Toyo Proxes 4 vs Eagle F1 GS-D3
Toyo Proxes 4 vs Eagle F1 GS-D3
In the world of high performance tires, those are the two available in my area from the tire dealers I trust. (Other dealers have bad reps for damaging rims or balancing by feel; i.e., if the customer doesn't feel the wobble it must be okay.)
I'm looking at $125 each 205/50VR16 for the Toyo or $150 each /50ZR16 for the Goodyear. Which to go with..?
Pete
I'm looking at $125 each 205/50VR16 for the Toyo or $150 each /50ZR16 for the Goodyear. Which to go with..?
Pete
I've got the Goodyears. Fantastic tires in both wet and dry conditions. Much more comfortable than the runflat, quieter and a better performer to boot.
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Okay, Goodyear it is. My local dealer will match Tire Rack (if shipping is included). He's saying the TPMS sensors on the valve stems have to be reinitialized. I don't think that was done when my snow tires were installed on my holies, but he sounds like he knows what it's all about.
Thanks. Pete
Thanks. Pete
The Goodyears will be F.A.R. better in heavy rain conditions then the Toyos - almost unstoppable. They will last longer and are quiter, too.
I had the GY's on 2 other cars before getting a set from Alex (TireRack) for my '06 MCS just this month. They make the Dunlop runflats just look stupid in comparison - more grip, MUCH more predictable, less affected by mid-corner undulations, quiter and ride better.
Their only weakness relative to the other top Max Performance tires is they don't have the most instantaneous steering response. -BUT- that is relative to the best there is, in the most competitive class of tires there is. And the MINI turns in so well already that I don't consider this a real issue.
.
I had the GY's on 2 other cars before getting a set from Alex (TireRack) for my '06 MCS just this month. They make the Dunlop runflats just look stupid in comparison - more grip, MUCH more predictable, less affected by mid-corner undulations, quiter and ride better.
Their only weakness relative to the other top Max Performance tires is they don't have the most instantaneous steering response. -BUT- that is relative to the best there is, in the most competitive class of tires there is. And the MINI turns in so well already that I don't consider this a real issue.
.
Hey Pete!
You made the right choice with the Goodyears. I ran those last summer on the street, autocrossing, and on the track. They just barely lasted one summer, but that was mainly due to the track abuse.
Great tires and a good price. Too bad they look so obnoxious. :D
As kenchan said, the "reset the TPMS" line is bogus. The tire pressure light on the dash is run off the ABS (wheelspeed) sensors so there is nothing for the tire folks to mess with. You may have to reset the dash light yourself, but that's easy. Turn the key one click, hold down the button under the handbrake lever until the dash light lights up solid and stays that way, start the car, drive for a few feet and the light goes out. Do not pay extra for any TPMS stuff.
You made the right choice with the Goodyears. I ran those last summer on the street, autocrossing, and on the track. They just barely lasted one summer, but that was mainly due to the track abuse.
Great tires and a good price. Too bad they look so obnoxious. :D
As kenchan said, the "reset the TPMS" line is bogus. The tire pressure light on the dash is run off the ABS (wheelspeed) sensors so there is nothing for the tire folks to mess with. You may have to reset the dash light yourself, but that's easy. Turn the key one click, hold down the button under the handbrake lever until the dash light lights up solid and stays that way, start the car, drive for a few feet and the light goes out. Do not pay extra for any TPMS stuff.
Jason -- I called Keeler to ask about that and they told me there were two different TPMS types, one like you described and the other on the inside end of the valve stem. The changeover happened in early 05, they said, and my MC was born in May of 05.
Keeler service said the valve stem type had to be reset by computer, and that $20 was on the high end of reasonable.
Now I'm completely confused!
Pete
Keeler service said the valve stem type had to be reset by computer, and that $20 was on the high end of reasonable.
Now I'm completely confused!
Pete
Originally Posted by Boondox
Jason -- I called Keeler to ask about that and they told me there were two different TPMS types, one like you described and the other on the inside end of the valve stem. The changeover happened in early 05, they said, and my MC was born in May of 05.
Could be... check the manual?

My Cooper is old, after all.
Originally Posted by Boondox
Jason -- I called Keeler to ask about that and they told me there were two different TPMS types, one like you described and the other on the inside end of the valve stem. The changeover happened in early 05, they said, and my MC was born in May of 05.
Keeler service said the valve stem type had to be reset by computer, and that $20 was on the high end of reasonable.
Now I'm completely confused!
Pete
Keeler service said the valve stem type had to be reset by computer, and that $20 was on the high end of reasonable.
Now I'm completely confused!
Pete
how come NO ONE have mentioned anything about the sensors in the stems?
Uh huh... he is BSing....
Mine is July05...........
Here's a shot of my Cooper with the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3

bigger: http://static.flickr.com/23/38380171_a25d4b1a30_o.jpg
Here's what they look like after a fair amount of abuse on a racetrack:


The tread pattern is symmetrical from side to side - there should be the same depth grooves on both shoulders.
That wear is from use you would not see on public roads, though. And I did continue to use them beyond what's in those pictures... the wear indicators wound up being above the rest of the tread. At that point, I was only using them on the track, not on the street. They were way past being legal.

bigger: http://static.flickr.com/23/38380171_a25d4b1a30_o.jpg
Here's what they look like after a fair amount of abuse on a racetrack:


The tread pattern is symmetrical from side to side - there should be the same depth grooves on both shoulders.

That wear is from use you would not see on public roads, though. And I did continue to use them beyond what's in those pictures... the wear indicators wound up being above the rest of the tread. At that point, I was only using them on the track, not on the street. They were way past being legal.
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