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ECS carries the 2 mid body braces as well as several more under body ones and strut brace. Prices aren't too bad,
except shipping is $125 (same whether you put one or several braces on the cart).
The one under the front subframe (UR-LA6-1648) looks like it would do more than the one behind it (UR-ML4-1649),
and the others (UR-LA4-1716, UR-LA4-2116, and LA2-1647) look less useful.
The UR-LA6-1648 looks closest to the TSW/WMW xbrace in form and function.
By the pics, it looks like they mount up to oem bolts and locations, which is a big plus.
More excited than i would be for christmas, exhaust came today! Ooh boy do you look pretty Nicely packed! And there it is guys! Though it may look like it there is no rust on those welds. Comes with all the hardware clamps and such
Now for some bad news...was fiddling around with the Torque pro app under the "testing feature". For ***** and giggles i looked at cyclinder misfires while driving the car. Indicated i had 2 misfires in cyclinder 2, 1 in cyclinder 1, 1 in cylinder 3, and 1 in cylinder 4. Though it was said all passed...ok? Tested next day again and said relatively same numbers except cylinder 3 had no misfires this drive. Where it says ewma misfires calculated for last 10 drives for each cylinder the numbers dont match with the amount of misfires it says i have per drive (usually 1 to 2) compared to the 10 drive average of 1 or 2. If im getting multiple every drive wouldnt the 10 drive total be higher?
Also want to note i am not getting any codes or CELs right now.
Ok so jacked up my car today to pre-plan for parts installation tomorrow. Discovered i am missing a socket deep enough for the clamp connecting downpipe to front pipe for exhaust . I will have to make due with a 16mm crescent wrench or maybe when i drive down to where my parts are I can hit an autozone for a deep socket. Stay tuned, tomorrow will be air charge pipe, air discharge pipe, exhaust, and maybe cai (still on the fence as i dont want the extra air confusing the ecu and making it run lean).
Also decided on the tron led tail light for the clubman from my man Aaron from Outmotoring which i will order in october from my next bonus. Also found a forum member who will be sending me (im paying obviously) his own designed front splitter and it'll be under half the cost of other big names. After studying Sneed's and M7s install sheets i think the hardware needed can all be found at Home Depot plus some stanchions from Amazon, shouldnt be more than maybe $50.
Actually, ECS now lists over a dozen
braces for the R55 including 4 front
braces, 3 mid braces, 2 rear braces,
2 tower braces, 2 rear in-the-cabin
braces, as well as a 19mm rear and
25 mm front sway bar. A few look
useful and the rest are probably all
overkill and unnecessary.
Actually, ECS now lists over a dozen
braces for the R55 including 4 front
braces, 3 mid braces, 2 rear braces,
2 tower braces, 2 rear in-the-cabin
braces, as well as a 19mm rear and
25 mm front sway bar. A few look
useful and the rest are probably all
overkill and unnecessary.
Yep, I was looking at the 2 midbody braces, front underbody brace, strut tower brace, and the 2 inside cabin braces for my Clubby. Ahh the joy of finding new parts to buy when you think you are "done"
No instructions or hardware were included, just the bar. It was a tight fit getting the bar in, but it’s in. I bought it off eBay, at a total cost of about $150.
I don't see where it bolts up to. Looks clean as heck though. White is one of my favorite colors when paired with a nice dark color either purple or black. Looks great man!
I don't see where it bolts up to. Looks clean as heck though. White is one of my favorite colors when paired with a nice dark color either purple or black. Looks great man!
It bolts down between the rear seat bracket and the bulkhead. Only modification for installation was to trim the carpet where it interfered with the bar.
NM CAI installed, some tips for you guys. For one time hose clamps find the 3 little nib things at the end, use flat head to lift up the end and use pliers to pry it up, clamp will come undone easy for say the pcv vent and breather hoses. Second note, very tight fit and i would recommend actually installing the turbo pipe into the silicone turbo intake first then fitting the silicone turbo intake on instead of vice versa. And yes for eagle eyed observers I opted for the Dry version of the filter.
Next note, f*** the stock exhaust on clubbies. No freakin leverage to get those sucker rubber exhaust hangers off. Screw MINI for adding lip edges on the muffler hanger metal things. Absolutely PLEASE use WD40, i had the next step up which is their Lithium Grease.
Also, gratuitous installation ****... Middle finger to you sir
Nice! I probably would have cut the stock exhaust to get it off easier than in one piece. Thoughts on the NM intake?
Just took it for a test around the neighborhood, wow people werent kidding when they said you definitely hear the sucking sound. Very addictive.
One major thing i noticed from a pull or 2 in the neighborhood, my idle fuel rail pressure went from around 750 consistent to ranging from 630-740s for some weird reason, also AFR during 50% throttle from 1k-3kish stays around 14 only going lower on more throttle. I suspect because a lot more air is being thrown into the turbo and the ECU hasnt adjusted yet which is why im seeing slightly higher afr.
Obligatory installation ****... Fat tips Need to do a bit of fine tuning on fitment but damn the Milltek system looks sharp!
Pop and burbles from exhaust have much deeper tone, exhaust tone is about 30% deeper and that is with stock cat. Low frequency drone from idle to 2k rpm. Some observations, lots of wd40 needed to get the V Band Clamp off. There is a small gasket with little metal square edges that attach to the downpipe, **** is thin and i initially forgot to reinstall it, what a p.i.t.a. With this being the first time installing parts of this nature, took me about 4 hours for CAI and about 5 for the exhaust. Thats having no specialized tools which im sure would save you time.
Too bad - as I understand it from speaking to Way, the only difference between them is that the R56/R55 version has an added kink to clear the exhaust....
Here's another possible option from an eBay seller. It isn't listed at the moment, but I'm pretty sure he would build one or more if there is demand. It's my car in the picture - I helped him develop it. It works with seats lowered or up.
It's on the wish list, i think next mod I tackle after the tune will be the custom splitter in the front from a forum member. Also I shamelessly placed my stock exhaust up for sale on the forums
The used air charge and discharge pipes i got have a decent amount of oil residue left inside, would like to clean it out before i attach. Thinking simple soap and water on the silicon and metal parts? Anyone else suggest anything better?
So many setbacks today, i gave up after a while. First problem I ran into was that the air charge pipe going into the throttle body area was somehow superfused to the plastics. Spent an hour with 2 flathead trying to pry those suckers off, to no avail. 2nd problem which was the most disheartening, i followed every step to remove the front bumper and then..nope something still attached. It seems the air ducts from bumper to front of brakes is locked together by screw so i couldnt remove the bumper. I was crunched for time and didnt know what to do next as im not mechanically inclined on cars. Also found out while driving i got a P00BD code because i forgot to tighten the clamp driver side of intercooler pipe. A little oily around the clamp now.. but tightened it up once i got to work. What a wasted day
To answer my own question after cleaning tubes for some hours the night before at 2am: dawn + hot water + microfiber cloth + elbow grease = like new silicone tubes.
ECS carries the 2 mid body braces as well as several more under body ones and strut brace. Prices aren't too bad,
except shipping is $125 (same whether you put one or several braces on the cart).
The one under the front subframe (UR-LA6-1648) looks like it would do more than the one behind it (UR-ML4-1649),
and the others (UR-LA4-1716, UR-LA4-2116, and LA2-1647) look less useful.
The UR-LA6-1648 looks closest to the TSW/WMW xbrace in form and function.
By the pics, it looks like they mount up to oem bolts and locations, which is a big plus.
The laws of the universe dictate that this order will result in the TSW XBrace becoming available again soon.
At least it looks like they will fit and function much better than the Wiechers Sport lower brace, which I ordered a couple months ago and promptly returned.
Have an appointment with Mario next Wednesday for the tune and some installation work. Just got the FCM Bumpstops as the last piece to my suspension build, really excited.
The next issue im sort of tackling at the moment is the small exhaust leak i have. 90% sure the Milltek front pipe flange end doesnt fit right with the stock clamp and stock downpipe. Before anyone links those 2 other threads covering this topic, yes already read them. I think personally my clamp is messed up. My question is this, should i buy another stock exhaust clamp as it states 67.5mm size which is 2.65inch when my aftermarket WMW downpipe flange is 3 inches OD? Also fairly certain the flange on the Milltek is too thick for regular v band clamps, link to exact pipe here for the Milltek pipe. Included is some part ****.
The factory downpipe uses a gasket at that joint. Did you reuse the one from your stock system? If not, I would get a new one and put it in there.
Yeah i re used the old gasket for the current installation. Thought the gasket was completely seperated and i had to fix the metal teeth to get it to sit on properly. I know the factor clamp had that gasket attached to itself originally so. Debating whether i should go with a Vibrant V Band in say 3 inch size, thoughts?
Well the car is in Mario's hands right now being worked on. Tonight or most likely tomorrow it will be done. Teared up a bit seeing my baby all taken apart. Atleast the downpipe and new turbo are installed now!
In my rush to get it over I forgot the friggin JCW Manifold!! However, i learned last night the N18s use a different manifold than the N14 and the JCW, i didnt know this when i bought the JCW manifold from Way. Summary thought being, JCW manifold will give maybe quicker spool but more top end power. I doubt i will ever really push it to 6k rpm as dd or canyon runner so i have no need now. My loss your gain, will be posting my unused manifold in the classifieds. The n18s manifold is apparently the lightest and has more flow so
. I will have to make due with a 16mm crescent wrench or maybe when i drive down to where my parts are I can hit an autozone for a deep socket. Stay tuned, tomorrow will be air charge pipe, air discharge pipe, exhaust, and maybe cai (still on the fence as i dont want the extra air confusing the ecu and making it run lean).
