and even with the MBC, I have trouble reaching 30 PSI. The original actuator was 0.5 bar and was kinda useless. What's your aftermarket actuator rated at?

A 3.5 bar MAP sensor would be ideal. That option was never made available to me. Should make tuning a lot easier. Gotta get Lou to publish some of his better dyno results --- I'd like to recommend him more often.

 

Yes the wheels are a little bit bigger but with the smaller exhaust housing I was told by Lou it should spool about 500-800 rpm sooner than the G25-660 since our stock oil pumps limit how high the N14 can rev this seemed important to having a useable power band. The turbo smart IWG75 is a two port unit just like an external waste gate and has the ability to swap springs as well so they rate them as being able to go up to 40 psi. I was hoping I could keep AC, but it seems getting rid of it would free up some much needed room luckily I won’t have it as bad being up in the North East, not sure how you survive in NV without it. Even having done a lot of research for the build, Lou certainly opened my eyes to a lot of stuff I haven’t seen mentioned anywhere and seems to be a wealth of knowledge for these cars. Without an electronic boost controller how are you managing traction in the lower gears or do you just avoid them? I’m imagining with stock-ish width tires it must be a lot of spinning.

 

With my limited knowledge on turbos, I'm not gonna argue with Lou. For your sake, I hope it does spool quicker than mine.

As mentioned earlier, boost doesn't come on 'til late in the RPM range. If I keep RPM's below 4K or so, tire spin isn't a problem. Low RPM driving is pretty much like an old uhhh fogey like me would drive --- goes with the "sleeper" effect. When challenged, a quick downshift changes everything.

 

Not a complete list but should give a general idea. I had it dyno tuned over a few sessions by Extreme Motorsports in Arizona.

Garrett Gtx2867R gen ll turbo
CP 9.5 pistons
ZRP forged Rods
King bearings
Beehive Titanium Springs and Retainers
ARP Studs
IP ignition coils
Detroit tuned oil feed and return lines
NGK Iridium colder plugs
GTT catch Can
High flow exhaust manifold
ATP turbo exhaust flange
ATP catless down pipe
Alta 3” full exhaust
Turbo smart Blowoff valve
AEM intake
Wagner Competition intercooler
Custom Hot-side boost tube
JMTC custom cold side boost tube with methanol bung adapter
Methanol kit - GTT Powermist system / snow performance / AEM controller
TurboSmart eBoost2
Sneed4Speed race axels
Quaif LSD
OS Giken STR twin plate clutch
Willwood BBK
KSport asphalt rally coilovers
Megan racing rear adjustable links
NRG quick release steering wheel
CravenSpeed short shifter
P3 multi gauge
VAD wide fenders
Enkei RPF1 16x9
Toyo Proxes RA1 245/45/16

 

Nice list. A few questions ---
Car year and model, with a pic or two?
Max boost setting?
WMI mix?
Plugs heat range?
Post a dyno chart?
CSS or sleeves?
DIY or one of the AZ shops put it all together for you?
Looks like you've been a NAM member for quite awhile. Lurking and learning?
What kind of driving is it built for --- track, street sleeper, DD?
Future plans, or are you happy with it now?

Your ~2867 is slightly bigger than my original ~2860, it should provide all kinds of satisfaction for you. If you plan to stay in AZ, don't make the mistake I did with the A/C --- keep the turbo size small enough to fit without removing anything. Mines a beast to drive in summer months without A/C.

 

Been a long time lurker. Gone through a few builds. Followed most of the big builds on NAM.

First thing I definitely kept my ac lol. AZ is toooo hot!

2007 Cooper s r56 n14

I run an electronic boost control so adjustable on the fly. Anything above 28psi right now the motor pulls timing. Got some spark and fuel upgrades comin to see what I can run.

W/M I just run 100% meth

I run the NGK ILKR8E6 plugs heat range is 8

I don’t have sleeves or cylinder support system (saw your issue on the last build) been fine for the last few years knock on wood.

I do a lot of the work. Pulled the motor worked with the machine shop and put it back in. Had some help on a few things from some local shops as well as tuning. I like to wrench in my spare time so I enjoy working on it.

I daily drive it but am working on being a little more track focused.

Future plans....I’m gonna work on spark and fuel to max out the turbo. Looking at the RPM intake manifold. I think the turbo will flow 35 psi or so and would like to see what kind of power it will make at max flow. If the motor goes I am thinking about doing a k24 Honda swap lol.

Attached a dyno chart from a tuning session as well as a car pic.

 

I just realized I posted in your build thread I’m not even sure how that happened. I meant to post on a totally different thread ROFL. I’m gonna move the posts. My bad 🤦🏼‍♂️

 

Cool wheels