I recently did the timing chain and guides about a month ago.
While driving, the belt started making a horrible squealing noise. I opened the hood and saw the harmonic balancer rattling around. When stopped, it looked like this, not too abnormal but seemed a bit too prominent:

I bought an ATI super damper immediately, thinking the pulley had separated (a known and common issue) and I got a tow home.
I first tried to remove the belt so I could drive home. I had previously used the method of a big crowbar and a bolt or pin stuck into one of the holes on the tensioner. I didn't have the right size bolt on hand, so I had been carrying a long crowbar in the trunk for nothing.
When I took the car apart, I saw the crank pulley was not separated. Instead it had become loose, the bolt backed out about 3/8". When I did the timing chain, I reused the original crank bolt and did not apply loctite. I torqued with an impact gun instead of the proper way, because it was difficult to keep the engine from turning.
While the crank pulley was loose, it had gouged the crankshaft nose, as well as the inside of the crank pulley. This may have been going on for a while before the belt started squealing (and almost fell off).
The crank pulley had burrs and high spots, so when I tried to force the pulley on it got stuck. FYI - A 3 jaw puller (the $25 kit from harbor freight) can remove this easily, shown below. Use the ATI insertion bolt to push off of.

Due to the burrs and high spots, the crankshaft nose needed to be sanded down slightly to allow the new ATI superdamper pulley to fit. I did this by running the car with the belt and pulley off, and carefully holding 150, 220, 500 grit sandpaper up to the spinning crank nose. Do not take too much, just deburr, the crank pulley is supposed to be a very tight fit requiring heating up the pulley to 200 degrees.
To undo the crank bolt (without a full set of the proper tools), a 15mil 1/2" socket, with long breaker bar can be hung off the bolt towards the right, pressing up against frame/bumper. Then crank the motor with the spark plug leads fully removed and taped (to prevent errant sparks). Or use an impact gun. The starter motor will probably be more powerful though. The pulley spins counterclockwise.
To properly torque the crank bolt, have only the right side of the car up in the air, left front wheel must be on the ground. The car should be in 5th gear. Install the lug bolts just 1 or 2 full turns. Put a jack handle or (very) long breaker bar between the lug bolts, so it will get wedged in between the lug bolts and the end of the bar will push on the ground.

Lessons learned:
Don't mess around with the crank pulley bolt. At the very least, reapply blue loctite.
Don't count on the crowbar method to change your pulley on the side of the road. The $40 amazon belt detensioner tool is worth keeping in your trunk.
It's worth having the equipment to take the wheel and fender liner off to remove/replace the belt. Probably worth keeping spares of those plastic fender liner clips.
Starter motor method of removing the crank bolt can be sketchy but is a useful trick to know.

 

Yeah - NEVER EVER RE-USE THE OLD CRANK SHAFT PULLEY BOLT!!!
When I'd upgraded my pulley to an SPI fluid filled pulley; I had the presence of mind to purchase 2wo crank pulley bolts w/threadlocker from Amazon ($16/ea). Glad I did. The first attempt almost stripped the bolt when trying to impact it on into the end of the crank. The 2nd spare I'd bought went in without a problem.

Using a breaker/long bar wedged between 2wo lug bolts and pinned to the ground (to keep the drive axle from spinning) - Although, it had usually worked well for me in the past (on other cars)... I had tried that method on my Mini when replacing my CV axles and failed miserably which resulted in bending the factory lug bolt. Luckily I had spares after having had replaced each lug with a locking lug type.
This happened while trying to do this in a vacant parking lot far from home with no autopart stores nearby. Disaster averted by having the spares.

 

wow that was a close one. good thing you caught it in time

you can hold the engine via a screwdriver in the brake disk, trans in gear