R60 Parts replacing and maintenance for my 13’ R60 S All 4
Parts replacing and maintenance for my 13’ R60 S All 4
Hello y’all!
Just a general question… So my R60 just passed 130k miles, and I am curious what parts around engine should I changed?
So far what I’ve done:
- Both VVT solenoids
- New diverter valve
- New throttle valve (the old one straight sent my R60 into limp mode on a highway)
- Replaced 4 ignition coils and NGK plugs (two faulty ignition coils also sent my car into limp mode on a highway…)
I heard some people have HPFP failed or just replace it for good. Any thoughts? Mine is still running fine and don’t think it will still cover by the warranty. I may eventually replace the turbo, but it is not on my top list right now.
Thank you all for taking a look!
Just a general question… So my R60 just passed 130k miles, and I am curious what parts around engine should I changed?
So far what I’ve done:
- Both VVT solenoids
- New diverter valve
- New throttle valve (the old one straight sent my R60 into limp mode on a highway)
- Replaced 4 ignition coils and NGK plugs (two faulty ignition coils also sent my car into limp mode on a highway…)
I heard some people have HPFP failed or just replace it for good. Any thoughts? Mine is still running fine and don’t think it will still cover by the warranty. I may eventually replace the turbo, but it is not on my top list right now.
Thank you all for taking a look!
Thank you for the notes. Just curious, what sort of codes will the timing chain throw? Mine haven’t yet and replacing timing chain is in my todo list. Assuming you waited till it throw codes?
2013 R60 with N18 engine will be pretty reliable. I would change plugs and coils, and all fluids. No point in changing solenoids and diverter valve if still running good. Same with throttle valve. Keep a good schedule of fluid changes, and drive it hard. My Clubman has 200k+ miles, and still OEM original throttle and timing gear, never had to replace turbo or oil filter housing gaskets. I’ve replaced parts as needed, and changed fluids religiously since purchase 8 years ago. Been running stage 2 tune for most of that time also.
The codes were related to timing essentially saying that Vanos couldn't accommodate whatever was going on due to chain stretch. From what I read, if you do more regular oil changes than the car wants like 5k instead of 10k you can get a longer life out of the chain. There was also an updated chain tensioner with longer travel at some point which helped as well. Low oil seems to cause issues as well with the plastic chain guides.
Yeah, the solenoids can wait until they start throwing codes. I had an exhaust solenoid code. Changed out both intake and exhaust, and the code went away. I also changed out my tensioner at some point, just because, but the old one still had some strength to it when I did. I have also never had a walnut blast performed.
Yeah, the solenoids can wait until they start throwing codes. I had an exhaust solenoid code. Changed out both intake and exhaust, and the code went away. I also changed out my tensioner at some point, just because, but the old one still had some strength to it when I did. I have also never had a walnut blast performed.
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As far as I know. I bought the car with 32,000 miles on it, and I never performed a timing chain service.
In addition to what you have done I would do
-Timing Chain - recommend Detroit Tuned cryo set (be careful with the flywheel hold pin it can get stuck)
-water pump
-Idler
-Friction Drive
-PCV
-turbo oil line
-all hoses
-Timing Chain - recommend Detroit Tuned cryo set (be careful with the flywheel hold pin it can get stuck)
-water pump
-Idler
-Friction Drive
-PCV
-turbo oil line
-all hoses
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