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I've got a couple aftermarket keys, they work fine for starting the car and unlocking the doors. I can't get it to pair with the radio for remote features though. Has anyone had success getting an aftermarket radio to work?
The key I'm using for this is basically one of these. 315MHz for BMW Mini Copper R50 R53 2002-2005 Upgraded Flip Remote Car Key Fob https://www.ebay.com/itm/157599031497
@another_r53
Original owner of 2004 MCS The buttons of my 2 oem keys cracked and fell off and would like to try this aftermarket from eBay. My Mini dealer wants $400 each new key!
Where did you go to do the cut-match the oem key?
How did you pair it to start engine and lock/unlock the doors?
Can it open and close the windows & sunroof?
Replacement fobs for R53s are all over Amazon. You can transfer the circuit board and transponder chip from your original key over to the new blank. No need to worry about the Mhz because that's controlled by the circuit board/transponder. Most competent key shops can replicate the key pattern (but cannot program the key). Had a new blank cut today for my 2004. $32.50.
When I bought my 2004 Mini Cooper S JCW it came with one key, so I had two spare keys made by a local fellow who specialized in BMW keys and he was able to program their chips to my Mini, but he did not have the PC boards for the remote lock/unlock.. The fob cases look like those currently for sale on eBay and elsewhere, but he ordered metal mini logos to go in the unlock spot to dress them up where the fobs had just a logo shaped plain rubber cover. I recently swapped the PC board from my original key into one of the spares (after both the lock and unlock buttons in the original fob broke out) and I discovered that the metal logo in the spare was unfortunately too stiff to press the unlock switch on the PC board.
I recently ordered two 315 Mhz PC boards for the spare fobs on AliExpress and when they came I put fresh 2032 button batteries into the PC boards with the negative side toward the board in the battery holder and I tried using the following instructions to pair the new lock/unlock PC boards to my Mini.
To pair or re-synchronize a 2004 Mini Cooper S (R53) key fob,
Enter the car,
Close all doors,
Insert the key into the ignition, turning it to position 1 (first click)
Turn it back off within 5 seconds and remove key from ignition.
Within 10 seconds, hold the unlock button, press lock three times, and release unlock.
1. Preparation: Sit in the driver's seat with all doors closed and have all key fobs ready (if you have multiple, they must be programmed in the same session).
2. Ignition Sequence: Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to Position 1 (KL-R) and then directly back to Position 0 (off) within 5 seconds.
3. Remove Key: Remove the key from the ignition.
4. Pairing Sequence: Within 10 seconds of removing the key, hold down the Unlock button (Button 2).
5. Lock Button Press: While still holding the unlock button, press the Lock button (Button 1 or MINI logo) three times within 10 seconds.
6. Finalize: Release the unlock button. The door locks will automatically cycle (lock then unlock) to confirm successful pairing.
7. Additional Keys: If you have more keys, repeat steps 4-6 within 30 seconds of the first key's successful programming, as the system stays in "initialization stand-by"
I tried the procedure on both of the new PC boards multiple times with the clutch pressed and with it released and with the doors locked and unlocked without any response from the Mini. I also tried turning the battery over with the positive side toward the PC board but there were no lights when the buttons were pressed. I tried one of the PC boards in the original key fob with the broken out buttons, and the little switches are .150” to .160” below the surface of the fob, too far for them to be pushed even if the rubber was still there and really flexible. I guess this attempt to have spares with the remote functions is a bust.
Any suggestions on another way to pair these Chinese PC boards to a 2004 Mini?
Yup, same experience. You'd think with how many people have replaced their keys more would be complaining about the remote features. But I can't find any info about aftermarket options.
Interestingly, I tried all the same procedures you've defined above and it didn't work for me either. I received two keys when I bought the MINI seven years ago. One key locks/unlocks the door and the other doesn't. I even removed the circuit board from the non-working key (because like you I assumed that the micro switches were not being depressed) and tried pushing the buttons directly and no bueno. For the non-working key I did replace the fob with an eBay find, moved the circuit board and transponder over, and had the ignition blank cut using my original so they both start the car but again only one successfully locks/unlocks the door. I assume that the dealership may be the only source to program the key to operate all functions and everyone knows that's a $300+ ticket. Not nearly worth it to me.
Interestingly, I tried all the same procedures you've defined above and it didn't work for me either. I received two keys when I bought the MINI seven years ago. One key locks/unlocks the door and the other doesn't. I even removed the circuit board from the non-working key (because like you I assumed that the micro switches were not being depressed) and tried pushing the buttons directly and no bueno. For the non-working key I did replace the fob with an eBay find, moved the circuit board and transponder over, and had the ignition blank cut using my original so they both start the car but again only one successfully locks/unlocks the door. I assume that the dealership may be the only source to program the key to operate all functions and everyone knows that's a $300+ ticket. Not nearly worth it to me.
I bought my two spare keys 8 years ago for $105 from an interesting guy living in a garage in Fayetteville Arkansas with his cat. He advertised making BMW keys and my car was his first Mini key project. He might be able to pair the PC boards too, but he no longer advertises on Craig''s List or FB Marketplace so I don't know how to find him now.
BTW, I like the specs in your signature. I bought mine from a BMW guy who found it at a Subaru dealers used car lot and bought it because it was a BMW and a JCW and did some further tweaking to it. He told me the original JCW engine produced 212 hp but after he added an M7 Speed cold air intake, an Alta 17% Under Supercharger Pulley, and an ATI Super Damper 2% Over Crank Pulley it produced 252 hp at the front wheels.He thought he may have had larger injectors in it at the time, but it still has more than enough power now.
