I took my MINI in for service, and stopped by R-Speed on the way back out of Atlanta and picked up a swaybar!

I installed it earlier this evening, and it seems to have a pretty big impact on handling. I don't get the opportunity to do much autocross, but I do live in a mountainous area with lots of twisty roads.

The bar is 22mm in diameter, and I set the endlinks in the hole toward the ends of the bar (softest setting). I noticed a difference even on gentle curves at low speed. I have always thought that the MINI had too much lean during sustained cornering (for lack of a better term), but not nearly as much as before.

I went on a short test ride after the install, and noticed more and quicker response to steering inputs and quite a bit less lean. The car seems to have much better grip on curves, and on one particular decreasing radius curve it makes the car seem much more planted and confident. The improvements are apparent on these roads even at sedate velocities.

Here are some notes from the install process. Maybe they'll be helpful to anyone about to swap sway bars.

1. Everyone tells you to remove a spring/strut on the rear, and everyone also tells you to remove 4 bolts that hold the subframe to the car. Everyone also warns you about the wire bundle making the removal of the old bar somewhat tricky. Here's what they don't tell you... Loosen the bolts holding the fuel tank straps. Don't remove them, just back them out until just a few threads are holding the straps. As you reach the point where the infamous wire bundle is a problem, gently pry the tank down about 1/2" and reach in flip the bar around the bundle.

2. The new bar goes in a LOT easier than the old one comes out.

3. Make sure to disconnect the little arm on the module that senses the level of the rear end for the Xenon headlight levelers. It looks pretty fragile.

4. A good quality 5mm Allen Wrench and a 16mm GearWrench are your friends when you're working with the endlinks. An O-Ratchet doesn't work too well here.

5. This may only apply to the R-Speed bar... R-Speed's swaybar may be forged, but the forging doesn't give it that gold/black textured appearance, powder paint does. (I know this because we use the same type powder paint at work occasionally). Before you stick the bar under the car, test fit the endlinks through the holes. I had to roll up some sandpaper and sand out the paint before I could get the endlinks in the hole. Learn from my mistake and don't waste 30 minutes in an uncomfortable position sanding paint out of those holes.

I'm going on a long drive through the mountains tomorrow, so I'll probably have more to say then.

Rawhyde

 

Rawhyde, nice tips. You "S" guys have it alot harder when it comes to installing a new rear bar. You might want to post over in the Suspension Mods forum, too.

 

Thanks for the new tips! I'll be sure to keep them in mind when I install my new Dinan bar (hopefully next weekend).

 

Its easier to install in the MC?!?!?!?! YESSSSSS. I want one even more.

 

It can get easier????


I never had to touch the tank but did remove both shocks to give some more working room. Both S's I've done this on nethier had the bindle of wire. Glad to hear it went smoothly though. It seems like oyu're pretty happy with it.

 

I just got back home! Next month, the Scenic City MINIs are hosting the AtlantaMINIs for a Fall Foliage Tour/Run through the Mountains so we did a "pre-run" to establish the mileage and time for the route.

The increased grip and stability in corners is a big improvement over stock. Thus far there have been no adverse effects, just less lean and better turn-in. This is the way the factory should have done it! If you're considering adding an aftermarket rear swaybar, just do it! Well worth the money and not difficult to do.

In other posts about technical issues, I always preach about the benefits of Anti-Seize. I have to give credit where it is due...MINI used Anti-Seize on the swaybar bushing bolts and the rear subframe bolts. I was pleasantly surprised!

Rawhyde

 

Too much rear swaybar can be an issue. There are a couple of stories from a while back of people installing a new rear swaybar, heading out for a test drive, and promptly spinning the car and causing some damage.

 

Yes, since we don't have the wire harness the "S" folks have because of their battery placement we only have to disconnect one shock tower to get the old bar out and the new one in. It took me 2 hours to do mine from start to finish, and that was because I was being so cautious. I would say 1 hour is a reasonable install time on an MC.

 

I also installed a rear sway bar. To me there is a noticeable difference in the handling. Add the sway with a pulley urgrade and you have taken the S from a pussycat to a beast. The sway bar provides stability for the added horsepower- feels so much more secure in the back end of the car ..

For me - if the pulley upgrade is installed, the sway should be part of it

 

I found that, if I put the R-speed bar at its softest setting, and played with the front/rear tire pressures a bit, I got the car pretty neutral (at least for my tastes, and level of skill). Too stiff, and the rear end will get light quickly if you can't keep the power on.

 

Last week I put on Konis FSD's and my RSpeed 22mm sway on my 2005 MCS, and installng the Swaybar was a breeze. Of course, I did take out the struts, but the rear struts require you to remove two bolts which are accessible from the side of the car once the wheel is removed, and the big honking bolt that holds it to the subframe. Once these 3 are removed the strut is free.

The improvement in traction due to flatter cornering is substantial. Even tires that aren't all that sticky compared to stickier tires become substantially improved with the sway bar.

For comparison, I had the same swaybar on my 2003 MC, and the install wasn't any more difficult on either the MC or MCS.

Just remove the struts, remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe up, and you can pull out the old bar and feed in the new. Use a jack to lift one side of the subframe up--put the bolts back in, and repeat for the other side.

I have it on the middle setting. I had it on the softest when it was on the Cooper. I just autocrossed the MINI yesterday on that middle setting and it handled wonderfully.

Richard