Suspension low budget / temp camber measurement
low budget / temp camber measurement
I have a question / comment on camber.
I have H&R springs and upper & lower adjustable controll arms.
When I installed them I did have a camber and alignment check.
On track days I do dial in some extra camber and then (when I get around to it) turn it back.
So here is the question: on a level surface, why can't I use a large right angle (24" X 24") and measure to the upper lip of the rim height, then at 90 degree measure to the rim it self. as a base point to at least be close going back and forth between set ups?
So set the camber and measure it...
the even set it up for track and measure it...
Then I would think that I could get very close to the correct camber.
OK ... I know it would be "Close" but what are you guys doing? You arn't paying someone to do this in an alignment shop EVERY time are you ?
I am not a math whiz but ther must be a formula that could be used.
(now I regret not listining in math class)
A known height to the height of upper rim lip
90 degree
a measurement to the rim
That is a right angle triangle with 2 known sides !
So how do I figure degree ?
If this works I think that I could make a heavy (poster / art board) "tool"
ANY INPUT ???
I have H&R springs and upper & lower adjustable controll arms.
When I installed them I did have a camber and alignment check.
On track days I do dial in some extra camber and then (when I get around to it) turn it back.
So here is the question: on a level surface, why can't I use a large right angle (24" X 24") and measure to the upper lip of the rim height, then at 90 degree measure to the rim it self. as a base point to at least be close going back and forth between set ups?
So set the camber and measure it...
the even set it up for track and measure it...
Then I would think that I could get very close to the correct camber.
OK ... I know it would be "Close" but what are you guys doing? You arn't paying someone to do this in an alignment shop EVERY time are you ?
I am not a math whiz but ther must be a formula that could be used.
(now I regret not listining in math class)
A known height to the height of upper rim lip
90 degree
a measurement to the rim
That is a right angle triangle with 2 known sides !
So how do I figure degree ?
If this works I think that I could make a heavy (poster / art board) "tool"
ANY INPUT ???
Originally Posted by bpago
I have a question / comment on camber.
I have H&R springs and upper & lower adjustable controll arms.
When I installed them I did have a camber and alignment check.
On track days I do dial in some extra camber and then (when I get around to it) turn it back.
So here is the question: on a level surface, why can't I use a large right angle (24" X 24") and measure to the upper lip of the rim height, then at 90 degree measure to the rim it self. as a base point to at least be close going back and forth between set ups?
So set the camber and measure it...
the even set it up for track and measure it...
Then I would think that I could get very close to the correct camber.
OK ... I know it would be "Close" but what are you guys doing? You arn't paying someone to do this in an alignment shop EVERY time are you ?
I am not a math whiz but ther must be a formula that could be used.
(now I regret not listining in math class)
A known height to the height of upper rim lip
90 degree
a measurement to the rim
That is a right angle triangle with 2 known sides !
So how do I figure degree ?
If this works I think that I could make a heavy (poster / art board) "tool"
ANY INPUT ???
I have H&R springs and upper & lower adjustable controll arms.
When I installed them I did have a camber and alignment check.
On track days I do dial in some extra camber and then (when I get around to it) turn it back.
So here is the question: on a level surface, why can't I use a large right angle (24" X 24") and measure to the upper lip of the rim height, then at 90 degree measure to the rim it self. as a base point to at least be close going back and forth between set ups?
So set the camber and measure it...
the even set it up for track and measure it...
Then I would think that I could get very close to the correct camber.
OK ... I know it would be "Close" but what are you guys doing? You arn't paying someone to do this in an alignment shop EVERY time are you ?
I am not a math whiz but ther must be a formula that could be used.
(now I regret not listining in math class)
A known height to the height of upper rim lip
90 degree
a measurement to the rim
That is a right angle triangle with 2 known sides !
So how do I figure degree ?
If this works I think that I could make a heavy (poster / art board) "tool"
ANY INPUT ???
Anyway, what is your TOE? This is a crucial adjustment that usually changes when changing camber.
Toe is quite easy to calculate, especially if you get a toe plate. Since you have upper and lower control arms, it's also an easy adjustment. BUT you can start to get your whole car out of track if you don't check that once in a while. You don't want to start going down the road (track) sideways!
If you have not gotten your car aligned since your control arm install then you better do that ASAP. Then start from there.
^^^ +1
Although ive seen people do alignments using strings and levels, etc.
i would not do it on a conventional garage floor where your reading
are probably distorted. we're sometimes talking about tenths even
hundredths of a degree and just by raising and lowering the car
to adjust the camber and toe will usually alter the ride height as
the springs do not settle right away. that means, your camber
and toe readings are already off.
you need to put the car on a computerized alignment rack to
measure as accurately as possible, referrably you in the car
or some simulated weight in the vehicle. i would not be surprised
if your current setting has toe pointing unevenly L/R to a point you
have some thrust angle.
The MCS's alignment is not as sensitive to height as on other cars
so you might be able to get away with not getting it professionally
aligned, but i'd still recommend you take it in to get a baseline
alignment since you have coilovers/camber/toe rods. why spend
so much and cheap out on the final process where it all ties it
together?
Although ive seen people do alignments using strings and levels, etc.
i would not do it on a conventional garage floor where your reading
are probably distorted. we're sometimes talking about tenths even
hundredths of a degree and just by raising and lowering the car
to adjust the camber and toe will usually alter the ride height as
the springs do not settle right away. that means, your camber
and toe readings are already off.
you need to put the car on a computerized alignment rack to
measure as accurately as possible, referrably you in the car
or some simulated weight in the vehicle. i would not be surprised
if your current setting has toe pointing unevenly L/R to a point you
have some thrust angle.
The MCS's alignment is not as sensitive to height as on other cars
so you might be able to get away with not getting it professionally
aligned, but i'd still recommend you take it in to get a baseline
alignment since you have coilovers/camber/toe rods. why spend
so much and cheap out on the final process where it all ties it
together?
thanks
I now and will continue to have alignments (and camber) set at least yearly.
I was after something that would be moe accurate that "turn adjuster 4.5 turns"
As I flip flop at least 1 every month
I did recieve a PM with a link for a camber adjustment tool
THANKS TO ALL
I was after something that would be moe accurate that "turn adjuster 4.5 turns"
As I flip flop at least 1 every month
I did recieve a PM with a link for a camber adjustment tool
THANKS TO ALL
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