F55/F56 Brake Pads
Brake Pads
my '15 F-56 brake pads are getting close. I have replacement pads & F R wires to install. What I want to know is this : Will the little red dash light come on when the pads are beat ? I don't want rotor damage, I watch 'em like a hawk. BUT I don't want to do 'em until they're beat.
I think its like when ~20% the pads are left

Some people shot through them pretty fast. Depends on the driving style
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...es-last-2.html
Some people shot through them pretty fast. Depends on the driving style
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...es-last-2.html
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; Aug 13, 2024 at 08:26 AM.
They light up when the rotor rubs the head off and breaks the contact. No rotor damage, just need to be replaced soon.
Its a system that MINI has had since about 2003. Its just a warning system. Most euro cars have it.
Its a system that MINI has had since about 2003. Its just a warning system. Most euro cars have it.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Bein' old man I don't do it myself anymore & they told me at Mini they were rubbin' but I see wear to go through. they're only 5 miles away but.....I'll get it done when it needs it. I bought '15 Signature few years back, previous owner put JCW brakes all the way around (I figure about 35K, I got 49K on) I'm watchin' but I wanna see a red light (w/o rotor damage)
You can see from the pic ECS posted, the sensor is hit way before you get close to the backing plate of the pad. Depending on driving style, I would have to feel you have hundreds, upon hundreds of miles before you would make it through the entire pad material. Don't forget that most rotors these days won't even get one turning out of them, they are virtually just as disposable as the pads. I know my OEM rotors were below minimum limit when I replaced the OEM pads. My current Power Stop pads are much more 'rotor friendly' and so my replacement rotors are now on their second set of PS pads, but I don't think they will survive to see the next set of pads based on some recent measurements. It all depends on how you drive, so YMMV.
Mileage is a useless parameter for brakes, since they are only used while slowing down. Technically, you "could" drive coast to coast without ever touching the brakes, which would cause them to last the life of the car. Alternately, you could drive in stop-n-go traffic every day, and the brakes could last only 5000 miles. Either you rely on the brake sensor system, and at least check them when the service reminder goes off, or you check them every 5-10k miles and replace when worn down within a few millimeters of the backing plate.
Also, replacing rotors at the same time as the pads is cheap insurance, especially when you do the brakes yourself. Get the least expensive, solid, fully rust coated rotors that will fit, paired with a good set of pads. Done.
Also, replacing rotors at the same time as the pads is cheap insurance, especially when you do the brakes yourself. Get the least expensive, solid, fully rust coated rotors that will fit, paired with a good set of pads. Done.
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I check mine often enough that I tie up the front sensor as it’s one less job to do
when I change the discs but only cos “road car”
the track R59 has the sensors left in as a 1/4 of pad can disappear in an afternoon session on track , the thinner the material gets the less it can handle the heat, the quicker it degrades, so it’s not linear if that makes sense.
when I change the discs but only cos “road car”
the track R59 has the sensors left in as a 1/4 of pad can disappear in an afternoon session on track , the thinner the material gets the less it can handle the heat, the quicker it degrades, so it’s not linear if that makes sense.
I use tranny alot & am easy on brakes, so I nurse 'em. Got a set of EBC Ceramic pads & Fr. & R sensor wires ready to rip. The Waiting Is The Hardest Part ! I just wanna make sure they (the wear sensors) work ! Looks like I've got enough meat before I hit backing plates regardless of what Mini says. I got flashlight & 2 eyes. I'm guessing rotors aren't like old days when you could turn'em a time or 2.
Last edited by Stu-mon; Aug 15, 2024 at 05:24 AM.
I use tranny alot & am easy on brakes, so I nurse 'em. Got a set of EBC Ceramic pads & Fr. & R sensor wires ready to rip. The Waiting Is The Hardest Part ! I just wanna make sure they (the wear sensors) work ! Looks like I've got enough meat before I hit backing plates regardless of what Mini says. I got flashlight & 2 eyes. I'm guessing rotors aren't like old days when you could turn'em a time or 2.
The previous owner (JCW brakes) obviously only did Fr. pads one time R. pads not at all. So, I'm lookin' to do same thing (one axle at a time) I got meat on front, I got rear gettin' close. Mini wants $250/axle, so I'm gonna wear 'em out with no rotor damage. My driving style = I got plenty o' time. I'm not the rabid driver I was when I was a kid . I just turned 69 ! With Age Comes Wisdom !
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