'm trying to solve the no start problem on my friend's 2008 R52 convertible. A local mechanic who claims to "know foreign cars" simply threw parts at it- plugs, relays, cam position sensors,etc. He also told her that his computer wouldn't connect to the car and he couldn't do a diagnosis - All BS IMHO.


Here's what I know. The car ran about a year ago (after sitting for 6 months) but then the battery died prior to the owner's attempt at starting it. It was jumped but wouldn't start. The battery was subsequently replaced.

Fast forward to now. I was able to scan it using my Autel MaxiSys tool and got a 1656 immobilizer DME EWS "incorrect code" . In addition there was a 500 fault DME,vehicle speed signal fault, though I don't think that's related.

All of this would suggest the common problem that I've read about in multiple posts, the out of alignment issue. Does that make sense? If not,what should I be looking at? Assuming it's the alignment problem, is it reasonable to expect that I'll be able to use one of the cables available on Amazon (or elsewhere) and the ISTA software to solve the problem? Is there a preferred cable? Where should I source the ISTA? I don't think my Autel will handle that.

 

Yeah, firing the parts cannon is not "knowing foreign cars". I probably wouldn't trust someone who tells me he "knows foreign cars". There are simply too many brands to know them all. You'd better find someone who knows BMW/Minis specifically.

Yes it makes sense. Cranking means the EWS does recognize the key code (there's a relay to only activate the starter if the EWS recognize the key code). Not starting could mean a number of thing, but the code you observed does point toward an out of alignment between the ECM and EWS: since the ECM is out of alignment, it doesn't recognize the code feed by the EWS and therefore cut injection, leading in a "crank no start" situation.

Yes, though you could use INPA or DIS too. INPA install procedure: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4601015

A K+DCAN cable. Look for one with the switch to bridge pins, which is mandatory to work for first gens (you can modify one yourself but it's a pain)

No clue, but (like INPA), it's not available to the general public, so you'll have to get a pirated version somewhere.

 

Air, spark, fuel. Have you verified you have spark and fuel in each cylinder?

It sounds like the car has been sitting for months with a dead battery. I'd clear all the codes, verify you have spark and fuel, then give it a crank. Then see if any codes come back. I've seen dead batteries cause all kinds of confusion and codes. Reset it and start fresh.

 

Just a thought: If it's a manual trans, there's a Hall effect switch attached to the clutch pedal. If that gets disconnected from the pedal the car will not start.