Having an issue with my mini error code 2C58 & 2C84. I’ve been to two different mechanic no one can figure out the issue. The car is loosing boost as a result going into limp mode.
We have changed
Vanos Soleniod,
turbo,
boost soleniod,
engine service with spark plugs and coils replacement
Map and MAF sensor
high pressure fuel pump as it was going bad. Checked the timing belt looked fine,
did a smoke test.

the car had two other codes that’s why some of the above parts was changed.




At this point we are drawing blank before removing the computer to get check trying to see what else could cause this.

any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

Were you able to
figure this out? I am having the same issue.

 

unfortunately no my car is still down only thing I haven’t done as take out the computer. I’m going to do that this weekend.

 

When you say 'timing chain looked fine' are you saying you used the timing chain tools and put the cam locks on to make sure everything is lined up. My 16 started to throw codes when the chain was finally falling out of timing which would then put it into low power limp mode.

 

HI we ended replacing the timing chain aswell

 

My most recent current issue my Mini Cooper involved the turbo wastegate being out of adjustment have you taken a look into whether or not you have play in the rod that with the from the vacuum that adjusts the wastegate.
I might add if this is your problem be very careful prior to adjusting it due to the fact that if you punch it trying to get on the freeway or something similar and the waste just happens to cover enough of the opening but then the back pressure pushes it open you will blow the wastegate and damage it to where it has to be replaced and possibly blow the turbo. In addition I had another issue the complicated it I was dumping oil into my cat because the car had been overfilled with oil buy a used car dealer who was unaware of and did not know how to check the oil properly
​​​​​​one of the big indicators that you've overfilled the oil is you will find oil residue in the mouth of the intake to the turbo and a couple of the upper tubes that come off of the valve cover it will be slight but it will be there this is not good this is an indication there's no refilled I am not positive that the overfill exasperated the problem with the wastegate already being out of adjustment but I did have an explosion inside of the turbo they're related to the oil which have been pushing through in many places including it in my exhaust on manifold on the two cylinders closest to the back side of the motor where the turbos mounted located best of luck to you I had to take mine apart out in the desert and put it back together ordering parts from Amazon took 9 days due to delays by Amazon hope things go well for you

 

With 2C58, a common solution is to replace the diverter valve on the turbo. This did not work for me. As JinxMiniCopS mentions, for me it was the waste gate actuator. Some folks have been lucky and the actuator was ok but the linkage needed adjustment. I don't know how this adjustment can be safely performed without creating too much boost. In my case, I replaced the entire turbo. 2C84, while I'm not certain, would logically seem to follow with 2C58, when you get a solution probably both codes will disappear.

 

Hello I need help please. I have a crank no start on this mini Cooper countryman 2014. I replaced the oxygen sensors and tried cleaning the camshaft sensor in the crankshaft sensor and I haven't been able to get it started since. The code reader reads that it's oxygen sensor circuit malfunction as well as crankshaft circuit malfunction and camshaft sensor circuit malfunction. I'll post the codes. Also it reads as a misfire but I believe that's just a symptom of the main issue. I have used a multimeter to test all the fuses in the engine bay and the picture that I'm going to post I replaced the fuses so the fuses are good so it's the circuit that is malfunctioning and I'm curious what this could be. Is it a relay like the fuel pump relay? I'm unsure of how to proceed. But I have power it seems like I have spark but it seems like I'm not getting fuel or I'm not sure. The tachometer moves when I try to start it. The wiring on the camshaft sensors and the crankshaft sensor as well as the oxygen sensor is a little hokey. Basically just looking for direction. I was trying to locate a wire diagram so I could trace the wires and see where the issue could be but I didn't want to get into the wires unless I had to. If anybody knows any information on how I can proceed it would be greatly appreciated Thank you

 

Jacob,

I'm not the best on here, maybe someone smarter will come along. P0010 is related to the VANOS actuator on the intake camshaft. The VANOS actuator basically is the control and method of variable valve timing in these engines. The solenoids do go bad with some frequency. If you consider that it controls position of the camshaft, that means it has a direct effect on engine timing. One bad VANOS could be enough for the engine timing to be too far off to run, also leading to the P03xx series misfire codes. In your case, P0010, means an open circuit, like a cable is disconnected. I don't know if that specifically (broken electronics inside VANOS) is a common failure mode for those actuators.

P0036, P0010, and P0335 could all be independent failures, or I could believe it is a wiring/control unit issue. DME (engine control) failures aren't uncommon, nor are they super common. I've read of several cars that have an oil leak at some oil related solenoid within the oil pan area, where oil leaks out of a bushing/grommet for that wiring, and capillary action allows oil to get further and further into the wiring harness, causing harness damage or short circuits in the DME. I don't know if that would apply to your model year, nor do I know if there is a common DTC list when that would happen.

The more info you can post here, better the likelihood someone will spot something that can help. Mileage, when and how this started, anything and everything.

 

Something to easy check. I have a 2014 base that had a crank no start condition as well (intermittent). It would throw pages of unrelated codes as well and had it at the dealer as well and they couldn't find/fix the issue other than wasting tons of my money chasing unrelated codes generate and never solve the root cause. Got lucky on my own to find an intermittent issue with a DME main relay. One of the three green ones. They are the same. I swapped them around to find the issue and replaced bad one with known good relay and solved that issue. I was ready to throw the car away...