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Alright, so I'm about to replace a good bit of suspension parts. I'm trying to be as comprehensive as possible. I'd love any input on my list if I'm missing something.
Also, keep in mind that I've already replaced the shocks and struts and added strut tower reinforcement. I have new rotors and pads, too. I've replaced both of the cv axles, as well.
Here is my list for this bit of work.
Delphi Ball joints
Psb control arm bushing
Psb front sway bar bushing
Delphi front sway bar end links
Corteco axle seals pass and driver
Rein rack and pinion bellows (mine are damaged)
Psb rear sway bar bushings
Delphi rear sway bar end link
I just realized, as I write this, that I think I did the tie rod ends on my old mini, not this one. So, I'll order up some tie rods.
looks like you got it. how about rear control arms?
also a good time to change out power streeing lines / hoses
and oil filter housing gasket, oil pan gasket if needed
I was mostly trying to focus on the front, except for the sway bar, obviously.
I already replaced the PS lines and reservoir. And the power steering pump.
I've already done the oil pan and oil filter housing gaskets, as well as the valve cover and oil cooler, and a couple sensor orings. I actually have a timing chain kit ready to go on, too. Along with the super charger service and a few other things.
I was going to do that all separately, but I'm kinda thinking that maybe now would be a good time to do the front end of the engine since I'm going to have so many pieces out of the way.
Hmmm....
The stock rear control arm bushings are considerably harder than the fronts. It likely won’t really matter. I’m still running the stock upper bushings on my car.
Same time otherwise you'll be running poly bushings in front and rubber bushings in back. Compensation rates will be different.
Yea, I suppose you're right that the rates will be different, but I'm not really worried about that level of detail right now. I'm just trying to focus on getting the front as squared away as I can. I just included the rear sway bar stuff because it's easy and should help reduce some of the clinking I get back there.
I'm also doing a ton of engine work while the suspension is out of the way. The rear can wait.
Alright, so I'm about to replace a good bit of suspension parts. I'm trying to be as comprehensive as possible. I'd love any input on my list if I'm missing something.
Also, keep in mind that I've already replaced the shocks and struts and added strut tower reinforcement. I have new rotors and pads, too. I've replaced both of the cv axles, as well.
Here is my list for this bit of work.
Delphi Ball joints Psb control arm bushing
Psb front sway bar bushing
Delphi front sway bar end links
Corteco axle seals pass and driver
Rein rack and pinion bellows (mine are damaged)
Psb rear sway bar bushings
Delphi rear sway bar end link
I just realized, as I write this, that I think I did the tie rod ends on my old mini, not this one. So, I'll order up some tie rods.
Anything else I'm missing?
How is the performance of this PSB control arm bushing? did it add more vibrations\harshness?
umm...i don't know that i could realistically isolate the control arm bushings for any additional vibrations. i ended up doing a ton of things about the same time as i did the suspension.
in september of 24 i did a new upper motor mount with a bushing insert. then, in december 24 / january 25 i did the whole front suspension as well as add a new transmission mount with a poly bushing insert, as well.
my car definitely vibrates at idle.
but, for performance, the front end really tightened up nicely overall. i'm not affected by the NVH, though, as i don't spend much time at idle. and the improvement when driving is night/day.
+1 for poly bushings (Powerflex or otherwise).
CAB will not contribute or cause NVH. You will notice responsive handling right away. Poly bushings should/will outlast the rubber ones for years/miles to come.
These poly bushings like POWERFLEXEs and PSBs, are they worth it reliability wise? I don't want to do this again.
I already have the stock rubber bushings now I am thinking about this poly bushing type.
if you already replaced with new “oem” rubber bushings and have it all together then I suppose it’s not worth the work unless you want tighter suspension, or wait 5-10 years. But yeah, you want poly bushings for the front lower control arm.
+1 for poly bushings (Powerflex or otherwise).
CAB will not contribute or cause NVH. You will notice responsive handling right away. Poly bushings should/will outlast the rubber ones for years/miles to come.
does these poly bushings transfer more road bumps to the cabin compared to regular stock rubbers?
I've been seeing comments like these that they went back to stock rubber.
I don’t think I’ve ever heard of anyone going back to rubber bushings from poly front control arm bushings. I can’t say I noticed any difference in NVH from them.
does these poly bushings transfer more road bumps to the cabin compared to regular stock rubbers?
I've been seeing comments like these that they went back to stock rubber.
or it's just the same?
With respect to front Poly CAB - I would say no. Or better yet I hadn't noticed...
The one sure thing I noticed, compared to the stock OEM (which mine were not in need of replacing); was the feel in handling. Tighter = Much more responsive and silent over bumps and humps.
No harshness.
If and when it comes time to refresh the rear suspension on your Mini -
As much as I condone and in favor of poly bushings (Powerflex) as opposed to rubber - I felt that the poly/Powerflex rear top shock mount bushing to be the exception.
I had ordered and installed the Powerflex rear shock mount bushings but found them to be too stiff.
I had previously installed a set of TRQ complete struts on all fours (stock height) a for a couple of years and really liked them before I decided to go lower with coilovers.
The one thing that impressed me was how resilient, durable and comfortable the hard RUBBER rear top strut mounts were. Even after 2wo years I had found that they had barely shown any evidence of squash or deformation.
The TRQ rear strut mount bushings by themselves are (near) impossible to find these days but I had finally found a great replacement match on: Hardraceusa.com....
Tnx very much guys. Hope you guys are not getting annoyed with my repeated questions.
I just wanted a stock ride no added NVH and reliability. Then you guys mentioned about "tighter \responsive steering" which to me is bonus.
My stock rubber bushings are here and waiting for the POLYs. That's decision is made I am going for Polys. Is there a maintenance for these? like greasing them after a year? or it's set it and forge it.
Done right the first time - little if No maintenance. "Set it and forget it" if you choose -
Just be sure to lube them well and torque to spec.
Personally, (perhaps my misconception) was that lube attracts and retains dirt/sand. So I didn't go too liberal with the provided silicone lube. Don't make this same mistake. It is/has been emphasized and recommend to use all of the silicone provided with the poly bushings.
I felt at first, that it was too much lube. But having had to re-lube my squeeking rear Powerflex sway bar bushings due to incificient lube (at the time of installation)...I definitely have a different attitude towards "too much lube".
Lube the bushings well.