Interior/Exterior Carbon Fiber rear and bonnet?
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
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Carbon Fiber rear and bonnet?
I did a search but the program would not load the findings so I noticed on Ebay VIS parts and wondered what the savings were and if theses are any good or suggestions for other vendors..... just thinking about things to wish for
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6th Gear
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I wonder about noise and UV damage...... I just saw a CF hood on a Honda and it was very UV damaged????
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 8
From: Norfolk, VA
The wax would only do so much, and wouldn't really be effective unless the carbon fiber part already has some UV protection to start with.
Carbon fiber parts are all over the map, construction-wise. Some are simply CF cloth with just enough resin to hold the shape. These are usually non-structural parts where weight savings is paramount, like covers, panels, etcetera. Visually, they may have "dry" spots and/or pits in the resin.
Other parts will use only cloth and resin, but they'll use enough resin that the finish is a little glossier and there are fewer pits in the resin. These parts are stronger and look better, but the resin has essentially no UV protection. Over time, the finish will dull, turn chalky, or even turn greenish-grey. At this point, the only thing you can do is wet-sand and apply a proper clearcoat.
Lastly, there are parts that have cloth and lots of resin, but also have an automotive clearcoat applied over them. These parts are beautiful, free of pits and dry spots, and will stay looking good the longest. They're also the most expensive to produce, slightly heavier because of the extra resin and clearcoat, and they're not any stronger because of the clearcoat.
Unless you're obsessing over every gram and don't care about the cosmetics, I would strongly recommend getting clearcoated parts just because they look good longer and require less upkeep.
Scott
Carbon fiber parts are all over the map, construction-wise. Some are simply CF cloth with just enough resin to hold the shape. These are usually non-structural parts where weight savings is paramount, like covers, panels, etcetera. Visually, they may have "dry" spots and/or pits in the resin.
Other parts will use only cloth and resin, but they'll use enough resin that the finish is a little glossier and there are fewer pits in the resin. These parts are stronger and look better, but the resin has essentially no UV protection. Over time, the finish will dull, turn chalky, or even turn greenish-grey. At this point, the only thing you can do is wet-sand and apply a proper clearcoat.
Lastly, there are parts that have cloth and lots of resin, but also have an automotive clearcoat applied over them. These parts are beautiful, free of pits and dry spots, and will stay looking good the longest. They're also the most expensive to produce, slightly heavier because of the extra resin and clearcoat, and they're not any stronger because of the clearcoat.
Unless you're obsessing over every gram and don't care about the cosmetics, I would strongly recommend getting clearcoated parts just because they look good longer and require less upkeep.
Scott
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,149
Likes: 0
The wax would only do so much, and wouldn't really be effective unless the carbon fiber part already has some UV protection to start with.
Carbon fiber parts are all over the map, construction-wise. Some are simply CF cloth with just enough resin to hold the shape. These are usually non-structural parts where weight savings is paramount, like covers, panels, etcetera. Visually, they may have "dry" spots and/or pits in the resin.
Other parts will use only cloth and resin, but they'll use enough resin that the finish is a little glossier and there are fewer pits in the resin. These parts are stronger and look better, but the resin has essentially no UV protection. Over time, the finish will dull, turn chalky, or even turn greenish-grey. At this point, the only thing you can do is wet-sand and apply a proper clearcoat.
Lastly, there are parts that have cloth and lots of resin, but also have an automotive clearcoat applied over them. These parts are beautiful, free of pits and dry spots, and will stay looking good the longest. They're also the most expensive to produce, slightly heavier because of the extra resin and clearcoat, and they're not any stronger because of the clearcoat.
Unless you're obsessing over every gram and don't care about the cosmetics, I would strongly recommend getting clearcoated parts just because they look good longer and require less upkeep.
Scott
Carbon fiber parts are all over the map, construction-wise. Some are simply CF cloth with just enough resin to hold the shape. These are usually non-structural parts where weight savings is paramount, like covers, panels, etcetera. Visually, they may have "dry" spots and/or pits in the resin.
Other parts will use only cloth and resin, but they'll use enough resin that the finish is a little glossier and there are fewer pits in the resin. These parts are stronger and look better, but the resin has essentially no UV protection. Over time, the finish will dull, turn chalky, or even turn greenish-grey. At this point, the only thing you can do is wet-sand and apply a proper clearcoat.
Lastly, there are parts that have cloth and lots of resin, but also have an automotive clearcoat applied over them. These parts are beautiful, free of pits and dry spots, and will stay looking good the longest. They're also the most expensive to produce, slightly heavier because of the extra resin and clearcoat, and they're not any stronger because of the clearcoat.
Unless you're obsessing over every gram and don't care about the cosmetics, I would strongly recommend getting clearcoated parts just because they look good longer and require less upkeep.
Scott
5th Gear
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From: Las Vegas
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OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 8
From: Norfolk, VA
You're welcome - unfortunately, there's no good way to tell the difference unless you have the parts in hand. I bought some CF door cup inserts on eBay that *appeared* to be clearcoated, but when I got them, they look like it's just resin. There aren't any pits, but it's not as glossy "in person" as the picture the seller used on eBay. A little clearcoat before I install them should do the trick.
I have a bunch of the JCW carbon fiber parts, and they're interesting in that they are actually ABS plastic (just like the stock parts), with carbon fiber on top of the plastic. They have a deep automotive clearcoat and are stunningly beautiful, with a high gloss and no pits whatsoever, but they're actually a little heavier than the stock parts. So, the JCW parts don't save you any weight and should really be considered cosmetic parts only, but man are they gorgeous!
Scott
I have a bunch of the JCW carbon fiber parts, and they're interesting in that they are actually ABS plastic (just like the stock parts), with carbon fiber on top of the plastic. They have a deep automotive clearcoat and are stunningly beautiful, with a high gloss and no pits whatsoever, but they're actually a little heavier than the stock parts. So, the JCW parts don't save you any weight and should really be considered cosmetic parts only, but man are they gorgeous!
Scott
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 8
From: Norfolk, VA
Good point - I said that wet-sanding and clearcoating dull CF was the only solution, but I neglected to mention paint as an option.
Scott
Scott
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 980
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From: Downtown Denver
Someone put the VIS hood on and posted some shots here. . . don't know who it was. . .
But anyway, they painted it blue, like the rest of their MINI, and taped off stripes to remain CF. . pretty sweet. A search would pull it up after a bit of looking.
As far as the CF Boot goes, that's the last place I would want to lose weight. Our cars already have over a 60/40 front/back weight split. It would be nuts to remove anymore weight from the already light rear.
Good luck-
-Steve
But anyway, they painted it blue, like the rest of their MINI, and taped off stripes to remain CF. . pretty sweet. A search would pull it up after a bit of looking.
As far as the CF Boot goes, that's the last place I would want to lose weight. Our cars already have over a 60/40 front/back weight split. It would be nuts to remove anymore weight from the already light rear.
Good luck-
-Steve
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6th Gear
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I got an email from the seller on Ebay and he said that swapping both saves 25 lb. not enough for me to want to fool with..... I was interested more for weight than looks.... but I do like the way it looks
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,926
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From: Greensboro, NC
Dang...looks like he's got my louvers ready to go...
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