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When the shop replaced the axle last year they used a punch along the whole length of the nut instead of just bending an outer tab. (See pics). I've carefully hammered out some of their MANY indentations with a small screwdriver, but not all. Nut won't budge - don't want to force it any more as any of the indentations/protrusions might damage the axle threads. I'm thinking the safest bet is to cut down the slots (where there are no threads) and then try removal with the socket or just cut the whole nut off. PIA. Removing to replace whining wheel bearing. Anyone else done this? Any advice greatly appreciated - thank you.
I don't have a solution for you sadly. If you try to cut the nut, you're nearly guaranteed to damage the threads on the shaft. Because you can't cut to the minor diameter of the nut thread without cutting past the major diameter of the shaft thread. Sometimes people get lucky by getting it close and then hitting the nut with a cold chisel and the nut splits, usually with some amount of damage to the shaft thread (if not from cutting too deep, deformed from hit with cold chisel).
I would imagine the surface hardness of the shaft threads would be higher than the nut. Makes me think your best chance of success is still just loosening the nut. Since the mushroomed part is at the end of the shaft threads, if a couple of end of shaft threads are deformed, might be able to just run back over them with a thread die, and again this should only be at the end threads, most of the threads should be fine. When attempting to loosen, not necessarily sure how to brace the shaft from the torque so you aren't using the gearbox for that purpose.
Has it even budged loose, the tiniest bit? If not one little bit, I'm not sure you're fighting those dimples yet.
Put the wheel back on and lower to the ground. Remove center wheel cap and use a breaker bar on the axle nut. Your gun might not be powerful enough. Add some pipe/lever to your breaker bar if needed.
Thanks y'all. I've decided to take another crack at breaking it loose. 6 of one, half dozen of the other - I'll get out all of the indentations I can; getting a 6 foot pipe for the breaker bar. If any indentations are left and damage the threads I'm out a new axle. If I cut the nut and damage the threads, same thing. Many more testimonials with the nut eventually breaking free with a breaker/pipe and foul language than there are for successfully cutting the nut.
We can put a remote control dune buggy on Mars but I'm still changing wheel bearing with a pipe and brute force.
LOL! I'm sorry what I said made for extra reading, but honestly, that's the way. The other folks are right. What njaremka said about someone holding the breaks is a good idea. If something won't let go, I promise you'll break your breaker bar with a 6ft piece of pipe.
LOL! I'm sorry what I said made for extra reading, but honestly, that's the way. The other folks are right. What njaremka said about someone holding the breaks is a good idea. If something won't let go, I promise you'll break your breaker bar with a 6ft piece of pipe.
I'm going to run down to Harbor Freight and see if they have a fixed head breaker bar (no swivel), as I imagine the swivel is the weakest point. Prob get a shorter 32 socket; mine is a little long and could disengage while I huff and puff, putting me down face first.
Planned on doing the rear brake pads as well, but of course the passenger rear is stuck on, so I'll be doing the loosened lug nut driveway two step to try and free it up.A one afternoon remove and replace has turned into a project.
