I have not checked into this site in over 10 years so no doubt I am a bit clueless so please correct me and point me to existing posts - my initial search didn't get me to what I might need specific to the countryman

Some background
2011 Countryman ALL4 S -Cars been in a half engine mode for a while (turbo shot per my mini specialist I trust) and I am loath to just junk the car I have had it since new and it actually runs fine in limp mode (no oil usage). I have used up all my emissions waivers/extensions and need to finally get this fixed

So I decided why not do the turbo charger replacement myself - I am reasonably handy and don't mind contorting hands into weird places - and I believe there is a way to do the turbo with just releasing the top radiator mounts? I cant seem to find any videos of this anywhere - Any posts/youtube links some one can point me to ? - There is a video from TQ but he seems to remove whole bunch of stuff which sure might be nice an easy when you have a lift but assume there is an easier way - If easier way needs special tools that would be good to know

Any other gotchas, - some obvious extra parts that sense are to replace the oil return (and feed?) lines and use new stud for manifold, any others - again this is not my daily driver and i would be happy to get another couple of years 20k out of the car

Turbo was done under warranty around previously 60k and has lasted until 199k...

I am considering a borgwarner turbo and kit from ECS (or are Detroit tuned kit all you need?) unless there is anyone with some feedback on the mega cheap MaxPeedingRods $200 knock off , anyone had good luck here ? - are they really a US based company ?

The car will rarely see a lot of use and its really going to be used as my car part shuttle (building out a sprinter RV)

 

As many would recommend you cannot go wrong with the borg warner. Some of the no name on ebay and amazon i would worry about.

On the turbo it can be done from the top side. Unbolting that U brace gives you some more room. But you should have more room in that Countryman compared to the n18 on an R56. I could only find videos on the R56 n18. If i find one i will post up.

I would do those two lines for the coolant and the ones for the oil while you are there.

Check and make sure the oil filter housing is not leaking, that's another unit i would do while you are there. Its easier to do it on a rack and from under side and top side. Most people do it top side. Get the kit : https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11652444367/


N18 Oil filter housing. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-housing.html

Hope that helps

 

So a new question - I assume there would be a performance benefit in fitting a JCW vs stock turbo - I dont really want to mess with a tune but if the different turbo would still perform better on stock tune (and running in not ideal tune wont dramatically hurt the engine) I think it might be worth it
Perhaps I can give your shop a call to discuss?

 

 

You have to tune the car for a larger then stock turbo for it to function and increase HP/TQ. Otherwise just go with stock size if you stick with the factory tune. Those videos are good DIYs. I dug and did not find one exclusively on the Countryman R60 S/all4.

 

Here's a brief video on the "service position" for the Countryman, needed for oil filter housing gasket replacement... which I agree with ECSTuning - replace the gasket set while in there.

 

What I recently did was I unbolted the clamp that holds the turbo together, then unbolt the lines holding the compressor side. Once you have the compressor side away the rest is pretty easy to get to. You still have to remove the entire manifold with the turbo but this was the "easiest" way Ive found. Make sure to either have a really long extension and bolt in the new drain hose last! You wont be able to get to the manifold bolts if you dont when you put it back together.

I used a Gearwrench XL Flexhead Wrench and a very small 1/4" Ratchet for other bolts. Unlike others, I take off the turbo brace and manifold braces, I dont see the point of them as the turbo is held on pretty well already and the manifold braces seem pointless.