Hey all,
2012 MIni COuntryman S, 65k miles. It is our daughters car who is attending university overseas currently so it does not get driven much, except by myself and my wife when we wanna zip around town and just make sure the car isn't sitting. Anyway-wife got a BMW coupon for an oil change at the dealer-I always change oil myself on all of our cars but, she went and did it anyway. So they did an 'inspection' and per usual, gave us like 7k in repair estimates. Turbo needs to be replaced (drives fine still, I just get that engine malfunction error from time to time) a bunch of the small easy things, serpentine belt, rear brake pads, brake fluid flush, new tires, filters, radiator fluid flush (there is a coolant/oil mix leak from time to time, on and on and on-yeah, what a great car! (never again...to think my daughter had a prius she could have kept) All stuff I can do myself when I find time.

BUT-here was the thing that needs attention asap. They took a video of the inspection and noticed the engine is rocking around, and said the engine mount bolts are loose and/or missing! I just put the car on jack stands and the engine does rock around, how the hell do those bolts come loose? We bought this car preowned from MINI at 45k miles, previous owner did ALL his services at MINI, I saw on old records he had the engine mounts replaced at like 40k? not sure if this is same thing. ANYWAY, BMW said that they need to REMOVE THE AXLE to get at those motor mount bolts and tighten, "but they could be damaged"....and "one of them is missing"....so, if anyone has any tips on just this motor mount bolt mess, let me know. Tried searching the web, but didn't come up with much on this.

Video here

 

Well, good luck getting MINI to admit they didn't do the work properly. In my few years on this forum, I haven't heard of engine mounts needing to be replaced, certainly not that soon, but I don't suppose that is important.

I find it far more likely the threads in the block would be damaged before the bolts, but anything is possible on these stupid cars. That is to say I imagine the bolts are fine and just should be torqued down properly. Actually, that could be the problem, maybe somebody stripped threads in the block and that's why they've worked loose. Let us hope not. From the video it sure does look challenging to get a new bolt in the missing hole. But, it either wasn't put back in at service, or it loosened and fell out implying you can get a new bolt in without removing the drivetrain components.

 

I've gotta look at the past service records, but if I recall there was some engine mounts/vibration mounts/something mounts were replaced early in the cars life-dont think this is that....regardless, I have tried every make shift socket and its not gonna work-so I need to take wheel off and maybe the friggin axle. If anyone has any photos or video of removing axle? to get to these i'd appreciate it-or what manual I could look at? hell maybe a screen grab of the front axle schematics to just get an idea of the work im in for. I can afford the time/luxury of putting this dumb car on jacks and taking my time, but I would like to get it driveable for when my kid comes home to visit for holidays haha.

Thanks

 

Kinda hoping removing axle like this will get me to those bolts.

 

I've not done it on a MINI but what he did is what I'd consider to be standard practice for removing a front half shaft. I've done it on Jeeps and trucks basically same as him. I did NOT care for watching him hammer on the end of the half shaft. Maybe his hammer is lead or something but I wouldn't want to damage the threads, I'd put the nut on flush with the end of the threads and hammer on the overall surface to protect the threads. Maybe the end of the shaft has dead space before the threads start, I don't know.

The lower ball joint, one just never knows how hard they will come apart, his wasn't too bad. Sometimes you need a ball joint separator and some really nasty hammering and end up damaging the ball joint so be aware of that if you weren't already.

Sometimes in a tight spot I'll run to a hardware store and grab several of an individual socket size, and I'll cut them in half lengthwise, grind the outside diameter down to make a thin-wall socket, etc. Same with a wrench. Sounds like you might've tried these things already.

TisUI this link is to the paid bmw service site. Have to login and pay, but with a bit of work you'll probably be able to find exactly any diagrams you might need. When I rebuilt my motor this had every step I needed, disassembly/reassembly, including torque specs and part numbers. When I used it, I would try to think of even tangentially related things and download them all at once for a one-day access fee...even then I had to re-pay several times for things I forgot.

Sorry I don't have the answer for you, hopefully someone with a brain comes along.

 

ok, got the axle off, and got to this motor bracket, it appears there are for sure 4 bolts (because I got 2 of the long 2" ones out, lower mount bolts id call them, and there is 2 upper mount bolts that are both in the friggin engine case).

Pics below-so 2 questions,
• are there just 4 bolts? because the mount has 6 holes.

• And any pro tips to getting the snapped bolts out in that tight space? I can't get my normal drill with a small bit in there as my drill is too big-I know I am playing with fire trying to get those bolts out....but I am kinda sick of this stupid car.

 

Thanks @jawilli6
So, got the two sheared bolts out using a reversal bit or whatever it was called, used my impact driver because its way smaller profile, got in there. So, went to auto parts store and they had the two bolts I needed.

So, it's all bolted up now, just need to put that axle back in-what kind of grease goes on those splines, sounds like google is telling me maybe NOT to grease the splines?



Thanks

 

Oh wow, you were productive this evening. 10 pm now in Michigan. From your 1 step previous post I was going to recommend a 90-degree angle drill and extractor bits, but you did that already. Grease on spline side, my fiend for specific technical do-it-rightness I'm not your guy. Assuming you are referring to the wheel bearing side splines on the half shaft, I personally have used high temp brake grease, one time oil. A lot of times those splines are rusty, note how there isn't a boot and seal around it, I think maybe that indicates close counts.

 

Whoops I meant to say that an auto parts store should have an appropriate quality lithium grease, that is what I'd use if I had a choice and didn't have to have it back together for work in 6 hrs. Which is usually how it is for me and indicates the kind of mechanic I am, and I don't want to lead you astray.

As an aside, I am well into being jaded against these vehicles. I LOVE mine until it's peeing oil all over, or loses its' mind over some minor electrical bug. I've had a bit too much time on these forums in the last year...indeed I even think more than is welcome lately.

Good luck on you!

 

Darnit, and again.... That question mark bolt, on mine, I think that looks like the hole that would line up with the transfer case if it was an ALL4 model.

 

Ahh that makes sense, as its clearly for something but looks like its never had bolts in it-so its a universal bracket for 2wd and 4wd models is the assumption.

In that video I posted, the tech showed my belt has some cracks in it, and the pulley has some cracks-I'd be wise to replace that belt and pulley wheel while I have the car up on jacks and wheel off aye? easy job? (easy for a mini anyway, like, I don't have to remove the whole front end like for other jobs on this car?).

 

Think this is the way to replace the water pump pulley and the serpentine belt?
I usually buy from AZautohaus and Rockauto, They have GATES and Bilstein belts and pulley, neither is OEM, do I need to worry about OEM on this? (I mean, I wouldnt buy from amazon or something haha).

 

The only belt is the serpentine belt, you are correct. I've used Gates and Dayco brands on my mini without problems.

Pulley wheel, assume you're referring to the water pump pulley. I've not done that, but I do know removing the friction wheel assembly is about impossible on my car without being able to raise/lower the motor in the car. Maybe that thing doesn't need to be removed to get the water pump pulley off, I do not know. Surely, you don't want to lose that wheel and overheat the engine though.

 

Thanks again for the comment.
I got the water pump pulley off and belt-ordered new ones today, should be here tuesday and then it will be driveable again. I do need to replace the turbo as well-but, I can do that once my kid heads back to UK for university after the holidays.

Now to store up links on how to replace the turbo! I looked before and while seemingly pretty easy of a task-its tearing the whole car apart to get to it if I recall.

 

Well you're obviously quite resourceful, and are good at leveraging Youtube videos. They were instrumental for me in taking the front clip off of mine for rebuilding my engine. It's a lot of little steps, but you'll soon see that they make sense and the engineers really did a decent job. It's a pain, sure, but it really isn't that bad. I've seen videos where people just undo the front subframe extensions, slide them forward a bit, and let the front clip hang, and replace the turbo that way. In my humble opinion, might as well just take the rest of the front apart, and swing the a/c radiator thing out of the way. Doing so gives you SO much more access to the front/exhaust side of the engine.

First thing I truly recommend is a line/hose kit by Detroit Tuned. MINI Cooper S Turbo Oil Line They have another kit that has stuff for you replace the oil filter/heat exchanger gasket at the same time because it's a common failure point, and that kit also includes the exhaust gaskets between turbo and CAT. If you've never done the gasket behind the heat exchanger/oil filter mount, the gasket MINI used just isn't great. I do suggest you order new exhaust hardware. You don't need to take your exhaust manifold off the head like I did but darn near every nut/stud was a nightmare. Just buy new gaskets and nuts.

I think somewhere recently njaremka on this forum suggested BorgWarner AirWerks and another as good replacement turbos. That dude seems to know his stuff. I went with, well maybe obviously, the turbo in my signature. It's been great to me, with the exception of the air inlet size. Had to alter the factory charge hose to fit around the larger inlet....the M7 Speed brand silicone hose fits it perfectly though. That company, JMTC, also wants you to buy a new CAT or send to them for inspection/cleaning but I was a cheapskate and didn't.

 

Thanks again.
I wanted to check the wastegate before I am certain I need a damn turbo, kinda nuts I think that a 65k miles gentle driving (not grandpa slow nor racing it and no mods) that its going out. Wish I was certain it needed it-as it still drives fine? but, between the code and the dealer service a year ago saying we needed it (there was oil somewhere? as a sign, wish I remember what service tech said, oil in the inlet pipe maybe?). Anyway, I will figure it out.

But if I wanted to check the wastegate, I assumed take that heat shield off, then those 3 bolts to the left of turbo, but, everything is still really fixed, I am guessing that pipe that goes down below is the CAT? and i'd need to remove that pipe to see the wastegate? and hell, even if the wastegate was clicky and bad, thats a sure sign as well I need a new turbo aye?

***EDIT, just saw on youtube that wastegate arm is below the turbo, mine rattles really bad when I give it a wiggle, according to some of these vids thats another sign the turbo is jacked.

 

That link to the turbo oil line, looks like it's missing one of the lines no? isnt there a braided line as well, for 3 total (That hard aluminum one, the rubber/plastic one, and a braided one?)
And is this the other kit you're talking about? HERE
This is a similar kit no? but with a braided line

The oil filter gasket-are you saying replace it while im doing the turbo? as in, I don't wanna have to take all of this apart again?

And what do you mean exhaust hardware?

Most vids ive seen looke like they remove that 4-6 bolt manifold thing, in order to get to the 4 bolts that connect the manifold to the turbo, kinda looks mandatory to remove manifold-and if I did, there is a gasket there I should replace?

 

I'd want to check it out before spending the money also. In my case the wastegate actuator was failing to pull the wastegate closed, and the wastegate flap itself was pretty worn out. The wastegate actuator is on the lower right hand of the turbo, you'll see a single black vacuum hose plugged into it. At x in-hg of vacuum, the wastegate should be firmly shut. I don't remember that x value.

I think you can pull the O2 sensor and feed a borescope to look at the wastegate, maybe. If that doesn't work, yes that pipe that gets bigger running down the front of the engine that bolts to the turbo is the cat/downpipe. Both it and it's heat shields I think need to come off to look at the wastegate with your eyes. This is where people will use the frame extensions under the car to pull the bumper/etc a bit forward to get room for the downpipe and heat shield bolts. There may be better ways I'm unaware of. But the car will drive fine with the turbo not working, if it's just not worth the money.

Cars without what is called an oil catch can installed between the PCV and air intake hose/turbo inlet allow oil vapor into the inlet hose. This oil vapor cools and becomes liquid oil, now oil vapor and oil are being fed into the turbo. It's bad for the turbo, and it's bad for sludge buildup on the intake valves.

 

I don't think Detroit Tuned advertises their turbo line kit to be a full turbo replacement kit. It's just high quality lines for the oil. The oil feed like gets hot and cokes up and can starve the turbo of oil, very bad. The first link you used to ecstuning looks like a nice kit, but notice the oil feed line is a rigid steel pipe, the kind that can foul and stop feeding oil. DT's kit, the second link you posted, notice the skinny hose with fittings crimped on each end, that is a line inside of steel mesh, supposedly much better at preventing that line getting hot and coking, also flexible for easier installation. The other big hose looking thing in both kids is the oil return line back into the block, I'm not sure that one matters as much. If you got the kit from ECS instead of dt, it'd probably be fine. I don't know how common that oil feed line failing is, I just know I've read about it on here a number of times.

What did I mean by exhaust hardware? Pretty much everything included in the link you had to ECS. It has the exhaust manifold gasket, if needed, and importantly it includes the copper nuts and exhaust gaskets (the triangular metal plates). As well as new banjo bolts and crush washers for the lines.
When I did my turbo, several of those copper nuts were seized onto studs, studs stuck needing drilled out, lots of headaches. So having stock on both the mounting studs and copper nuts saved me time placing more orders and waiting for them to arrive. At that point, I was buying individual studs and nuts from ecstuning. I think the manual I was using had me removed the exhaust manifold and turbo as a whole unit, and remove the turbo from exhaust manifold on a bench. Might not have to do it that way if you're clever, my manifold needed to come off anyway.

Oil filter gasket, I'm not telling you what to do mate, just suggestions. The gaskets they used behind that heat exchanger/oil filter mount on the block are a square face seal that begins to curl with heat cycling, eventually no longer using the full face of the seal, instead just a small contact patch at a radius. It's a common failure point. I had a shop take care of this leak for me when it happened, and it wasn't terribly expensive, I don't believe they had to remove the turbo/down pipe but I could be wrong. So, wait that one out if you wish. You're right that 65k isn't a lot of miles for having to do all this. Maybe that means you have another 50k before this seal we're discussing begins to leak, one cannot know.

EDIT: I'm sure Detroit Tuned or ECS wouldn't mind you calling asking why one kit or hoses/lines versus another. I realize my advice to this point has just been spend more spend more spend more, not my goal. I drove without the turbo working for months with error code 2C58, other than reduced power without the turbo, it drove fine and I don't know of any harm in leaving the turbo in a non-functioning state.

 

Super helpful intel here, really appreciate it.
Going to decide on if im ordering a damn turbo today or not. A really nice guy from JMTCperformance sent me a great email with some options and things to consider as well.
I think I am understanding more of this thanks to your replies.
I put an ask into chatGPT, the answer was so comically wrong on the steps involved hahaha.

As for the oil filter gasket, I have had a oil leak, intermittently over the last 2 yrs and I say, like 2 times noticed little drops, but it's stopped and I gotta imagine its from that gasket? hard to see though. If one were to never replace that gasket you would have leaks on garage floor and have to put in oil to replace if it got bad, right?

I think i've exhausted the questions! Thanks again

 

One more-what is this pipes technical term? and what is the name of the bigger snorkel that it is connected to (the big one that goes from MAF to Turbo)

 

That's the one with the same stuff above just has a braided line. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...11652444367kt/ and


https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/NM.498858/ =


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1652444367kt1/


Vent pipe

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11157607779/


Is this one:

 

Hella confused now, that pipe is same as this one:
(its in the kit you referenced)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/11658617069/
https://assets.ecstuning.com/product...4542_x450.webp
They have different mountings, like that little aluminum tab mount thing?

 

Hello,

Edit above to make more sense.

 

Thanks, I get it now.