Shop diagnosed a jbe fault for no fuel pump operation- suspect the k96 is fried. I would like to try the external relay method - in a 2013 cooper s. What fuse should I pull power from to feed the fuel pump relay? One member used F 6 but he didn’t have a sunroof, I do. I guess I could overload that circuit if I used the sunroof
motor with fuel pump running?

 

I'll need your VIN to see what options you have on your car.

 

 

From the VIN you provided, your car has a manual transmission correct? Fuse F15 will be an open slot for cars with a manual transmission. Fuse F15 is for "automatic transmission control."

 

Thanks. Yes, it’s a manual. I’ll try F15.

 

I installed the relay as shown but still cranking with no start. I don’t seem to be getting power at the fuel pump. Any ideas?

 

A bad JBE causes the fuel pump to fail because the JBE terminal 30G relay is broken. Unfortunately, fuse 15 also gets battery voltage from the terminal 30G relay, so you need to find a different 12V source for your bypass relay.

 

I tried F6 also and no change. Do you have a suggestion for power source? The sunroof motor works as do most accessories except the windows at least that I have noticed so far.

appreciate the help. I guess I need a few tips in troubleshooting my wiring. I have a multimeter but I’m not great at testing much with it.

 

Let's start with your bypass relay wiring, which is difficult to verify in your pictures.

The fuel pump side of the bypass relay must receive battery voltage from fuse 46 and output the latter voltage to the white/blue wire at pin 9 of white connector X11010.

The switch side of the bypass relay requires a 12V source and a ground source to allow voltage to pass from fuse 46 to the white/blue fuel pump wire. I know you are looking for a proper 12V source, but what are you using for the ground source?

Another question is whether you have verified that the shop's JBE diagnosis is correct.

 

I am using violet/green wire, pin 17 from the connector right above the white connector as the ground. On the relay it connects to the black wire, not sure what pin that is. The white wire on the relay goes to F15 and I tried F6 too, thinking maybe the problem was the 12v source.
completing the relay is blue wire to F46 and red wire to the blue/white wire going to the pump. I had to cut the blue/ white from the white connector but I left enough to splice.

thanks for the help!

 

Can you post a diagram showing how your bypass relay should be wired?

The violet/green wire is good. Have you verified that this DME wire produces good ground?

Have you verified that the F46 wire produces battery voltage?

Have you verified that the shop's diagnosis is correct?

 

And I can tell you how to measure voltage and ground with your multimeter for the different wires, if you post a picture of your multimeter.

 

Do you have a normally-open or normally closed relay? It should be a normally-open relay.

Is this how you wired the bypass relay?

12AWG wires
Pin 87 Blue (Output N/O) -> white/blue wire to fuel pump
Pin 30 Red (VDC) -> 12V from from F46

16AWG wires
Pin 85 Black (Ground) -> violet/green wire to DME ground
Pin 86 White (Trigger) -> ignition switch-controlled 12V source

 

No, I have pin 87 and 30 reversed from what you wrote. It is a normally open relay. I’m hoping you found my mistake. I’ll correct it this afternoon and report back

 

I’ll post it later today. Thanks. If I’m going to keep this Mini I need to learn how to troubleshoot a lt better

 

It's unclear to me whether reversing the order of those two wires would affect the relay function, but it's worth a try.

If you get no joy from swapping those two wires, then some multimeter tests on the relay wires and the relay itself should help to pinpoint the problem.

 

Did you actually test for voltage at the fuel pump connector?

 

Yes, with key in and after hitting start button. No voltage. Also tried while starter was engaged. Same thing.

 

Use this diagram to verify that you are tapping into the correct fuses.

 

Thanks for chart. I do have the Bentley guide but I’m not great reading wiring diagrams.
I checked the fuses F6, F15 and 46 and all have 11.9 v when hitting the start button. I put positive on the fuse and negative on the grounding tab near the door sill. When I try F46 to the pin17 violet green wire, I get 8.4v. Attached is a photo of my multimeter. Battery is at 11.9 also. Seems like plenty of power to run the starter.

 

11.9 V is nearly a dead battery. It would be best to keep your battery on a battery charger or battery tender until you fix the problem.

Can you access the white/blue wire at the splice point with the relay wire? If so, you can do a simple test by connecting a 12V wire to white/blue wire to listen for whether the fuel pump runs. If the pump runs, you know the problem is upstream of the white/blue wire.

 

Your leads are installed correctly. Use the 20VDC setting for your voltage measurements and the audible continuity setting to test grounds and relay activation.

 

I have been using a battery charger on it since December, a model from Griots garage. Not sure why it is only getting to 11.9v. Seems to crank really well. It’s an agm battery.
I’ll put 12v to the white blue wire and report back. Should be able to go directly from the F46 add-a-circuit, correct? It has power

 

Do you measure different battery voltages between + and - battery posts versus + and - battery connectors?
Side note: The somewhat unexpectedly low 8.4V reading between F46 to the pin 17 should be re-tested at some point.

This^ should work or you could run a wire directly from + battery post to the white/blue wire.

 

If the terminal 30G relay goes down, you're going to loose a lot more than just your fuel pump.