I peformed a search and found no subject regarding my question.

I've probably performed 350 oil changes on all sorts of cars in the last 35 years. I cannot beleive the trouble I am having with the O-Ring. Twice in 39,000 miles the O-ring has torn apart while re-installing the filter canister.

...the O-Ring is installed, and the canister and O-ring are brought up to warm temps by running each under very warm tap water - the O-Ring shrinks when heated. I assumed that a cold O-Ring might have been the problem the first time, hence the new procedure. I then pour a little fresh oil over the O-Ring and threads. I then carefully rotate the O-Ring to make sure it is completely lubricated. This process has worked, but last night, depsite following this procedure, it happend again. I cannot find any burrs or deformations in the canister.

I sense no change in resistance while screw the canister on. That written, it has never gone on by hand; requires too much effort. So I use a socket, turning very slowly, careful to make sure that the resistance feels the same until it is tight.

Any thoughts??? I'm use OEM filters.

Just thought of something...at the 24 Heurs a few years ago, wheels were falling off at an alarming rate. It was a very rainy and cold race. Center nuts were removed, set on the cold ground, during a tire change. It was found that the cold expanded (?) these giving a false torques setting. When they heated up, they became loose and fell off.

Perhaps, the canister is cooling down way too mcuh, with respect to the engine.

 

"Just thought of something...at the 24 Heurs a few years ago, wheels were falling off at an alarming rate. It was a very rainy and cold race. Center nuts were removed, set on the cold ground, during a tire change. It was found that the cold expanded (?) these giving a false torques setting. When they heated up, they became loose and fell off."

meb, you have that backwards, cold shrinks heat expands most things.

Can you get a mirror on a stick or with your finger check for burs inside the base that the canister screws into.
Can you take a picture of an O ring you had problems with?

I haven't had that problem with mine, it must be frustrating.
I always clean the canister groove with brake clean and an old tooth brush so it's spotless then install O ring and oil it. I preseat the new filter onto the base then pull it off and install it all the way into the canister. When I place the canister on the base I always give it about a 1/8-1/4 turn counter clockwise turn to feel if it is sitting square on the base before screwing it down.

 

A while back I remember someone was having a similar problem and they found they were putting the O ring in the wrong groove on the canister. Could it be that?

 

I should certainly know cold contracts and heat expands. Perhaps I let my probalem at hand cloud my thinking.

No, I haven't checked female threaded portion...I'll do that. The canister does no seat well at all, and never has. It's almost as if the O-ring is too big.

In reality, I should be able to get this thing on with ease considering the canister is cold and the engine warm. I removed piston pins by installing the rod and pin assembly in hot water. I dunno, I'm lost...

I wrote, "the O-ring shrinks" I kill me...the canister is expanding. Very bizzare stuff here Norm.

 

No. I've been called an air head many times, but that would be really stupid...perhaps I should check ...in all seriousness, there is only one groove, correct? Now you have me second guessing myself.

How can I be so confident with suspension stuff and at once so lost with engine stuff?

 

I put the oil on the O-ring, and move the rubber O-ring around a bit on the canister before inserting, and then screw on slowly until the canister is started screwing in, then continue to tighten by hand slowly until on fully, then tighten a tiny bit with wrench....

I haven't found the need, but I bet some wd-40 might help even more if you satuated the o-ring before putting on the canister...

good luck, and go slowly.. I found sometimes with much experience, I tend to rush thinking I can easily do things, and then mess up... This oil filter system is easy to work with once you get the hang of it, but the first few times i did the filter change, I needed to use many swear words to get the filter started and screwed in correctly.... I have been changing oil in all my cars since 1978 (rabbit, capri, camaros, berretta, bmws, volvo's, ..........) but this system was a new experience for me

 

Problem is, I cannot ever screw this thing on by hand, and I'm quite fit. Maybe it is in the wrong groove...but then, it should leak, no?

 

I think the only safe way to do this oil filter change is to hand screw it in, else you run the risk of cross threading... keep trying to hand screw it in, it will work. First I push the filter on a bit, which inserts the filter on the tube inside the filter housing, then patiently turn the filter on.. it may take 1 try or 10 seconds or maybe 10 tries and 10 minutes... who knows, but you should be able to hand screw it on...

worst case, next time your at the dealer, have them do the oil change, and ask if you can watch the tech how he does this change.. or any MINIACs near this member to help him....

 

You definitely do not want to be tightening the filter housing with a wrench. The threads have that weird bevel cut on the sides so it makes getting started a bit of a chore, but once you have them lined up, the housing turns pretty easily. Are you pre-seating the filter into the housing, pushing it all the way onto the post in the housing? I have reused the o-ring numerous times and have just given the o-ring a finger dab of Mobil 1 each time with no problems or leakage.

If you are sure the threads are lined up, and it's too tough to turn the housing by hand (and you have normal hand strength and dexterity ), it sounds like you have a burr or obstruction either in the threads on the housing or in the threads on the oil cooler. Have you cleaned either threads with a toothbrush or the like?

 

The oil is a good idea.
The wd-40 not so good. It's a bit harsh on rubber and plastics.

 

The housing or canister is spotless before install - including the threads. I then install the filter into the canister, not the engine portion of the filter assembly. I then install the O-ring. I pre-oil the O-ring, and even add a bit more Mobil 1. Then, I simply try to re-install the canister with the filter element inside. I figured the filter should be installed into the canister because is comes off with it???

Are you suggesting I install the filter into the engine portion first?

Thanks all. I know this stuff should be simple, but I'm mystified.

Oh, and while on this rant, why couldn't the designers cast a female 3/8" or 1/2" drive into the housing? This would have made life much easier. A 36mm socket ain't small.

Michael

 

Does the canister screw onto the housing easily with no filter installed?

 

Are you sure you are putting the o-ring past all of the threads on the canister? It's a bit tough to see in this pic, but there is a groove for the o-ring, beyond the threads. You can also see that bevel-cut that makes getting started a pain:

 

Andy,

Your canister looks quite different from mine. The threaded portion may be identical...

I'll have to take it off again this weekend. What a mess!

I just don't need the O-ring to let go at LRP Thursday

 

"Are you suggesting I install the filter into the engine portion first?"

YES, ( preseat it ) then pull it off and put it into canister. I then place the filter end on a clean surface and press the filter all the way into the canister. I normally use the box the filter came in for a clean surface.

Then place the canister on the base I always give it about a 1/8-1/4 turn counter clockwise turn to feel if it is sitting square on the base before screwing it down by hand.

 

Ya must be doing something wrong. I've changed oil/filter on my MINI a dozen times with no mishaps. (Now the canister filter's o-ring on my MGA is another matter)! I make sure that the o-ring is nice and oiled up prior to slipping it over the canister towards its designated groove. I'm careful not to risk cutting it on any of the threading. Afterwards, I hand tighten the canister than give a =/- 1/4 turn with my torque wrench (set at 18 - 19 ft.lbs).

 

I must be doing something wrong. Norm, I'll try that procedure. But honestly, this isn't rocket science and I just cannot figure out why the filter won't seat properly, and, why it takes some much force to turn it. It is impossible to turn by hand most of the time.

I'll take all this advise and report back next week. I might come back and say...oops.

 

Could the filter housing have been dropped and is now egg shaped or could there be a piece of o-ring or something else in or on the filter receptacle (on the motor) causing binding when engaging the threads?

 

Try testing the threads by removing the filter element and the O-Ring and try threading the canister on. It should definitely spin on quite easily. If not, the threads might be damaged.

Good Luck!

 

Oooh, now there's an idea! Duh. I'll try canister with no filter or O-ring, canister with O-ring, canister with filter...we'll see. I'll have one big happy filter party

There doesn't appear to be anything else on any of the threads - canister or otherwise.

 

Sounds like this canister has been cross threaded at some point. I believe i would replace the filter canister. My 02 Cooper came from the factory with the canister cross threaded. Damn thing started leaking oil within day's of purchase. Thought maybe I got an MG/Rover version instead of the BMW. My 2 cents replace the canister see if that resolves your problem

 

Did you ever confirm where you are putting the o-ring? It doesn't come in contact with the threads or seat anywhere (meaning it doesn't get compressed as the housing gets tighter) so there really isn't anything there to damage it. I do a few of these each day an the only tough part should be starting the threads. Also, I've never seen one come out damaged.