Suspension Any MC owners install springs & sway bar?
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,733
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From: Bridgewater, NJ
I'm looking to install an adjustable rear anti sway bar and H&R stage 2 springs - just curious if any other MC owners have done one or the other, and what their impressions are...I know plenty of MCS owners have done it, wondering how it affects the MC.
TIA,
Dan
TIA,
Dan
>>Hi Dan,
>>
>>Our Cooper testmule has the H&R's on it. If you are in the area stop by the shop and you can take it out for a spin.
Dan,
I drove the Helix Cooper while my S was getting springs and swaybar done @ Helix and I can vouch that the setup is nice. The car handles great and it makes the car look sharp.
>>
>>Our Cooper testmule has the H&R's on it. If you are in the area stop by the shop and you can take it out for a spin.
Dan,
I drove the Helix Cooper while my S was getting springs and swaybar done @ Helix and I can vouch that the setup is nice. The car handles great and it makes the car look sharp.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, NJ
Morales,
Thanks for the info. Are they running 16 or 17's on their Cooper? Saw it when I was down there in December, can't remember now. One thing I'm afraid of as well is preferring the Helix exhaust to my Rogue...ha!
How do you like the handling on your MCS now?
Thanks for the info. Are they running 16 or 17's on their Cooper? Saw it when I was down there in December, can't remember now. One thing I'm afraid of as well is preferring the Helix exhaust to my Rogue...ha!
How do you like the handling on your MCS now?
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Hey Dan,
I have the madness swaybar , but unfortunately can not fit the springs as my 17" rims have tires that are 215/45-17, which would cause rubbing.
The swaybar during regular driving ...imho simply makes the car feel "tighter".
I finally had the chance to experiment a bit with it...when u get on the car in a nice turn.... you can throw out the back wheels...then...bring em back on track....
It's truly fun... :smile:
Peace,
D
_________________
2002 MCS:PS/B, w/Lapis Int.
I have the madness swaybar , but unfortunately can not fit the springs as my 17" rims have tires that are 215/45-17, which would cause rubbing.
The swaybar during regular driving ...imho simply makes the car feel "tighter".
I finally had the chance to experiment a bit with it...when u get on the car in a nice turn.... you can throw out the back wheels...then...bring em back on track....
It's truly fun... :smile:
Peace,
D
_________________
2002 MCS:PS/B, w/Lapis Int.
4th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
From: Stuttgart Germany
I just finished my spring install yesterday. I put Cooper S springs from Morales' car on to mine to upgrade my stock suspension to SS+. I followed RandyBMC directions as quoted below with a few changes and hints/tricks.
Randy good post, but I had some trouble with the removal of the front strut. This procedure took me 3 hours but 45 mins was wrestling with the front strut before I removed the lower ball joint nut, and 30 mins using the tap and die on the rear shock bolt. I have done a dozen shock/spring installs on Miatas so I have a basic knowledge of struts and springs- the lossening of the upper strut bolt I carried over from the San Diego Miata Clubs instructions from Miata.net
Fronts Removal of struts
Before step 1 remove the center cap from the top of the strut and loosen but do NOT remove the center nut. As for the tool I used a 13/16ths spark plug socket, the nut is 20mm but after the strut is out you need to hold the strut top with an allen key see below.
Step 1 Same
Step 2 Same
Step 3 Same In addition, I had to remove two bolts, one is behind the strut by the brake line and the other is at the bottom of the spindle where the lower control arm and spindle connect (lower ball joint?). The strut length may be shorter on a MCS.
Step 3a remove the spindle from the lower control arm then continue on to step 4
Step 4 Same
Step 5 Same
Fronts Removal of spring from strut
Step 1 Same
Step 2 Completed before step one of strut removal
Step 3 Same Tip- the top strut bolt is the same set up as the sway bar drop (end) link in that you have to hold the strut bolt with an allen wrench while you remove the nut. By lossening the nut before you remove the strut, you do not have to hold the strut nut with an allen wrench (when the strut is on the car) and can get more leverage with a socket . After the strut is out and on the spring compressor you do have to hold the strut so I used a 13/16ths spark plug wrench (it has flat sides to hold it with a standard wrench) while I held the bolt with an allen wrench.
Step 4 Same
Step 5 Same
Step 6 Same
Rear Strut Removal
Same
Reap Spring Removal
Same
Anyone in the Tidewater Va area that needs help please PM me and I will help. I would like to take pictures while I do an install and have them available to the MCO community. I do all my car fixin' on base at the autohobby shop.
Randy does this make sense to you? I am not a professional mechanic, I just play one on the internet.
_________________
<IMG SRC="http://www.teambodega.com/autoxgalle....jpg"> MC IB/W Sport, Premium, SSR Comps
If you can't go fast with 90 hp 900 won't help you!
I put the H&R springs on this evening. Very noticable difference in roll - much flatter. The stiffness seems about the same as stock - maybe just a tad firmer, but only under compression (cornering) which makes sense considering they are progressive rate springs.
The install was straight forward, though if you aren't familiar with spring compressors, I would recommend taking it to someone who is (that would be me in the Denver area ).
Things I noticed:
The driver side front strut is the hardest to remove - it's slightly longer than the passenger side.
The top of the strut on the front is somewhat difficult to tighten - it's recessed and requires an allen to keep the strut itself from turning while you tighten the top strut nut - requires some innovative tool usage.
More negative rear camber.
How to do the install:
Remove the front strut
1. remove the swaybar droplink from the strut
2. remove the brakeline and ABS sensor from the strut
3. completely remove the lower strut bolt from the hub carrier
4. push the bottom of the hub carrier down until you can remove the front strut
5. remove the three top strut bolts
Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the old spring
2. remove the top strut nut cover
3. remove the top strut nut
4. slide off the old spring
5. compress the new spring and reverse the order to complete the process
6. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring before tightening the strut nut
Replace the front strut
1. reverse the order used to remove
Remove rear strut
1. remove brake lines and ABS sensor
2. remove lower strut bolt
3. remove top strut plate bolts from underneath
4. slide out strut from underneath
Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the stock spring
2. remove the strut nut on the top (much easier than the front to work with)
3. compress the H&R and install
4. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring
5. replace the strut nut
Replace the rear strut
1. Reverse the order used to remove
2. you may need to jack the strut to raise it to the bolt mount
You now have H&R springs on your car!
Note for 2minis: jackstands were used during all portions of this modification
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
The install was straight forward, though if you aren't familiar with spring compressors, I would recommend taking it to someone who is (that would be me in the Denver area ).
Things I noticed:
The driver side front strut is the hardest to remove - it's slightly longer than the passenger side.
The top of the strut on the front is somewhat difficult to tighten - it's recessed and requires an allen to keep the strut itself from turning while you tighten the top strut nut - requires some innovative tool usage.
More negative rear camber.
How to do the install:
Remove the front strut
1. remove the swaybar droplink from the strut
2. remove the brakeline and ABS sensor from the strut
3. completely remove the lower strut bolt from the hub carrier
4. push the bottom of the hub carrier down until you can remove the front strut
5. remove the three top strut bolts
Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the old spring
2. remove the top strut nut cover
3. remove the top strut nut
4. slide off the old spring
5. compress the new spring and reverse the order to complete the process
6. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring before tightening the strut nut
Replace the front strut
1. reverse the order used to remove
Remove rear strut
1. remove brake lines and ABS sensor
2. remove lower strut bolt
3. remove top strut plate bolts from underneath
4. slide out strut from underneath
Remove the stock spring and replace with H&R
1. compress the stock spring
2. remove the strut nut on the top (much easier than the front to work with)
3. compress the H&R and install
4. be sure to align the rubber stops with the spring
5. replace the strut nut
Replace the rear strut
1. Reverse the order used to remove
2. you may need to jack the strut to raise it to the bolt mount
You now have H&R springs on your car!
Note for 2minis: jackstands were used during all portions of this modification
Randy
randy@mini-motorsport.com
Fronts Removal of struts
Before step 1 remove the center cap from the top of the strut and loosen but do NOT remove the center nut. As for the tool I used a 13/16ths spark plug socket, the nut is 20mm but after the strut is out you need to hold the strut top with an allen key see below.
Step 1 Same
Step 2 Same
Step 3 Same In addition, I had to remove two bolts, one is behind the strut by the brake line and the other is at the bottom of the spindle where the lower control arm and spindle connect (lower ball joint?). The strut length may be shorter on a MCS.
Step 3a remove the spindle from the lower control arm then continue on to step 4
Step 4 Same
Step 5 Same
Fronts Removal of spring from strut
Step 1 Same
Step 2 Completed before step one of strut removal
Step 3 Same Tip- the top strut bolt is the same set up as the sway bar drop (end) link in that you have to hold the strut bolt with an allen wrench while you remove the nut. By lossening the nut before you remove the strut, you do not have to hold the strut nut with an allen wrench (when the strut is on the car) and can get more leverage with a socket . After the strut is out and on the spring compressor you do have to hold the strut so I used a 13/16ths spark plug wrench (it has flat sides to hold it with a standard wrench) while I held the bolt with an allen wrench.
Step 4 Same
Step 5 Same
Step 6 Same
Rear Strut Removal
Same
Reap Spring Removal
Same
Anyone in the Tidewater Va area that needs help please PM me and I will help. I would like to take pictures while I do an install and have them available to the MCO community. I do all my car fixin' on base at the autohobby shop.
Randy does this make sense to you? I am not a professional mechanic, I just play one on the internet.
_________________
<IMG SRC="http://www.teambodega.com/autoxgalle....jpg"> MC IB/W Sport, Premium, SSR Comps
If you can't go fast with 90 hp 900 won't help you!
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, NJ
D-
I was thinking of going to 17" wheels and a fatter tire, the possibility of rubbing does concern me. Then again I keep hearing that the 16"s give a little better ride... I may just get 205/50/16 set of nice tires for my wheels. Thanks for your input, I have the standard suspension in my MC, but after hearing everyone discussing suspension and other mods, I am really considering doing it.
-Dan
I was thinking of going to 17" wheels and a fatter tire, the possibility of rubbing does concern me. Then again I keep hearing that the 16"s give a little better ride... I may just get 205/50/16 set of nice tires for my wheels. Thanks for your input, I have the standard suspension in my MC, but after hearing everyone discussing suspension and other mods, I am really considering doing it.
-Dan
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Phila, PA
>>
>>Thanks for the info. Are they running 16 or 17's on their Cooper? Saw it when I was down there in December, can't remember now. One thing I'm afraid of as well is preferring the Helix exhaust to my Rogue...ha!
Hi Dan, It took me a day but here is your answer. Yes, We have 17's on our cooper, In fact they are the S lites from our MCS. We have not had any problems with rubbing with the springs with this stock rim/tire setup.
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,733
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From: Bridgewater, NJ
Thanks Chris...while I'm tempted to get a set of the OZ Superleggerras in 17's (which is what I was thinking) I'm sure I can live with my stock R83's in 16's and put some nice sticky tires on them once the ice age ends around here. I know I would save unsprung weight going to the OZ wheels though...how big a difference would this make?
>>Thanks Chris...while I'm tempted to get a set of the OZ Superleggerras in 17's (which is what I was thinking) I'm sure I can live with my stock R83's in 16's and put some nice sticky tires on them once the ice age ends around here. I know I would save unsprung weight going to the OZ wheels though...how big a difference would this make?
Dan,
As Chris stated, the Helix MC has the 17" Lites. I did not notice any rubbing with this setup on their car.
I don't have the Superlegarras on my car, but I do have the OZ F1 wheels with runflats. I do experience a slight rub in the driver's side rear tire when driving over rough surfaces and the car is heavy (2 adults or 3 children in the rear)
. Other than this, the car handles extremely well.
Dan,
As Chris stated, the Helix MC has the 17" Lites. I did not notice any rubbing with this setup on their car.
I don't have the Superlegarras on my car, but I do have the OZ F1 wheels with runflats. I do experience a slight rub in the driver's side rear tire when driving over rough surfaces and the car is heavy (2 adults or 3 children in the rear)
. Other than this, the car handles extremely well.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,796
Likes: 0
From: New York
Morales, where did you get the front and rear sway bar install done? I know I live by you and I am looking to have it done! Also if you dont mind me asking how much did they charge. Oh and did you get the bars from them, or did you order them online and bring them in?
>>Morales, where did you get the front and rear sway bar install done? I know I live by you and I am looking to have it done! Also if you dont mind me asking how much did they charge. Oh and did you get the bars from them, or did you order them online and bring them in?
I got my work done down at Helix in Philly. I ordered the H&R springs and the RDR swaybar from Helix. The RDR bar is more expensive than Randy's bar, but when I factored in the shipping, the price became much more reasonable. The RDR bar also has 3 adjustment points as opposed to the 2 on Randy's.
The total labor for the springs and swaybar came to 3 hours if I remember correctly.
The guys at Helix are knowledgeable and very personable and their hourly rate is extremely reasonable.
I highly recommend them.
I got my work done down at Helix in Philly. I ordered the H&R springs and the RDR swaybar from Helix. The RDR bar is more expensive than Randy's bar, but when I factored in the shipping, the price became much more reasonable. The RDR bar also has 3 adjustment points as opposed to the 2 on Randy's.
The total labor for the springs and swaybar came to 3 hours if I remember correctly.
The guys at Helix are knowledgeable and very personable and their hourly rate is extremely reasonable.
I highly recommend them.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,733
Likes: 0
From: Bridgewater, NJ
Morales,
Do you have the control arms or sway bar? BTW, what other mods have you done? I know you have the Magnaflow...us MC owners need to live vicariously through the MCS guys
Do you have the control arms or sway bar? BTW, what other mods have you done? I know you have the Magnaflow...us MC owners need to live vicariously through the MCS guys
>>Morales,
>>
>>Do you have the control arms or sway bar? BTW, what other mods have you done? I know you have the Magnaflow...us MC owners need to live vicariously through the MCS guys
>>
>>Do you have the control arms or sway bar? BTW, what other mods have you done? I know you have the Magnaflow...us MC owners need to live vicariously through the MCS guys
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,253
Likes: 0
From: NY NY
I made a set of adjustable control arms for my own car, but didn't see a need to go into production, since the bars Helix has are so similar and well made and priced right.
Having had the set on my car for a while, they work fine, however, the locknut on the upper bar at the inside is a ***** to get at. The difficulty of access makes the trackside adjustment a bit unpleasant.
Having had the set on my car for a while, they work fine, however, the locknut on the upper bar at the inside is a ***** to get at. The difficulty of access makes the trackside adjustment a bit unpleasant.
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