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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Hi MINI fans, I am doing my supercharger replacement on my '05 R53 and I am taking off the usual parts, until I got to the Radiator Radiator fan electrical connector,won't budge.
It's brittle and when I press-in the two tabs (at the long ends)and try to pull out the connector, it won't go. Does anyone have any suggestions in getting this off.
I don't know if I have a tried and true solution - Mine is a pain to separate as well.
If it were me; I'd first clean the dirt off the connector.
Then perhaps spray a little WD40 where the connector separates and try wiggling it from side to side while pinching in the tabs and pulling.
I know these plastic tabs/clips don't get better with age and can become brittle and cold temps don't help matters either but if you are mindful and gentle with a pair of needle nose or a small pliers (to press in those tabs) - that might work for you.
Mine are not brittle yet but still stubborn. I am able to slide a small pen knife blade underneath one of the locking end of the tab to release it and pull backwards. I do the same on the other tab if it doesn't come.
I am able to slide a small pen knife blade underneath one of the locking end of the tab to release it and pull backwards. I do the same on the other tab if it doesn't come.
I am certainly not an expert in auto connectors. It seems that if I look at them sideways, they break. But I think you are onto something with sliding a pen knife under the tab, rather than pressing the lever. If not a pen knife, maybe a pick tool.
+1 for pick tool.
I might imagine that if you should inadvertently snap off the locking clip(s), I'm pretty sure the friction between both connecting ends when plugged back together will hold. But that's just a guess.
Yes I pinched-in correctly, I did clean the switch and tried wiggling it and it did come off but part of the switch cracked, still useable. Have an order in with Allmag for a used switch. Update on my supercharger removal, what a nightmare, hose connections were turned around so I couldn't get at them with needlenose pliers, I decided to cut them. Luckily I am replacing all the hoses. I followed all the instructions members have said about supercharger removal and used the Bentley manual for reference. One problem came-up the bolts on the Eaton SC are in inch not metric. The four bolts that are supposed to remove to get the SC off, well its loose but won't pull-out from engine, rechecked my steps and I believe the passenger side exhaust horn duct must come-off to get some clearance. Any suggestions are welcomed.
It’s been a bit more than two years since I did this job, so I’m hazy on it. I do recall the supercharger fought coming out, and once serviced, going back in, I seem to recall having to pull toward the driver (LH) side and twist. Others will surely remember better than me.
You may have found this already, but if not, here is an excellent write-up:
The part that was hanging -up the supercharger was the water pump it was not slipping off the water pump connection flange on the block. So I removed the flange bolts and pops off, no problem. The flange was like it was welded onto the pump, going thru the factory manual its say's to use Syntheso Glep1 (From Kluber, cost in the hundreds for a tube) on the O-rings, I'm using Permatex White Lithium. Thanks for all the suggestions and the great write-up from "WhoHasGotTheBlueS".