Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Help decide spring & shock for street How much 4 Labor?

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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Help decide spring & shock for street How much 4 Labor?

Am going to redo the suspension on my MCS. I've 17x7 wheels with a 40mm offset and run stock tire sizes, certainly don't want any rubbing issues when I'm done either. This is a daily driver on the Miami roads/highways and won't be tracked. M7 or H-sport seem to fit that need but am unsure about a set of shocks to compliment the springs. I figure to just do it all at once. I'll also include a sway bar too for the rear. What combination would be ideal for this?

About how many labor hours would sound right here, including alignment for all of it?

THanks all!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by s4gerri
This is a daily driver on the Miami roads/highways and won't be tracked.
And the stock suspension isn't enough for you...?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by s4gerri
About how many labor hours would sound right here, including alignment for all of it?

THanks all!
You're looking at about 3 to 8 hours of labour, it really depends on the shop. And alignment is anywhere from $50 to $100 USD or so, I think.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:42 AM
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I've got pricing from $280-350 for installation. And thats not including an alignment. I've heard its pretty straight forward to do by yourself. I got some brand new eibach pro kit springs for sale. good luck
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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And Kellzir wins today's stealth sales plug award!

s4gerri - what are you looking to get out of the suspension? What does it do or not do that you are trying to modify? Just want a lowered look? How much do you want to spend? Answering those questions will help people know how to advise you. The 'ideal combination' depends on what you're looking for.

Randy Webb has a good FAQ that might help.

IMO, unless you just want the car lower, a rear sway is the perfect equalizer for the MCS. Now which one leads to another set of questions. If you're comfortable with the possibility of lift throttle oversteer, go for a 22MM (or equivalent). If not, start with a 19MM.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:37 AM
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what tires do you have?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
And Kellzir wins today's stealth sales plug award!

s4gerri - what are you looking to get out of the suspension? What does it do or not do that you are trying to modify? Just want a lowered look? How much do you want to spend? Answering those questions will help people know how to advise you. The 'ideal combination' depends on what you're looking for.
I'd like to get the car a bit lowered, not slammed but just take a little bit of the space up above the tires. If I can achieve a better riding car with improved handling at the same time, that is what I'd like. As good as this MCS handles stock, I'm sure there were some compromises made to hold the line on costs at the factory.

I had money set aside for a new Mini but as I wound up with a used one which I'm more the happy with and was bought right, I can spend on mods. Not crazy, but I'd think about 2-2.5k if needed for this part.

Yes, Kellzir was all over this post, but you have to appreciate that!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ScuderiaMini
what tires do you have?
Stock Pirelli Euphoria's. I know there may be better choices and I might upgrade them too, but I really want to burn these up a bit before replacing them - they are like new.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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suspension

I'm giving my 2003 mcs a jcw suspension kit for its 49,000 mile birthday. I was thinking to wait till the oe dampers needed replacement but the mod bug got a hold of me again. Its only fair since the brute got it's last mods exactly 1 year ago when it got upgraded from a 15% pulley to the full 19%/giac/jcw injectors/jcw airbox/obx header treatment. I have resisted the 1" drop aftermarket springs/dampers/control arm crave and I think its going to pay off. The jcw suspension is exactly what I was looking for, a moderate drop and enhanced handling. Why am I sort jacking the thread? , thats coz I think the jcw suspension would be your best bet too. Look into it, it may be what you are looking for. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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No worries hi-jacking the thread - its why I'm asking. I actually have considered that strongly along with Dinan's set-up. Neither is radical at all, they just seem like fine tuning
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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The H-Sports are the only springs that really only drop the car 1", most others will drop it a bit more. They also give back lost suspension travel by replacing the bump stop with a shorter unit that has a higher durometer.

They will work well with what you are looking for, and run about $225 from us (my shameless sales plug). It depends on the shop as to how much it will be for install. If they do it right, it will only be a minimal alignment, and if your car is a Jan '05 build or later, you have stock rear camber adjustment available. If not, you may or may not need rear control arms to make the alignment change - there is that much of a difference in cars. There is no duplicate labor, so I recommend doing the spring change then seeing if you need the control arms; it saves you a bit of money if you don't. We charge 3 hours for all four springs and our labor rate is $85/hour. We charge an additional $150 for a full race alignment, $85 for toe only.

The ride will be minimally impacted.

Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions.

Hope that helps!
Randy
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyBMC
The H-Sports are the only springs that really only drop the car 1", most others will drop it a bit more. They also give back lost suspension travel by replacing the bump stop with a shorter unit that has a higher durometer.

They will work well with what you are looking for, and run about $225 from us (my shameless sales plug). It depends on the shop as to how much it will be for install. If they do it right, it will only be a minimal alignment, and if your car is a Jan '05 build or later, you have stock rear camber adjustment available. If not, you may or may not need rear control arms to make the alignment change - there is that much of a difference in cars. There is no duplicate labor, so I recommend doing the spring change then seeing if you need the control arms; it saves you a bit of money if you don't. We charge 3 hours for all four springs and our labor rate is $85/hour. We charge an additional $150 for a full race alignment, $85 for toe only.

The ride will be minimally impacted.

Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions.

Hope that helps!
Randy
About that 'minimally impacted" ride, is that for the better?

You didn't mention the shocks... are those stock units okay for now? I'd think the labor would be the same if they're replaced at the same time, which is why I put that on the 'to do' list.

Knowing this is a tough question for you to anwer as your Sway Bar is just out, is it at $475 a bit over the top for my needs vs. your other offerings at half that amount? Your Sway Bar IS a work of art, by the way and makes total sense to me! I'd like it just for some 'bling' where there ain't none.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 09:18 PM
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I was specifically vague on the minimally impacted because I've seen it go both ways.

The H-Sports, and a few of the others, were designed for use with the stock shocks, and they have great rebound and compression rates. I'd keep them on a car with less than 50K miles.

The H-Sport and our Preferred bar (which isn't shown anywhere, so you'll have to call to order) are both adequate bars. Is the WMS bar worth it? Absolutely - the bar comes with the droplinks at that price, so the difference is less than $100. For that cost, the reaction of the bar is much more predictable, and the bushing material is a zero maintenance item. You can also grow into playing with preload and stiffness adjustment, but you don't have to straight away. That doesn't discount the above mentioned bars though - they are great too, they just have less adjustment and require a bit more attention with regard to the bushing.

Hope that helps!
Randy
 
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